Not to hi-jack my own thread but how do the TangBand W6-1139 series of sub-woofers compare, compliment etc. to the CSS SDX7's ? One of the many options I like about the SDX7 is its wider range that can relieve even more bass duty from a fullrange if necessary with a higher crossover. I've searched for this info using "1139" and have found a few posts but only one enclosure, the "BoogieMan". It looks like Cal has built a tapped horn using the 1139's but I have not found any pictures or plans.
As these are 4ohm drivers I would have to run a series/parallel combination for a net of 4ohms. Does this change sealed box parameters? Would a pair of 1139's and a pair of SDX7's in a sealed rectangualar box both side firing work well together? I'm envisioning the box on its end directly behind the Aiko's with the SDX7's up near the fullranger and the 1139's near the floor. Is this just over complicating things?
As these are 4ohm drivers I would have to run a series/parallel combination for a net of 4ohms. Does this change sealed box parameters? Would a pair of 1139's and a pair of SDX7's in a sealed rectangualar box both side firing work well together? I'm envisioning the box on its end directly behind the Aiko's with the SDX7's up near the fullranger and the 1139's near the floor. Is this just over complicating things?
the W6-1139 is like you said purely a subwoofer driver... if I manage to dig it out from the pile of paper, I should have some measurements from the same magazine for both (but don't hold yr breath), maybe that cab shed some light
btw: why haven't I seen the word "bass reflex" in this thread? 12 liter @34Hz...
btw: why haven't I seen the word "bass reflex" in this thread? 12 liter @34Hz...
WRT bracing and spacing between the rear of the drivers in a push-push set up.
How close can the back of the magnets be to each other? If the box I build is 9" wide that will give me about 1.5" between the back of the drivers, is that enough?
The brace between the two drivers just needs to be offset so it is not centered on the drivers but still contact the back solidly and of course not cover up any of the vents.
My plan is to build a sealed box 9" x 10.5" x 26.5" with the speakers mounted on the 10.5" sides, push-push. This gives me the option of putting it on end and positioning the woofer up close to the fullrange or flipping it and positioning it near the floor.
How close can the back of the magnets be to each other? If the box I build is 9" wide that will give me about 1.5" between the back of the drivers, is that enough?
The brace between the two drivers just needs to be offset so it is not centered on the drivers but still contact the back solidly and of course not cover up any of the vents.
My plan is to build a sealed box 9" x 10.5" x 26.5" with the speakers mounted on the 10.5" sides, push-push. This gives me the option of putting it on end and positioning the woofer up close to the fullrange or flipping it and positioning it near the floor.
901Fixer said:
I think our push-push SDX7 are about a 1/2"apart... it is really close. The vent in the SDX7 is a ring of small holes around the periphery of the magnet. Just glue an appropriatly aized cyclinder at the centre of back of one of the magnets. You could even rig the box to make the spacing the right thickness to use a big aluminum, brassm or stainless nut (or similar)
dave
Instead of using threaded metal rods I was thinking what about dowels running between the mounting holes on the push-push drivers. These dowels would either be recessed a bit and glued in or just be held with a screw thru the driver, baffle and into the end of the dowel. This would still provide push-pull resistance but not use metal.
If a mounting hole is near the edge of the baffle and close to the adjacent panel is it still advantageous to even use the threaded rod?
If a mounting hole is near the edge of the baffle and close to the adjacent panel is it still advantageous to even use the threaded rod?
EDIT:
I had to change my original posts because I was reading it wrong. Use the box joints to determine if you are forcing the "bulge" or the "opposite of bulge" in the right direction. IE: don't fight against a glue joint. Usually you will want to suck it inward for cabinet bracing but for drivers it's easier to force it outward by placing something slighly too large between them. This also requires a strong mounting system (ie; something more than screws) or inside mounting of the drivers.
I had to change my original posts because I was reading it wrong. Use the box joints to determine if you are forcing the "bulge" or the "opposite of bulge" in the right direction. IE: don't fight against a glue joint. Usually you will want to suck it inward for cabinet bracing but for drivers it's easier to force it outward by placing something slighly too large between them. This also requires a strong mounting system (ie; something more than screws) or inside mounting of the drivers.
Cal Weldon said:
Where do you cross the Shadow over? It just occured to me that the height of the Extremis/SDX7 in the Shadow is up near the mid/FR area like in the Tysen's which makes me think they may have more useful range than that of a pure subwoofer. The mouth of the horn is floor level which is advantageous in a sub so was this the goal all along?
How important is the location of the drivers in the shadow, can they be higher up say in the front upper corner of the compression chamber or will that change things?
It looks like the Suzy Chang has the same displacement compression chamber as the G Chang but with a larger horn. I considered the Vampyr dimensions as they should work with some Tang Band W4-1320 drivers.
My idea for using a half Vampyr was to make the CC width and depth the same as the shadow which will make the height around 7". Keep the horn the same 45 degrees since it will be more than twice as wide as the original. The mouth will be larger as the depth is greater. All vent area will be kept equal overall as well.
I'm sure there is something I'm not factoring in.
It looks like the Suzy Chang has the same displacement compression chamber as the G Chang but with a larger horn. I considered the Vampyr dimensions as they should work with some Tang Band W4-1320 drivers.
My idea for using a half Vampyr was to make the CC width and depth the same as the shadow which will make the height around 7". Keep the horn the same 45 degrees since it will be more than twice as wide as the original. The mouth will be larger as the depth is greater. All vent area will be kept equal overall as well.
I'm sure there is something I'm not factoring in.
901Fixer said:
It does make a difference but the intention was to allow differeing driver configurations as in Calhoun.
Different driver, completely changing the box for the mid-tweeter, you need to design an appropriate mid-tweeter box (it won't be a Suzy or a half-Vampyr). A BVR is not really suitable for a midtweeter... you should be looking at a sealed, aperiodic or midTL box.
dave
Ok, so the range of the SDX7 covers the mid-bass and only needs to be matched with a mid-tweeter which doesn't need a horn or much more than a sealed box for that kinda duty.
Is the SDX7 in Tysen sealed or is there a vent somewhere? Would two SDX7's be too much in a Tysen-esque design?
I wonder where Cal crosses his Shadow over with the Calhoun? I thought the mid-bass needed to be real close to the mid-tweeter or does it just need to be at the same height?
Is the SDX7 in Tysen sealed or is there a vent somewhere? Would two SDX7's be too much in a Tysen-esque design?
I wonder where Cal crosses his Shadow over with the Calhoun? I thought the mid-bass needed to be real close to the mid-tweeter or does it just need to be at the same height?
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