Hi Guys,
I've been using a power strip I bought many years ago. It was just a basic model. I few weeks ago the power switch started arching and the 20 amp dedicated breaker would trip. The strip had an Ashly FTX2001; Chevin 3000a and EV AC1 plugged into it for the main system. I of course replace the strip with an extension cord and 3 socket "T" to plug in the 3 pieces of equipment. I immediately notice a small but definite improvement in sound across all aspects. Soundstage got wider; imaging more in focus; dynamics and bass depth improved some too.
Moral to the story, Make sure all power connectivity is solid and switches are performing properly. Anything loose or that sparks should be addressed ASAP. Power connectivity matters.
I've been using a power strip I bought many years ago. It was just a basic model. I few weeks ago the power switch started arching and the 20 amp dedicated breaker would trip. The strip had an Ashly FTX2001; Chevin 3000a and EV AC1 plugged into it for the main system. I of course replace the strip with an extension cord and 3 socket "T" to plug in the 3 pieces of equipment. I immediately notice a small but definite improvement in sound across all aspects. Soundstage got wider; imaging more in focus; dynamics and bass depth improved some too.
Moral to the story, Make sure all power connectivity is solid and switches are performing properly. Anything loose or that sparks should be addressed ASAP. Power connectivity matters.
All of the lighted rocker switches in my power strips broke after two decades of use. The translucent plastic is brittle.
The power strips with non-lighted rocker switches are fine.
Ed
The power strips with non-lighted rocker switches are fine.
Ed
Very much doubt you noticed a sound improvement. Most likely it's placebo/expectation bias. The AC is well filtered in all hifi equipment.
Obviously an arcing power strip is not good, however. I use a power strip from IKEA with individual switches for each socket. Feels well built and works well. It has an LED for each socket and they have yet to fail. IKEA make pretty good electrical items.
Obviously an arcing power strip is not good, however. I use a power strip from IKEA with individual switches for each socket. Feels well built and works well. It has an LED for each socket and they have yet to fail. IKEA make pretty good electrical items.
I make my own...the strips sold here have mostly flimsy sockets arcing is common.
And I put MOV if needed.
Much more reliable than what is available in the market.
I have replaced burnt / melted switches on strips that were used for blowers and vacuum cleaners, and those were American brands made in China and sold in the UAE.
And I put MOV if needed.
Much more reliable than what is available in the market.
I have replaced burnt / melted switches on strips that were used for blowers and vacuum cleaners, and those were American brands made in China and sold in the UAE.
Really? In the USA it's quite shite...IKEA make pretty good electrical items.
For power strips I recommend one of the many models of Tripp-Lite (an Eaton brand)
Pretty decent in UK. They're a big company, they don't want a reputation for burning your house down. Electrical things are well designed.Really? In the USA it's quite shite...
Ikea is lower budget stuff here, I prefer known local brands.
Ikea stores are kind of far away from me, and prices are higher than most places, quality of knock down furniture is said to be better than Chinese brands sold under Indian names, which is not saying much.
Having had to replace SMPS and HDD in computers due to noisy supplies, I prefer the rigid no compromise approach rather than a make shift approach.
Ikea stores are kind of far away from me, and prices are higher than most places, quality of knock down furniture is said to be better than Chinese brands sold under Indian names, which is not saying much.
Having had to replace SMPS and HDD in computers due to noisy supplies, I prefer the rigid no compromise approach rather than a make shift approach.
First thing I did when moving in was replacing the old fuses and installing a modern fuse cabinet. Then I had the electrician change all the sockets and light switches to new ones. Fire was the official concern. An article about an pld Japanese audiophiliac with his own power grid to his house, was the real reason.
I have a couple of the ones in metal housing mounted in my lab. They're great and made with heavy gauge wire and good outlets.For power strips I recommend one of the many models of Tripp-Lite (an Eaton brand)
Tom
What can be noticed even in A branded stuff is the mediocre quality of the Chinese made illuminated rocker switches. Sometimes these fail in less than a year. Mechanical defects like broken springs or the plastic pins can be seen. The switch either can not be operated anymore or it gets stuck. Sometimes the faston versions are used but wires are soldered which is both stupid and detrimental. Metallurgical knowledge of switch contact metal alloys apparently has not been copied so contact quality is often so so with pitting. It is cheap throw away quality in too many cases.
Stock up quality (DPST of course) 22 x 30 mm western made NOS switches by Marquardt, Arcolectric, Bulgin etc. while you can. Since these are not sold in high Numbers anymore production will stop one day.
Stock up quality (DPST of course) 22 x 30 mm western made NOS switches by Marquardt, Arcolectric, Bulgin etc. while you can. Since these are not sold in high Numbers anymore production will stop one day.
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I have two of these from IKEA and I find them great. Individual switches and LEDs, feels well made.
I'm not sure why you think switches are going to make any difference as the electricity is well filtered in all hifi components,Stock up quality (DPST of course) 22 x 30 mm western made NOS switches by Marquardt, Arcolectric, Bulgin etc. while you can. Since these are not sold in high Numbers anymore production will stop one day.
Can you read english messages? I am not a native speaker but tried to explain (in detail!) that they fail very often. The first part of my post.
BTW IKEA today is not what it used to be. Today Chinese stuff. It looks OK though.
BTW IKEA today is not what it used to be. Today Chinese stuff. It looks OK though.
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Chinese stuff today is not what it used to be - the quality is improving all the time and you can get any quality you pay for in China nowadays. So to judge by whether it's made in China is silly.BTW IKEA today is not what it used to be. Today Chinese stuff. It looks OK though.
These IKEA power strips feel better made than any others I have,
When you repair stuff and see a lot of failures you sometimes see a pattern.
When you only see one or two devices you may be lucky. You will not see the pattern.
I also don’t complain about Chinese made stuff, I complain about Chinese made switches. Probably of imprecise language, sorry for the confusion I caused with indecipherable post #12.
When you only see one or two devices you may be lucky. You will not see the pattern.
I also don’t complain about Chinese made stuff, I complain about Chinese made switches. Probably of imprecise language, sorry for the confusion I caused with indecipherable post #12.
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In the field I have seen cheap no name plastic consumer grade power strips (Schuko) used in hot/cold/dry/moist/vibration rich industrial environments that crumbled to pieces when being handled. This is a user error but still….
Detail: these often can not be opened as they have either a one time connection method or special screws.
Buy quality or you buy twice. Or thrice 😉
Detail: these often can not be opened as they have either a one time connection method or special screws.
Buy quality or you buy twice. Or thrice 😉
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Sure. just saying I recommend these IKEA ones that I have been using. Seem better than most.When you repair stuff and see a lot of failures you sometimes see a pattern.
When you only see one or two devices you may be lucky. You will not see the pattern.
Also these IKEA USB chargers come recommended:
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