https://solen.ca//storage/media/rvZfOWvfehFHqm7HJLFgNQXhA2q2ALpvaNcsFjUS.pdf
Found these guys a little while ago and was thinking about using a couple of them for a build. Was thinking of throwing these guys on the tweeter amp of a fusion amplifier so I could use a main channel amp (limiting power of course) for the actual tweeter. The manufacturer's website ( http://www.bliesma.de/FAQ.html ) recommends using DC blocking caps. Would adding them change any electrical properties (impedance curve, signal loss, etc.)? If so, would they cause any problems with either the speaker or amp? Also, do I need one of those fancy audio caps or can I just throw on a vishay/dale film cap and call it a day? lol
Found these guys a little while ago and was thinking about using a couple of them for a build. Was thinking of throwing these guys on the tweeter amp of a fusion amplifier so I could use a main channel amp (limiting power of course) for the actual tweeter. The manufacturer's website ( http://www.bliesma.de/FAQ.html ) recommends using DC blocking caps. Would adding them change any electrical properties (impedance curve, signal loss, etc.)? If so, would they cause any problems with either the speaker or amp? Also, do I need one of those fancy audio caps or can I just throw on a vishay/dale film cap and call it a day? lol
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Well, you need to protect it from over excursion, and the resonant frequency -400 Hz- is where the trouble starts. Also to protect from sudden DC voltage, and that is accomplished by any capacitor.
Which size?
Let:s say that you need half voltage- 6 dB at Fs, so you need a 47 μF capacitor
Which size?
Let:s say that you need half voltage- 6 dB at Fs, so you need a 47 μF capacitor
It's a midrange. Will you use a passive crossover (at least a 2nd order high-pass Butterworth filter, 400 Hz)? If so, it will require a series cap so your question is not relevant - problem will be taken care of by the crossover itself. If active cover with following direct amplification I suggest that if a cap is wanted, that is a bit bigger so not to interfere with the "real" x-over. Say one that cuts at 250 Hz - assuming that you will use it from 500 Hz... so for 8 ohm, 200 Hz -> 100uF. (https://www.v-cap.com/speaker-crossover-calculator.php) Yes, so your idea about a vishay/dale film cap is not going to fly at all.
You spent a lot on a driver so you might want to go for 6pcs of these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS4F053307H00KSSD?qs=dTJS0cRn7ohLsJpDOBunWw==&_gl=1*17ct2cm*_ga*dW5kZWZpbmVk*_ga_15W4STQT4T*dW5kZWZpbmVk*_ga_1KQLCYKRX3*dW5kZWZpbmVk
Good luck!
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You spent a lot on a driver so you might want to go for 6pcs of these: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS4F053307H00KSSD?qs=dTJS0cRn7ohLsJpDOBunWw==&_gl=1*17ct2cm*_ga*dW5kZWZpbmVk*_ga_15W4STQT4T*dW5kZWZpbmVk*_ga_1KQLCYKRX3*dW5kZWZpbmVk
Good luck!
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Why would you do that? The Fusion-amp tweeter amps are specifically made for tweeter usage where the power requirements and energy content of the signals are generally low, so you should get a better result by sticking to the standard configuration.
As for the blocking cap then yes it will change the response a little, but since the expectation is that you define the final crossover via measurements then the change can be taken into account later on.
The price level of the drivers was an argument to not skimp on the caps.. I'm sorry if it offended you. Please try to come over it?
6 ohm? Not at 400 Hz it isn't.... check the prod sheet...
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56uF so at about 500hz
Nope nothing bought yet! Only drivers I have so far are the tweeters I wanna use and that was because a nice gentleman here was nice enough to sell them to me less than what I would have paid on madisound.
The idea is that I would use them in a 3 way. One of the biggest issues I've noticed when trying to match speakers for crossovers is it's relation to bass frequencies. I figured if I reduce the power necessary to drive the other speakers, I can fiddle with the bass response however I see fit. 6 may be a small number, but +6db from 100W is still 400W.
Maybe I don't fully understand what you are writing, but you seem to be confusing "power" and "gain" here? The power difference between the tweeter amp and the other channels is only relevant if you run the amps flat out (and that is not likely). The SPL put out by drivers also depend on driver sensitivity etc. so it doesn't really make a ton of sense what you write IMO.
Gain on the Hypex amps is individually adjustable for all channels, so matching sensitivity between the different channels you can do even with the drivers connected as Hypex recommends.
Gain on the Hypex amps is individually adjustable for all channels, so matching sensitivity between the different channels you can do even with the drivers connected as Hypex recommends.
Ok I should elaborate. The reason I wanted to put the bliesma on the tweeter amplifier and the tweeter on one of the regular channels is because the SNR is about 20db better than the NC100HF (the tweeter amp)(NC100HF is 106db and the NC502MP - the main channel amp - is 124db). Since the tweeter is going to be crossed over at 2500Hz I figured I would want the cleaner signal to be used for it.
With that said, after sitting on it a bit, I am reminded of a quote by Bruno Putzeys from one of his presentations:
The Road To Heaven
-Specify the performance and accept the design.
The Road To Hell
-Specify the design and accept the performance.
Maybe I'm getting too hung up on trying to fit a square peg in a round hole...
With that said, after sitting on it a bit, I am reminded of a quote by Bruno Putzeys from one of his presentations:
The Road To Heaven
-Specify the performance and accept the design.
The Road To Hell
-Specify the design and accept the performance.
Maybe I'm getting too hung up on trying to fit a square peg in a round hole...
It makes no difference to the tweeter. I say this based on the fact that regardless of the capacitor you use, large, small or none, you’ll be EQing the response to the same end result either way.
Therefore yes it will make a difference but once you account for that, and you should, it will be back to normal again.
There’s no reason you have to use a large cap 2 octaves down. You can use a small cap to create part of the filter, it will offer better protection if that’s needed.
All you do then is measure with the cap in place and cross as necessary.
Therefore yes it will make a difference but once you account for that, and you should, it will be back to normal again.
There’s no reason you have to use a large cap 2 octaves down. You can use a small cap to create part of the filter, it will offer better protection if that’s needed.
All you do then is measure with the cap in place and cross as necessary.
The reason is the noise (-24 dB under -100dB)
The ∆ noise brings doubts to the mind of the audiophile.
That would be easily eliminated by recurring to single amplifier and passive crossover.
The ∆ noise brings doubts to the mind of the audiophile.
That would be easily eliminated by recurring to single amplifier and passive crossover.
Funny enough, after I posted this, I switched drivers! Lol. I did some digging and it turns out that, while they test well, the Bliesma drivers don't stand up to purifi drivers. While their efficiency is better, they are still wanting in terms of distortion figures so I made the switch. If you wanna follow the build it's here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/project-shakespeare.414757/#post-7728593