Sorry, missed these last few posts - some of my suggestions already answered - suggest you poke around to see if there's an online version of some of the manuals to play around with the shelving networks - it'll be a bit of fun to change the sound a bit, run-in or not. I did find that the Deulund #16 speaker wire cut down the tops a bit too - just saying, mind you...
I do like the accuracy and balance of the Jones-Scanlon 'Reds" monitor especially when running at higher levels but a very different sound indeed to the Betsy (and price too!).
We've still got a pair of "Greencones" sitting up above the board/desk (mainly for adds but still working well!
I tried the combination of the Betsy on a bigger baffle with Tom Christianson's Neurochrome 3886 amp and I thought it a "bit thin" in comparison to the F6 amp but you might find this quite useful - I thought his 3886 didn't seem to have much of a 'sound' at all actually - quite surprised, even when pushed hard.
I do like the accuracy and balance of the Jones-Scanlon 'Reds" monitor especially when running at higher levels but a very different sound indeed to the Betsy (and price too!).
We've still got a pair of "Greencones" sitting up above the board/desk (mainly for adds but still working well!
I tried the combination of the Betsy on a bigger baffle with Tom Christianson's Neurochrome 3886 amp and I thought it a "bit thin" in comparison to the F6 amp but you might find this quite useful - I thought his 3886 didn't seem to have much of a 'sound' at all actually - quite surprised, even when pushed hard.
OK, after reacquainting myself with the Betsy, most of what you're concerned about is typical of the genre, so the Lowther $0.98 tweak and softening the whizzer a bit should do it for you: Modifications
Personally prefer to knead the starch out of the whizzers while some prefer damping them with Dammar or similar and if either is overdone, then using the cheapest lacquer based hairspray [if still available] misted on was common to get them tuned up right [normally by ear] and some thin/porous whizzers [not Betsy] responded well to just using the hairspray.
BTW, cutting out the DC is often counter productive as IME a stick on star like I've seen on 1st grader's tests do a fine job of breaking up its dome bending/eigen modes while others tweaked with tin foil, reshaping the whizzers, adding holes, slits, etc..
Acoustic solutions, these were the kind of help you'd have gotten on the 'FR' forums 20-30 yrs ago...........
GM
Some of these 'old fixes' are quite successful as they provide an acoustical solution not electronic compensation, not that there's anything wrong with that but sometimes the simple things work really well.
The idea pf shelving networks is a pretty old one, for example, and you only need look at current passive networks to see them in operation with probably more accurate impedance loading
Another forgotten one is to drape some 'flywire' netting (plastic mosquito netting) across the front of the 'too hot' driver, and sometimes double thickness - this is often still done for when using large speakers in smaller venues at lower volumes (we used this in front of the lenses on the front of mid & treble horns) - different filtered results to reducing the volume.
… an easy try, eh?
The idea pf shelving networks is a pretty old one, for example, and you only need look at current passive networks to see them in operation with probably more accurate impedance loading
Another forgotten one is to drape some 'flywire' netting (plastic mosquito netting) across the front of the 'too hot' driver, and sometimes double thickness - this is often still done for when using large speakers in smaller venues at lower volumes (we used this in front of the lenses on the front of mid & treble horns) - different filtered results to reducing the volume.
… an easy try, eh?
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