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I live in Norway less than a year, left my system collecting dust and allso my pleasure room.

Month ago I started new tri-amped open baffle speaker project. Speakers are finished, but dificulty for me is line level passive crossover for all these 6 ch., and smoked squeezebox transport.So, no proper sound yet.

But I have dedicated listening room here, and thats good, but small about 14m2.
Cant wait how it all goes with new OBs.
 
Lenta
Just ordered a squeezebox about two hours ago. A truly revolutionary piece of equipment. Now that my computer is in the kitchen(Because of you, damn it!), I now have an excuse to get one, thanks.
I took my stereo rack(He didn't need it,I swear!) back from one of my kids and am now going to go back to my old formal set up, but using the Squeezebox as the head unit.
Could you give us some details of your dipole project? Maybe on a new thread? This one seems to have run it's course...(A very long time ago!!)
Seth
 
Realy? :D
Is it duet or touch?
Both can be greatly modified!Here are the links to lampizator site:
squeezeballs
squeezebox squeezeboxtransport
Was suprized that Idamaged my sqb, but I done things like mad, all at once and not things adviced by lampizator.

I bought a dedicated ultra quiet netbook to run a server, wich cant be heard from 1m.
The things that will fallow is 2t network storage and some tablet as an exelent touch screen remote to control my squeezebox duet. I read that its good to use wifi range extender close to squeezebox and then you can easy experiment runing it wifi or with ethernet cable.

I will post some pictures later, it has prety interesting baffle design with neo3(its great), vifa NE149w extended midrange driver and 15" bass.
 
Note that yes, while the door was open when I took that photograph, it does
remain closed for all my critical listening and the room response measurements
published in Stereophile. See, for example, Both Acapella Horns | Stereophile.com .

John Atkinson
Editor, Stereophile

Hey John,
You are a hero of mine( I cut my teeth on reading your measurement sections), and no disrespect was intended. The point I was trying to make, is that, if a less than "ideal" listening and testing room is good enough for the likes of John Atkinson, Sigfried Linkwitz, and Floyd Toole....
Seth
 
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Realy? :D
Is it duet or touch?
Both can be greatly modified!Here are the links to lampizator site:
squeezeballs
squeezebox squeezeboxtransport
Was suprized that Idamaged my sqb, but I done things like mad, all at once and not things adviced by lampizator.

I bought a dedicated ultra quiet netbook to run a server, wich cant be heard from 1m.
The things that will fallow is 2t network storage and some tablet as an exelent touch screen remote to control my squeezebox duet. I read that its good to use wifi range extender close to squeezebox and then you can easy experiment runing it wifi or with ethernet cable.

I will post some pictures later, it has prety interesting baffle design with neo3(its great), vifa NE149w extended midrange driver and 15" bass.
The Touch is what I'm referring to. It probably has the best cost/performance ratio of any single piece of audio gear on the planet. Look at Atkinson's measurements; Logitech Squeezebox Touch network music player | Stereophile.com .It will fit in perfectly with my Behringer based system (Another cost/performance based company). I am also going to attempt to reintroduce my Conrad Johnson MV-50 amplifier back into the system, to drive my Neo 3's.(When you mix pro and consumer equipment, The outcome isn't always good.)

I really like the vifa NE line. Great choice.
 
At first I was starting to prepare some serious information about how you could improve your room acoustics, but seeing these new pictures I can truly say that you can do nothing to this open livingroom.
Do you have some other rooms?Maby basement?

And nothing wrong with glass table, it just shouldnt be between speakers and listening position. But that wardrobe between speakers is much, much worse!
Lenta
If we are going to continue with this thread, I may as well address this "open living room" issue. Having an open living room with openings to adjacent rooms 10 ft behind(and on both sides of the room) the listening seat(as with the original set up) in the manner that I do is actually a very good thing and I shall explain why. Quite simply, a bass transient (and also a pretty fair amount of midrange and treble energy) passes by you once (At least as far as the room's long dimension is concerned), and dissipates in the adjacent rooms behind you. Very little energy comes back to haunt you in the form of delayed bass "noise". In other words, the open rear rooms function as the ultimate bass traps. In a completely closed room, the bass will continue to resonate back and forth as it dissipates energy due mainly to architecturally based structural losses. This is why artificial bass traps are used very often in completely closed rooms. As a very inefficient attempt to achieve the same exact same thing that I have naturally. Now, I have to admit that, with passive based loudspeaker systems, adjusting the bass output and response to compensate for these losses is sometimes very difficult to do effectively. That is one of the main reasons I have a completely active dsp based system. To compensate easily and effectively for these "good" losses of bass energy.
Seth
 
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You are right, the bass in your room should be more linear than closed room, although unpredictable. Yes losses is huge,bass is working in all that area and maybe you have even open stairs to secon floor?So huge bass trap :D
But no doubt soundstage suffers huge too.

