Biggest factors you've found for enjoyment

ScottG ... whatcha got there?

-just a pic. I pulled from the internet. (..and yes, the Cello Pallete.)

Probably the best analog tone control ever made, and almost certainly the best thing that Mark Levinson (the man) ever produced.

..as an interesting side-note: Cello gear was the first time I was exposed to VERY obvious difference in "burn-in" with electronics (..from utter crap to nearly sublime after extended use at the dealer).
 
Just took a quick look at JRiver's "Loudness" found under Player, Playback Options, Volume. Didn't see anything about loudness in DSP Studio. MC24.

Had to use an RTA, which i despise, because i don't know how to simultaneously compare JRiver without Loudness to JRiver with ...like in a real transfer function.

It appears JRiver applies about a +3dB low shelf that starts gently climbing somewhere around 250Hz, to reack full boost at about 30Hz.
There may also be a small +1dB high shelf that starts at about 10k. Not sure here....did i say i hate RTA's? lol

Anyway, as simple as that is, it gets simpler ......afaict the boost is completely level independent. Hope I'm wrong....

Yes, you hoped right 😉... The idea is to calibrate JRiver to let it know at what level 83 dB is perceived. Loudness will only kick in once you go below that reference level.

See: NEW: Loudness (it was new back in 2012, no idea if it has seen revisions since)

It roughly follow ISO 226:2003 and will only kick in once you go below the reference level (after proper calibration). Going lower in volume will make the effect of that loudness curve stronger, that's the idea. It should go hand in hand with volume leveling after it's properly calibrated.
 
Or just eq it to how you like it to sound based on music, room, db volume, distortion, distance, preferences, etc.

You should see the loudness curve knob on the nakamichi sr2a, hilrious.
I'll try to snap a shot of it and post it.


But i noticed newer yamaha integrateds had a loudness knob also, instead of a button.
 
...But i noticed newer yamaha integrateds had a loudness knob also, instead of a button.

Yes, F-M is a family of (nested) curves. A complex VC like on the Kenwood (and others) can match all the F-M curves OK - provided you calibrate for you chair using an SPL meter and relate that to Kenwood (which you prolly can only do by guesswork).

The variable/knob amps, I assume, let you choose the loudness-EQ curve you want and let you tune by ear and re-tune as you change the volume level... if you really want to bother. Nothing wrong with tuning your EQ to taste.

So a fastidious DIYer should do the Kenwood thing to bring approximately absolutely true F-M correction into their system. Or just EQ to taste.

BTW, I once noticed a body of inquiries to miniDSP about programming F-M. I don't know if anybody did it. It should be possible in principle (with enough software smarts) but you still must have the loudness right at your chair and have the software track by having the knees in the curves in the right places as loudness at your chair goes up and down. You read it here first.).
 
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Are you forgetting the bass boost needed for equal-seeming loudness changes according to how loud you're playing? So you need to fiddle with the EQ knobs each time you change the volume control (and each time you change sources, if their level varies or it the music on the source varies or....).*

B.
*the Kenwood system corrects automatically for the position of the vc but not if sources vary
 
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what do you think are the biggest factors in getting speakers right, in enjoying tracks?


Flat, extended power response.
Dynamics, dynamics, dynamics.

No peaks in the "funny" regions like 6dB peak at 7k that makes one to turn off whatever is playing.
And stereo imaging that doesn't make it seem like the sound you hear is coming out of the speakers but is a cloud in the room. That is also working and really awesome with a single speaker in mono.
 
Using signal level is not ideal
Part of the change in tone from a piano played soft then loud is due to the FM curves. Using signal level would destroy that. It needs to be based on system gain

If your playback of a piano is at the same volume level as the actual piano (gain = 0dB), you want a flat frequency response. If your playback is quieter (gain = e.g. -10dB), the bass and treble should be increased to keep the tone sounding the same as the original

In my system, the volume control is digital, so no idea how I could do loudness. Instead I set up the system for an "normal" playback level and put up with bass light quiet playback, and bass heavy loud playback. I guess most of us do the same

Brian
 
100 db ? that's well beyond the threshold of permanent hearing damage, I sometimes listen to as low as 55 db, with the right system volumes this low will still convey the music. Possibly if a hi fi is warm and smooth more volume is required to give it life - are the people who like smooth and warm also people who play it really loud ?