Hello, I have a little trouble with my XH-M190 (dual TDA 3116).
At first all was OK, but after 20-25 minutes a rythmic "BOOMP....BOOMP" (approx 1 beat per second) appeared on left channel.
I switched off the amp and, after a while (a couple of minutes), I restarted the 3116. The sound was OK for 5 minutes, then the noise reappeared...
Now the "BOOMP" is always present: it is not influenced by volume level or by input signal.
OK, it is "AUTO BOOM-DISCO MODE
Does anyone have this problem?
Thanks for all!
At first all was OK, but after 20-25 minutes a rythmic "BOOMP....BOOMP" (approx 1 beat per second) appeared on left channel.
I switched off the amp and, after a while (a couple of minutes), I restarted the 3116. The sound was OK for 5 minutes, then the noise reappeared...
Now the "BOOMP" is always present: it is not influenced by volume level or by input signal.
OK, it is "AUTO BOOM-DISCO MODE
Does anyone have this problem?
Thanks for all!
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I had a similar problem with one of my boards - only mine was more like "clicking" in one channel.
I solved it by carefully resoldering all soldering points on the bottom - must have been some cold solder joint somewhere.
So, resoldering every point on the bottom of the board might be one thing to try - can't hurt, anyway...
I solved it by carefully resoldering all soldering points on the bottom - must have been some cold solder joint somewhere.
So, resoldering every point on the bottom of the board might be one thing to try - can't hurt, anyway...
Thanks, den_hr. I tried resoldering the bottom points and left channel SMD components (caps & resistors) without results... I think it is a capacitor failure (the rhytmic beat seems suggest it). I have 2x 684j100 caps for channel but they should be ok....
At last I could use it as a mono amp, after exluding left channel.
At last I could use it as a mono amp, after exluding left channel.
This is the link for ( poor quality ) video about my amp. Changing volume has no effect on noise volume.
https://youtu.be/hG5FOB_29LE
) video about my amp. Changing volume has no effect on noise volume.https://youtu.be/hG5FOB_29LE
That's definitely NOT a thermal shutdown! That's positive DC on the output, you can clearly see the membrane moving outwards and staying there until the protection switches it off and then it cycles again. That is extreme mechanical tension for the driver btw, dont repeat that, use a cheap spare for test purposes. (Well, still better than the cone going inwards though)
Hello, I checked heat sink (and added thermal paste too) but no problem seems linked to overheating. The noise starts immediately, and all the system seems cool.
I tried using a different power source (car battery) without any difference.
I used a cheap PC speaker at first but the problem was not so evident for my video, so I used a bigger one (for a few seconds!).
During the BOOM I notice that power supply voltage drops down.
If I can access an oscilloscope, what do I have to check?
I tried using a different power source (car battery) without any difference.
I used a cheap PC speaker at first but the problem was not so evident for my video, so I used a bigger one (for a few seconds!).
During the BOOM I notice that power supply voltage drops down.
If I can access an oscilloscope, what do I have to check?
There is no additional information you can get with an oscilloscope, it is already clear it's fully driven DC on the output. That can be caused by a fault in the ramp generator, PWM logic, gate driver or the output transistors. Since all these are internal components of the TPA3116, you have to swap it.
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Does your led stop burning a little quick ? At switch off?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlOtMAq_fC0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlOtMAq_fC0
I have exactly the same with a Sanwu TPA 3118 PBTL board when connected to a preamplifier.
The Sanwu Board itselfs works fine, without a preamplifier there is not this thumping or oscilattion. I can play music when I use a normal source like a cable from a smartphone or a small bluetooth audio connector. (although with a liitle noise due to unschielded cables and high efficiency (>96db) loudspeaker and due to the high gain of the amplifier itself
When I connect the preamplifier (NE5532 plus PT2399 reverb) immediately I get this thumping. I purchased a second preamplifier but exactly the same problem and the same thumping as you have with the same frequency.
I do not see a preamplifier in the video. Is there one? Is there a preamplifier chip like a NE 5532 on your amplifier board?
If yes then this could be the source.
I have not solved my problem yet so I do not know how to solve it (yet) but the problem seems identical or at least sounds exactly the same. Still searching for a solution but it might be beyond my capabilities. I wil purchase another pre-amp and try that.
The Sanwu Board itselfs works fine, without a preamplifier there is not this thumping or oscilattion. I can play music when I use a normal source like a cable from a smartphone or a small bluetooth audio connector. (although with a liitle noise due to unschielded cables and high efficiency (>96db) loudspeaker and due to the high gain of the amplifier itself
When I connect the preamplifier (NE5532 plus PT2399 reverb) immediately I get this thumping. I purchased a second preamplifier but exactly the same problem and the same thumping as you have with the same frequency.
I do not see a preamplifier in the video. Is there one? Is there a preamplifier chip like a NE 5532 on your amplifier board?
If yes then this could be the source.
I have not solved my problem yet so I do not know how to solve it (yet) but the problem seems identical or at least sounds exactly the same. Still searching for a solution but it might be beyond my capabilities. I wil purchase another pre-amp and try that.
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Both 680nF's left side were removed?
Problem with smd is you (probably) damage the parts removing them.
1nF's that had fault sounded here more like very loud tick tick, but different speakers obviously, woofer movement completely to the max I recall.
For bootstrap caps I believe chip tries to restart, so that would mean no sound from speakers, but not 100% certain thinking longer about the times I had those failures. PVCC failure on your ampboard will most likely cause both chips/channels to behave the same??? or would c16 be able to just affect left chip, maybe.
Some boards have bad soldered chips I saw on YouTube, but can that cause pop while music is playing, I don't know, pressing/pushing on heatsink/chip might make contact then ?
Problem with smd is you (probably) damage the parts removing them.
1nF's that had fault sounded here more like very loud tick tick, but different speakers obviously, woofer movement completely to the max I recall.
For bootstrap caps I believe chip tries to restart, so that would mean no sound from speakers, but not 100% certain thinking longer about the times I had those failures. PVCC failure on your ampboard will most likely cause both chips/channels to behave the same??? or would c16 be able to just affect left chip, maybe.
Some boards have bad soldered chips I saw on YouTube, but can that cause pop while music is playing, I don't know, pressing/pushing on heatsink/chip might make contact then ?
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