The best posible way to get linear responce in closed room is plan everything before renovation like I done. All my room is bass trapp. Its easyer to understand looking in this site.
The guy who made this article is acoustic engineer and he made his room for himself. Use google chrome translator.
????????????? ??????????? ??????? - SoundEX - ???? ????????? ???????? ?????
Use google translator .
I made very similar room, exept design :D
There is so much important small secrets to make it all work, its just incredible!!!Every wall I tuned for different frequency, some walls get 2 layer firebord, some only 1, mixing with acoustic wool density and damping layer thickness. In early reflection spots from ceiling to floor 30% of fireboard was made with many different kind of holes 1-5cm diameter, wich made it work like exelent midrange damper from 300-6000hz even when after was closed with wallpapers.
 
He owns Sonus Faber Extrema loudspeakers. An old but good design by Franco Serblin.
The problem with Russia is that home construction methods are so different than in the states. Cinder block or concrete walls are the absolute worst possible walls to have for good bass. When a bass guitar string is plucked, you only want to hear the effect of that pluck once and no more. Concrete and cinder block walls hold it in and won't let it go, so the bass becomes pure mud. This is why he is going through such extreme measures to create fake, lossy walls over the cinderblock. Because the bass sucked. In those circumstances, I would do the exact same thing. In the states, we have hollow walls made out of wood frame and plasterboard construction, with fiberglass insulation filling the hollow cavity. Very, very lossy. And lossy walls are essential for good clean bass.

Soundstaging in my room was not very good, I admit. That is the exact reason I went dipole from 500hz and up. The lateral and vertical null that is created by the dipole configuration is amazingly effective at eliminating those exact reflections that caused the soundstaging problems(and harshness) in the first place. The soundstaging is perfectly centered, layered and deep. It's like the windows to the side of the speaker don't exist(and acoustic treatments on the side windows don't make it any better). This is the first time I have experienced this phenomena in twenty years of being in this room. Amazing!
 
He owns Sonus Faber Extrema loudspeakers. An old but good design by Franco Serblin.
The problem with Russia is that home construction methods are so different than in the states. Cinder block or concrete walls are the absolute worst possible walls to have for good bass. When a bass guitar string is plucked, you only want to hear the effect of that pluck once and no more. Concrete and cinder block walls hold it in and won't let it go, so the bass becomes pure mud. This is why he is going through such extreme measures to create fake, lossy walls over the cinderblock. Because the bass sucked. In those circumstances, I would do the exact same thing. In the states, we have hollow walls made out of wood frame and plasterboard construction, with fiberglass insulation filling the hollow cavity. Very, very lossy. And lossy walls are essential for good clean bass.

Soundstaging in my room was not very good, I admit. That is the exact reason I went dipole from 500hz and up. The lateral and vertical null that is created by the dipole configuration is amazingly effective at eliminating those exact reflections that caused the soundstaging problems(and harshness) in the first place. The soundstaging is perfectly centered, layered and deep. It's like the windows to the side of the speaker don't exist(and acoustic treatments on the side windows don't make it any better). This is the first time I have experienced this phenomena in twenty years of being in this room. Amazing!
Actually, they aren't Extrema's but still very good.
 
I really like what he did to his room. The results must be incredibly musical! But I think, in my humble opinion, that being this close to the sidewalls, that the use of RPG Skyline style diffusors would have been a better choice. The types of diffusors he is using need more distance from the ears to sort themselves out.
Seth
 
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Its extraordinary!These wooden pegs ar prety long and act in wide range its seems, so they need no more absorbers or diffuzers!And looks cool!
"We don’t have any fiberglass on the walls — it absorbs largely at high frequencies and is less likely to absorb at low frequencies"
Its no true off course, you can finetune your glasswool with different kind fiberglass or other materials. Glasswool even covered vith pvc still absorps, just reduces absorption coefficient and it becomes reflective at higher ferquencies.
It can be paper, fiberglass, very dense rough fabric.
For low frequencies fiberglass should be thick and dense, best place is in corners.

Maybe he though about glasswool without any type of coating?


Here is isover acoustic panels with 3 different kind of fiberglass coatings 50mm and 200mm.

50mm
glass-wool-coating.jpg


200mm
glass-wool-coating-200mm.jpg

Black line is 200+200mm.

Master? A
 
Does your curtains came? Are they heavy type or light?

Inspect your acoustic panels, are they heavy, how thick, what type of coating?
Probably after curtains you will feel unbalanced absorption an you will need different kind of panels.
You allready have allmost nothing in your room wich absorbs from 100-500hz, and after curtains you will feel that.
 
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