Hello diypass,
Brass is an alloy, which consists of copper and zinc. Since we can use different proportion of both brass is not equal to...... brass.
This is good article about it:
Copper.org: Industrial: Design Guide - Conductivity of Brass
Regards
TB
Brass is an alloy, which consists of copper and zinc. Since we can use different proportion of both brass is not equal to...... brass.
This is good article about it:
Copper.org: Industrial: Design Guide - Conductivity of Brass
Regards
TB
Also, why to use inferior material? The reason why brass is being used in industry is price. Second factor is its hardness what makes easier to mill or turn in lathe machines.
Copper is soft and second point makes some problems. But, there is always way to go around. I use for the past few years binding posts made by Pomona of Tellurium copper and gold or silver plated. They are not big like ususal WBT, Cardass, Cliff ones, but for average power amps they are fine and cheap:
3770-2 Pomona Electronics | Mouser
I know Mouser is in Europe or search for Pomona. Maybe someone sells it in your country.
Copper is soft and second point makes some problems. But, there is always way to go around. I use for the past few years binding posts made by Pomona of Tellurium copper and gold or silver plated. They are not big like ususal WBT, Cardass, Cliff ones, but for average power amps they are fine and cheap:
3770-2 Pomona Electronics | Mouser
I know Mouser is in Europe or search for Pomona. Maybe someone sells it in your country.
IIRC, Jack Hidley had a stock of the Tiff binding posts in his NHT sale. They looked really nice.
That's where I got them. Loaded up my car with all that could fit. 😀
Yes, but... the bulk conductivity is not that important as long as it's reasonably in the metallic range. The resistance from the cables swamps it. The key is contact resistance, and that's where brass does great. You can use more exotic and expensive alloys, but there won't be a real performance improvement. If the mechanics are good, i.e., you can really bolt things down air-tight, you've done everything you can.
That's where I got them. Loaded up my car with all that could fit. 😀
Ah. Just read through your site about the 3.3's. Cool stuff! (Though I'm way too afraid to use an electric screwdriver around drive-units!)
WAY more interesting than any tedious nonsense about binding post materials.
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Superior Electric makes some nice, beefy gold-plated brass binding posts. The 30A rated ones look nice.
look here Home | Altoparlanti Intertechnik , they have many different binding posts for cheap, and most of them are made of gold plated brass.
look here Home | Altoparlanti Intertechnik , they have many different binding posts for cheap, and most of them are made of gold plated brass.
viewed, but nothing intrest me.
some time ago i've bought these :
Dayton Audio BPP-SN Premium Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
Dayton Audio SBPP-SI Binding Post Plate Silver Anodized - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
now to increase quality, i've seen these : CCRR S (Binding Post) that are in full real copper, but i would mount them on an alluminium plate like this :
Dayton Audio SBPP-SI Binding Post Plate Silver Anodized - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
but for cardas i found nothing.
someone could help me ?
Dayton Audio BPP-SN Premium Binding Post Pair Satin Nickel - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
Dayton Audio SBPP-SI Binding Post Plate Silver Anodized - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
now to increase quality, i've seen these : CCRR S (Binding Post) that are in full real copper, but i would mount them on an alluminium plate like this :
Dayton Audio SBPP-SI Binding Post Plate Silver Anodized - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
but for cardas i found nothing.
someone could help me ?
This is an interesting academic article about silver sulphide (tarnish is from sulphur compounds in the air, not the oxide)
https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/bitstream/handle/1887/18364/Chapter6.pdf?sequence=7
They measure non linearity.
https://openaccess.leidenuniv.nl/bitstream/handle/1887/18364/Chapter6.pdf?sequence=7
They measure non linearity.
Propellor Posts
A friend of mine designed these. Closer to copper than brass. The tellurium is added to make it machinable. I own a few, I like them.
A friend of mine designed these. Closer to copper than brass. The tellurium is added to make it machinable. I own a few, I like them.
seems ordinary...but looking closer they appear to be very cleverly designed
looks like they have a very firm tight grip on the speaker wire, without crushing it
simple and effective
looks like they have a very firm tight grip on the speaker wire, without crushing it
simple and effective
Propellor Posts
A friend of mine designed these. Closer to copper than brass. The tellurium is added to make it machinable. I own a few, I like them.
a friend of mine bought some of these. turned out to be brass instead of gold plated red metal
It was Tiffany at one time... SY's recollection is correct.
As far as I can see, these connectors were all being made in Taiwan at one time, some still are. Others are being made in China. They all look about the same visually.
My experience is at variance with those whose experience says that it's all pretty much the same. Imo, it may well all sound the same, but it may not.
I have had the daunting experience of preparing one of my Symphony No.1 amps late in the night, for next day shipment to asia and hearing something dramatically "off" in the spatial and tonal presentation.
