Hello all, and happy holidays!
Lately, I've been working mostly corporate parties and weddings. Typically the crowd size I supply sound for is around 250-450 people. The rooms range from 60'x40' up to 100'x65'.
Currently, my go-to rig for this size gig consists of Nexo GEO S8 & CD1s powered with NXAMP 4x4, but I'd like to build a smaller and more powerful Speaker on Stick rig. I'd like something compact with the most punch. Subs would be needed.
So what would your most ideal Speaker On Stick rig be to cover these gigs if cost is not an issue?
I am open to either Active or Passive.
Lately, I've been working mostly corporate parties and weddings. Typically the crowd size I supply sound for is around 250-450 people. The rooms range from 60'x40' up to 100'x65'.
Currently, my go-to rig for this size gig consists of Nexo GEO S8 & CD1s powered with NXAMP 4x4, but I'd like to build a smaller and more powerful Speaker on Stick rig. I'd like something compact with the most punch. Subs would be needed.
So what would your most ideal Speaker On Stick rig be to cover these gigs if cost is not an issue?
I am open to either Active or Passive.
Are you arraying the GEO S8's? Or do you only use a pair of them? If you want more punch you're going to need to step up to bigger tops with a 12" woofer. Something like the Yamaha DSR112 or KV2 EX12. I have KV2 ESD12's (passive version of EX12) and they have incredibly low distortion and are so phase accurate that when aligned well with subs they have excellent punch and snap!
Depending on how loud you want it, I'd just build my PA system all over again.
Tops: 2x Faital Pro 10FH520, ported box. 1x 18Sound ND1460 on a RCF HF94 horn
Subs: Up to 8x 15" ported subs, combination of Faital Pro 15HP1060 and Beyma 15P1200Nd. They're within 1dB of each other, so close enough to use interchangeably.
For the tops, I used 4x 3" ports which are 110mm long each, arranged to optimise convection cooling. The native tuning frequency is around 80Hz. If you block two of the ports, it drops to 60Hz, and block another gets 44Hz. That means you can trade off SPL for LF extension as you like.
For amplification, there's around 300w for the HF unit, 1KW per 10" and 2KW per 15".
Crossovers are active, 800Hz and 100Hz. If it's going to be a very loud gig, I'll take it up to 1.2kHz to give the HF an easier time.
With four subs, you can do this: YouTube
Which was 85dB C-slow at the camera position. With that particular track, the peaks were around 103dB. Despite putting full power into every driver (tickling the limiters on all bands), the sound is still pretty clean - that's the difference between cheap drivers and good ones.
Given how much headroom I usually have, I'm tempted to build a smaller version of those tops with 1x10" per side.
Chris
Tops: 2x Faital Pro 10FH520, ported box. 1x 18Sound ND1460 on a RCF HF94 horn
Subs: Up to 8x 15" ported subs, combination of Faital Pro 15HP1060 and Beyma 15P1200Nd. They're within 1dB of each other, so close enough to use interchangeably.
For the tops, I used 4x 3" ports which are 110mm long each, arranged to optimise convection cooling. The native tuning frequency is around 80Hz. If you block two of the ports, it drops to 60Hz, and block another gets 44Hz. That means you can trade off SPL for LF extension as you like.
For amplification, there's around 300w for the HF unit, 1KW per 10" and 2KW per 15".
Crossovers are active, 800Hz and 100Hz. If it's going to be a very loud gig, I'll take it up to 1.2kHz to give the HF an easier time.
With four subs, you can do this: YouTube
Which was 85dB C-slow at the camera position. With that particular track, the peaks were around 103dB. Despite putting full power into every driver (tickling the limiters on all bands), the sound is still pretty clean - that's the difference between cheap drivers and good ones.
Given how much headroom I usually have, I'm tempted to build a smaller version of those tops with 1x10" per side.
Chris
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