An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The filter caps look like this.
Should I just change them and try my luck? Or is there something else I should consider? Is this just a classic case of capacitor plague? Maybe these caps were insufficient in the first place?
E: The blown caps are branded HONSING.
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Nice bombs.
Replace them but check if the rectifier bridge is OK. I mean there should be two DC voltages after the bridge.
22.5*1.4=31V - I think that's why they exploded.
Use 50 V or more capacitors /105 degrees rated.
If it powers OK check for DC on speaker outputs before attaching the speakers.
Replace them but check if the rectifier bridge is OK. I mean there should be two DC voltages after the bridge.
22.5*1.4=31V - I think that's why they exploded.
Use 50 V or more capacitors /105 degrees rated.
If it powers OK check for DC on speaker outputs before attaching the speakers.
Thanks for the advice! I'll check the bridge and the speaker outputs.
There's limited space on the circuit board for the two caps.
Two of these Panasonic 4700uF/35V from the local supplier would fit without too much hassle. They are the same value as the original but a more reputable brand.
Anyway, there's plenty of space inside the chassis. Maybe I could arrange some bigger caps in there somehow. That way I could have many years of carefree bass practicing.
There's limited space on the circuit board for the two caps.
Two of these Panasonic 4700uF/35V from the local supplier would fit without too much hassle. They are the same value as the original but a more reputable brand.
Anyway, there's plenty of space inside the chassis. Maybe I could arrange some bigger caps in there somehow. That way I could have many years of carefree bass practicing.
I have some quite old solid state gear and I have never seen a capacitor blow out like that.
The worst I have experienced was on a ~30years radio tuner that became hummy/buzzy.
The smoothing cap was dying and needed replacement. It was/is located next to a very hot 3pin regulator.
The worst I have experienced was on a ~30years radio tuner that became hummy/buzzy.
The smoothing cap was dying and needed replacement. It was/is located next to a very hot 3pin regulator.
Maybe the 35V rating was Chinese volts? A genuine 35V cap should cope with 31V. Maybe the ripple current rating was in Chinese amps too?
Putting a PSU electrolytic right next to a heatsink is a bad idea. It will get hot, dry out and increase ESR. That will raise ripple current loss and cause more heating. Bang!
Putting a PSU electrolytic right next to a heatsink is a bad idea. It will get hot, dry out and increase ESR. That will raise ripple current loss and cause more heating. Bang!
Ok, so the amp is working now! Sounds mighty fine. Thanks for the help! I put some Nichicon 4700uF / 50V caps in there well away from the heat sink.
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