I thought that some parts had been installed incorrectly on the boards, that's how noticeable it was. What it turned out to be is that I used some binding posts that were from a different manufacturer. Once I changed back to some of the NOS HH Smith that I usually used, the problem went away. I was not dreaming this up, I was major league panicked by what I was hearing and the lack of time to correct it.
Why this happened? No idea. Visually the binding posts that were NG looked identical pretty much.
I am not saying that this is a regular occurrence, or that I can tell you what happened or why.
Also, I can say with some certainty that the type of wire used internally in an amplifier can and does have an effect upon the perceived nature of the sound heard.
Obviously, all this assumes a rather clean system, including clean, low distortion speakers, otherwise none of anything is likely to make a clearly audible difference, one way or the other.
For years folks tried to say that things like MF resistors are all the same, but now it has been documented that there are distortion signatures. The levels are very low, so why should you be able to hear the effect at all? Dunno, but in many cases one can.
Metals and materials may well play a role in what is heard. Knowing what is doing what and controlling that and working with it is another matter. Not so easy.
>diypass, look at the Cardas site, they list dealers and distributors.
As far as I can see, these connectors were all being made in Taiwan at one time, some still are. Others are being made in China. They all look about the same visually.
My experience is at variance with those whose experience says that it's all pretty much the same. Imo, it may well all sound the same, but it may not.
I have had the daunting experience of preparing one of my Symphony No.1 amps late in the night, for next day shipment to asia and hearing something dramatically "off" in the spatial and tonal presentation.
I thought that some parts had been installed incorrectly on the boards, that's how noticeable it was. What it turned out to be is that I used some binding posts that were from a different manufacturer. Once I changed back to some of the NOS HH Smith that I usually used, the problem went away. I was not dreaming this up, I was major league panicked by what I was hearing and the lack of time to correct it.
Why this happened? No idea. Visually the binding posts that were NG looked identical pretty much.
I am not saying that this is a regular occurrence, or that I can tell you what happened or why.
Also, I can say with some certainty that the type of wire used internally in an amplifier can and does have an effect upon the perceived nature of the sound heard.
Obviously, all this assumes a rather clean system, including clean, low distortion speakers, otherwise none of anything is likely to make a clearly audible difference, one way or the other.
For years folks tried to say that things like MF resistors are all the same, but now it has been documented that there are distortion signatures. The levels are very low, so why should you be able to hear the effect at all? Dunno, but in many cases one can.
Metals and materials may well play a role in what is heard. Knowing what is doing what and controlling that and working with it is another matter. Not so easy.
>diypass, look at the Cardas site, they list dealers and distributors.
a friend of mine bought some of these. turned out to be brass instead of gold plated red metal
why this ?
>diypass, look at the Cardas site, they list dealers and distributors.
ok, but some posts ago i writed :
"now to increase quality, i've seen these : CCRR S (Binding Post) that are in full real copper, but i would mount them on an alluminium plate like this :
Dayton Audio SBPP-SI Binding Post Plate Silver Anodized - Binding Posts & Plates - Speaker Cabinet Accessories - Loudspeaker Components
but for cardas i found nothing.
someone could help me ?"
...but no aswer
...also, are cardas binding posts in real coppoer ?
if yes, are they robust to mechanical stress ?
if yes, are they robust to mechanical stress ?
Copper is chemically and mechanically poor, so the normal solution is to use brass.
I would be quite surprised if somebody used actual copper.
I would be quite surprised if somebody used actual copper.
Barrier strips. Heavy brass and brass screws. Nickle plated. Screw driver tight.
Between any of the metals mentioned here at AF frequencies, the choice IS TOTALLY IRRELEVANT and this is just another one of those audiophile mystique fads that has nothing to do with sound reproduction. Buy them for bling or bragging rights, not for any sonic attributes.
What is "real" copper? Could you describe "fake" copper? Or are you talking about a lot of voice coils that are copper plated aluminum. ( lighter ) If you want to play those games, please talk about the impurities. How much lead, tin, iron, oxygen...... Yes, oxygen It is ADDED to reduce the impurities. Just don't come back and tell me micro-ohms make a patuties difference in a circuit with 6 or 7 Ohms DC resistance, relays, fast-ons, fuses (gasp), and various "impure" components.
Between any of the metals mentioned here at AF frequencies, the choice IS TOTALLY IRRELEVANT and this is just another one of those audiophile mystique fads that has nothing to do with sound reproduction. Buy them for bling or bragging rights, not for any sonic attributes.
What is "real" copper? Could you describe "fake" copper? Or are you talking about a lot of voice coils that are copper plated aluminum. ( lighter ) If you want to play those games, please talk about the impurities. How much lead, tin, iron, oxygen...... Yes, oxygen It is ADDED to reduce the impurities. Just don't come back and tell me micro-ohms make a patuties difference in a circuit with 6 or 7 Ohms DC resistance, relays, fast-ons, fuses (gasp), and various "impure" components.
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