I have a 12" sub in a sealed box. I built the box to specification for the sub. I thought that sealed boxes were supposed to make the bass have a "punch" to it instead of a "boom". I'm not a big fan of the boominess that subs can produce. Anyways, I stuffed the box with polyfil and the boominess is still there. Is there a way to get rid of the boominess without replacing the box? The box is in my trunk facing towards the back, not towards the front. Someone told me that if I turned the box to face the inside of the car it would help out. Any suggestions?
Put your main speakers in the trunk as well and then crawl in there yourself.
The sub is in the trunk. . . I can't stop laughing.
The sub is in the trunk. . . I can't stop laughing.
Bill Fitzpatrick said:
do u got a better suggestion?
memito said:
try to play with the LPF on the sub- amplifier
Not really; adding fill can only make the apparant volume of the box increase by 10% or so, which isn't enough to make a huge difference.
The boominess is caused by any or all of the following:
you have your tone controls set poorly
you have your filters set poorly
the sub is just a rubbish design
The boominess is caused by any or all of the following:
you have your tone controls set poorly
you have your filters set poorly
the sub is just a rubbish design
another could be the bass boost on most car amps. if you add some boost. there would be some boominess since it is usually around 40Hz.
I think your crossover is set to around 50Hz or below. increase it to LP at 100Hz or so. which lets the tight bass notes go to the sub.
I think your crossover is set to around 50Hz or below. increase it to LP at 100Hz or so. which lets the tight bass notes go to the sub.
ok, this is what I have on my setup, a hifonics brutus driving a 12" jl. The Hz is at 80 and I added about 6db of gain. This amp has a remote "volume" control, which i don't know if it controls the actual volume or the gain (i've been reading that gain and volume are not the same). So what you guys are saying is that if I go from 80 to 100 on the hz and lower the gain it'll have more of a punch?
song, I made sure I tested it first with a test tone to set the hz at 80 and the gain i adjusted it by ear... then i popped in a song that has a punchy bass instead of long boomy notes and they sounded boomy
memito said:
If Qtc exceeds 1, you will get a booomy bass - also in a sealed box.
What is Qts, VAS, and free air resonance for this driver? And how big i the sealed box?
I will then explain why you have a booomy bass.
Br.
Vidar
Whilst in the main you are correct, the Q is only relevant around the resonant frequency. If the box is sufficiently small such that the resonant frequency is high and out of the passband, then it is not of importance. Some car subs with their small boxes operate in this fashion.
If the low-pass filter (Hz as the original poster calls it) is set to 80Hz and finds it boomy, pushing it up to 100Hz will only make things worse.
If the Hz control referred to by the original poster is not a low-pass filter but a bass boost control, try reducing the boost and/or the frequency.
If the low-pass filter (Hz as the original poster calls it) is set to 80Hz and finds it boomy, pushing it up to 100Hz will only make things worse.
If the Hz control referred to by the original poster is not a low-pass filter but a bass boost control, try reducing the boost and/or the frequency.
richie00boy said:
You must have a quite "petite" box in order to get the resonance out of the passband. Imagine a box at only 5 litre, the driver data is Qts 0,3, VAS 50litres, f0 30Hz. With these data you'll get a resonance at 100Hz and a Qtc = 1. How small should we make it - 1 litre? 1 litre result in a Qtc = 2 and a resonance at 200 Hz - only one octave higher.
Higher Qtc also result in a steeper roll-off downwords. The steeper roll-off, the more power is required to maintain the level down to i.a 30Hz. A Qtc=1 means 24dB/oct roll-off - calculate how much power needed at 25Hz to keep the same level as at 100 Hz. 48 dB - means 250 times more power at 25 Hz versus 100 Hz?
Br.
Vidar
I did not check the driver T/S data. You are of course right 🙂
Higher Q only affects the slope immediately after resonance. As you get further down it will ALWAYS revert to the same 12dB/oct no matter what the Q. However, the 'affected' slope can often be quite well into the passband even when used in the Under Resonance Principle as outlined in my previous post, so yes it does matter.
Higher Q only affects the slope immediately after resonance. As you get further down it will ALWAYS revert to the same 12dB/oct no matter what the Q. However, the 'affected' slope can often be quite well into the passband even when used in the Under Resonance Principle as outlined in my previous post, so yes it does matter.
Here are the specs for my sub:
Fs=25Hz
Qes=.480
Qms=7.1
Qts=.45
Vas=79.9 litres
Xmax=.65 in
IW/Im=85.9 dB SPL
Sd=77.8 in²
Re=6.75 Ohms
My box has a volume of around 1.25 ft³
Fs=25Hz
Qes=.480
Qms=7.1
Qts=.45
Vas=79.9 litres
Xmax=.65 in
IW/Im=85.9 dB SPL
Sd=77.8 in²
Re=6.75 Ohms
My box has a volume of around 1.25 ft³
Ahh, antiresonant gave me misleading parameters.
By my calculations, you have a Qtc of just over 0.8 and F3 of 40Hz. That shouldn't be particularly boomy.
Play with your tone controls and filters. Set all your headunit levels and tone to zero/flat. 80Hz should be a good starting point for sub low-pass filter. Now set your amp level so you can hear your sub OK, then add a little bass boost if necessary.
By my calculations, you have a Qtc of just over 0.8 and F3 of 40Hz. That shouldn't be particularly boomy.
Play with your tone controls and filters. Set all your headunit levels and tone to zero/flat. 80Hz should be a good starting point for sub low-pass filter. Now set your amp level so you can hear your sub OK, then add a little bass boost if necessary.
memito said:
Its sound like your subwoofer has a high Q, you will need a smaller box or less air space as it would seem like there is very little loading on the cone, just reduce the internal volume and refit the driver and check the sound again.
With music not a test tone, choose something that has natural sound and not something electronic.
Always Always have your tone controls flat, no bass boost nothing, nada, zip.
The remote gain must be plugged in! or else the amplifier will run at maximium gain and sound terrible.
You have to remember that your car adds gain as well so adding more will give a boom effect, oh boy.
The subwoofer only starts to work at 80Hz so having its crossed over higher a waste of power, as i would hope your normal drivers would be able to cross over well with your subwoofer.
Who does like boom woofers?
I know, def folk!
Paradise_Ice said:
The subwoofer only starts to work at 80Hz so having its crossed over higher a waste of power, as i would hope your normal drivers would be able to cross over well with your subwoofer.
Who does like boom woofers?
I know, def folk!
so you're saying I'm deaf?
wel,, I only have two 10's but they go boom when I need them to but they also sound real good when I listen to the right music.www.djquan.angelcities.com/ride.html
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