Beveridge panel repair
- Thread starter DavidE
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More information:
one channel not working, or??
if one channel not working, check the power fuse, check for B+ coming out of the "bias" supply.
if possible swap the electronics from one unit to the other, this will isolate the problem to the interface part or else show that it is the cells.
No sound at all, or crackly sound? Crackly sound is usually lack of "bias". Check to see that the bias wire (one) is going to the cells... they can break or fall off...
where in "NY"??
Contact me off forum...
_-_-bear
one channel not working, or??
if one channel not working, check the power fuse, check for B+ coming out of the "bias" supply.
if possible swap the electronics from one unit to the other, this will isolate the problem to the interface part or else show that it is the cells.
No sound at all, or crackly sound? Crackly sound is usually lack of "bias". Check to see that the bias wire (one) is going to the cells... they can break or fall off...
where in "NY"??
Contact me off forum...
_-_-bear
Repair Information
Rick Beveridge is currently rebuilding the panels and enclosures (if needed). You can contact him at 707-887-8494 (PST).
I believe the price to compltely rebuild a panel is $400 (or in that range).
A quick check to see if your panels are defective or out of spec is to measure the capactance from the mylar to either one of the stators - you should measure a value in the 800 pf range. BTW, Rick says that for proper operation the measured capactance should be nearly equal front to back. The limited exposure I've had to these panels suggests that the most common failure mode is the connection to the mylar (depends upon the time of manufacture).
If you need to troubleshoot the amp (which I don't think is your problem if one of the three panels is operational) e-mail me off line.
Rick Beveridge is currently rebuilding the panels and enclosures (if needed). You can contact him at 707-887-8494 (PST).
I believe the price to compltely rebuild a panel is $400 (or in that range).
A quick check to see if your panels are defective or out of spec is to measure the capactance from the mylar to either one of the stators - you should measure a value in the 800 pf range. BTW, Rick says that for proper operation the measured capactance should be nearly equal front to back. The limited exposure I've had to these panels suggests that the most common failure mode is the connection to the mylar (depends upon the time of manufacture).
If you need to troubleshoot the amp (which I don't think is your problem if one of the three panels is operational) e-mail me off line.
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