Hi
You could, diffrent overcurrent settings, probably would need better fets, PCB may be strong enough
In any case, up to overcurrent you can use it now
You could, diffrent overcurrent settings, probably would need better fets, PCB may be strong enough
In any case, up to overcurrent you can use it now
I can't remember at what value but I think overcurrent is set at about 30 or 40A.
I also think PSU is capable of handling the current. I will need bigger heatsinks though.
I also think PSU is capable of handling the current. I will need bigger heatsinks though.
Hi
If you have amp on one, you could tahe small steps and test it now, 30A is a lot, even for 2R, 900w or less, don't know about heat, my didn't heat up anything, yours does?
If you have amp on one, you could tahe small steps and test it now, 30A is a lot, even for 2R, 900w or less, don't know about heat, my didn't heat up anything, yours does?
haven't tested the whole thing yet as the chassis is still in pieces. but before, amp8 module heats up even at idle. PSU is very cool.
Hi
Apart from TK chip on my amp2 fets were cold, 4R speaker with 50w of power, they got warm but that time was without heatsink
Apart from TK chip on my amp2 fets were cold, 4R speaker with 50w of power, they got warm but that time was without heatsink
been busy so it took a while, my amp8 rebuild stopped here with the new PS. need to scrape up some cash for output PS caps and heatsinks. 😀 the main trafo has just dried after soaking in electrical varnish. it was making a whining noise without the varnish as the operating freq is quite low.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Congratulations, it seems that you have learnt some layout tricks 😀
Big cores require many turns in order to cover their whole length resulting in a too low operating frequency and high I^2*R losses. I prefer smaller cores because they can easily accomodate as little as 4 or 5 primary turns and I^2*R losses end up being lower.
You don't really need a heatsink, a piece of thick aluminium sheet is ok and it may be bent on both ends to get half of an enclosure.
Big cores require many turns in order to cover their whole length resulting in a too low operating frequency and high I^2*R losses. I prefer smaller cores because they can easily accomodate as little as 4 or 5 primary turns and I^2*R losses end up being lower.
You don't really need a heatsink, a piece of thick aluminium sheet is ok and it may be bent on both ends to get half of an enclosure.
the heatsink is for the amp8 module since the fets warm up even at idle. I'm confident this amp will run really cool even when loaded. 😉
time to bring it up again 😀
I see that you did connect gnd to gnd, how?
I'm thinking I will have to do the same with my
I see that you did connect gnd to gnd, how?
I'm thinking I will have to do the same with my
which one? input and output gnd? via parallel 100R and 100nF cap.
this project got shelved because the DD subs I got weren't a good match to the amp impedance wise and I got a very good deal on a broken amp I was able to fix that was perfect for the subs.
but I might revive this project again sometime in the future just for the fun of it. 😀 and install it in a real amp case. 😉
this project got shelved because the DD subs I got weren't a good match to the amp impedance wise and I got a very good deal on a broken amp I was able to fix that was perfect for the subs.
but I might revive this project again sometime in the future just for the fun of it. 😀 and install it in a real amp case. 😉
As far as I know, there is input to output, 100nF and 1kΩ in || and output to case with 100nF
Still running DD's, yep me too 🙂
I hope there will be more out of this project, was great to watch so far
Still running DD's, yep me too 🙂
I hope there will be more out of this project, was great to watch so far
what a beast 600w!. How envious it gives me the level control over electronics in this forum. Congratulations!!
-Necropost warning-
I was hoping it wouldn't end like this but such is life.
I just saw this module mixed in the junk pile and decided to revive it and build a 2ch home amp. I have been gathering and ordering parts, fabricated a new aluminum plate, clamps and heatsink. I was going to build this amp and then post the new unit here as an update after it is completed.
While waiting for the parts, I decided to power it up using two 56V 1.2A PoE switching supplies in series and use it that way to be sure the module is still useable. Not one song later, pop! Driver chip is dead. Only Profusion has some NOS in stock but at that price I could get a complete amp module with SMPS onboard. I guess I'll have to break my promise that this amp will be revived someday.
I was hoping it wouldn't end like this but such is life.
I just saw this module mixed in the junk pile and decided to revive it and build a 2ch home amp. I have been gathering and ordering parts, fabricated a new aluminum plate, clamps and heatsink. I was going to build this amp and then post the new unit here as an update after it is completed.
While waiting for the parts, I decided to power it up using two 56V 1.2A PoE switching supplies in series and use it that way to be sure the module is still useable. Not one song later, pop! Driver chip is dead. Only Profusion has some NOS in stock but at that price I could get a complete amp module with SMPS onboard. I guess I'll have to break my promise that this amp will be revived someday.
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Well, that's unfortunate. I remember back when you started this thread. I wanted to do somethng similar with my TDA2500 board but never got around to it.
I see the TP2350B on ebay/ali for relatively cheap. I think it would be worth trying to save the amp.
I recently revived one of my long dead Audiosource AMP Seven T amplifiers that had been sitting since around the same time you built this. I was able to modify a TA0103A module to work as a TA0104A since the 104A is prohibitively expensive these days.
There are much better Class-D solutions around now, but I will always have a soft spot for Tripath. That silly little Sonic Impact amp is what got me interested in this hobby and lead me to join this forum.
I see the TP2350B on ebay/ali for relatively cheap. I think it would be worth trying to save the amp.
I recently revived one of my long dead Audiosource AMP Seven T amplifiers that had been sitting since around the same time you built this. I was able to modify a TA0103A module to work as a TA0104A since the 104A is prohibitively expensive these days.
There are much better Class-D solutions around now, but I will always have a soft spot for Tripath. That silly little Sonic Impact amp is what got me interested in this hobby and lead me to join this forum.
I looked around, none came up on ali but I got a couple on epay. I'll try and get a friend to order a couple or three so that I also have spares. Thanks for the tip!
Yeah, I really wanted to bring this back to life just for the memories and these are the last few 41hz t-amps around. I still have an amp1 and amp2 in car amps still built and functional but on a shelf. Three amp32s still working also, and an amp9b working with a DIY soundbar with four 3in square tangband subs and six PR's and a full ranger with active LR crossover.
I'm looking for a Tripath TDA2500. If you have one, I'll buy it off of you! 🙂