So now you test or replace the fuses. Multimeter time! Unplug as necessary to stay safe.
You might get lucky and find the fuses blew because of a mains surge or something. A visual inspection can sometimes help too. Sometimes it's obvious from a scorch mark or something.
Repaired a Dynaudio BM5A active monitor.
Fault reported:-
Dead, blows mains fuse.
Confirmed fault reported.
Removed power module for inspection/repairs.
Confirmed faulty power transformer, replacement required. Fitted new transformer (type 2x18v/80VA) and T1A25 fuse. Checked OK.
Concluded audio and function tests OK.
Refitted module into cabinet for final test.
You might get lucky and find the fuses blew because of a mains surge or something. A visual inspection can sometimes help too. Sometimes it's obvious from a scorch mark or something.
Only because I am trying to suggest to you the fix may be easy. Or may involve only a few affordable components. You may know someone who is quite talented at electrical fault finding if all this is unfamiliar to you.
I always chat with burglar alarm engineers and such. I learn lots, even about how to crimp wires correctly. And about test equipment. Because it helps to have a few tools and a $5 electrical multimeter. 🙂
I always chat with burglar alarm engineers and such. I learn lots, even about how to crimp wires correctly. And about test equipment. Because it helps to have a few tools and a $5 electrical multimeter. 🙂
You want to measure the response that is at each speaker terminal now, so you can duplicate this in a new crossover. This is the same passive or active.
Or you can forget that and measure with a microphone and start on a new one, but this is not really making it easier for you.
Or you can guess at some component values and experiment to get something that works. The results might be OK in time.
Or you can forget that and measure with a microphone and start on a new one, but this is not really making it easier for you.
Or you can guess at some component values and experiment to get something that works. The results might be OK in time.
as_audio, why not put your location in your post or sig or details. This forum is amok with competent electronic engineers with full test benches. People in second-hand HiFi shops are often good at fixing stuff too.
Just got to find them if Electronics is not your bag. I think it's going to be easier than converting to passive or digital filters or something.
Just got to find them if Electronics is not your bag. I think it's going to be easier than converting to passive or digital filters or something.
We can not be sure any more what OP really wants and
where he is, but he mentions an US$ repair price. I can
not be of any practical help then.
Again I can not understand why notable active monitors
should be converted to passive if only one amp side is not
working, which essentially may be a simple and / or cheap
repair (if not in the distributors workshop).
With all due respect, it is not "the same passive or active".
where he is, but he mentions an US$ repair price. I can
not be of any practical help then.
Again I can not understand why notable active monitors
should be converted to passive if only one amp side is not
working, which essentially may be a simple and / or cheap
repair (if not in the distributors workshop).
With all due respect, it is not "the same passive or active".
Forgive the in-joke, aCuria. 95% of our threads end in oblivion. And some folks here know what they are talking about. 😀
And often we might as well have a crystal ball to guess what people are looking at. 😡
Original Poster usually promises to get back with the results. Never do. Whatever the problem was, we never find out. It's always like a mystery book with the last chapter missing. 😕
And often we might as well have a crystal ball to guess what people are looking at. 😡
Original Poster usually promises to get back with the results. Never do. Whatever the problem was, we never find out. It's always like a mystery book with the last chapter missing. 😕
Do you think the transfer function is only important for one and not the other?With all due respect, it is not "the same passive or active".
Using an active solution you have means to modify response etc
which are not possible with a passive crossover - sure you know?
which are not possible with a passive crossover - sure you know?
Simple case, some additional filtering or equalization, quite common in active amps ..
I can not do it passively (in the same efficient way). If you can, it deserves a
dedicated thread. However, I have no intention to get in conflict with a moderator.
I can not do it passively (in the same efficient way). If you can, it deserves a
dedicated thread. However, I have no intention to get in conflict with a moderator.
We can talk as members, I don't have my hat on.. but yes, I have learned to do all I need with either passive or active or other. It is important to know exactly what to do though.
Yes, and in this context will you claim it is possible/useful to convert the item to passive, even probably incorporating a "rumble" filter, responce equalization and everything ?
Possible? Yes. Useful? This is the difficult question, it depends on the patience and/or the skill of the person doing it.
@ OP, replacing the board(s) is obviously a good option, if money is not an issue. Maybe DIY has something to do with it? A person also has to appreciate that electronics and acoustics can be easy or difficult depending on what you do.
@ OP, replacing the board(s) is obviously a good option, if money is not an issue. Maybe DIY has something to do with it? A person also has to appreciate that electronics and acoustics can be easy or difficult depending on what you do.
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