I’m planning a hybrid open baffle build with a 10” full range located about 36” from the floor on a flat board. The board will be held up vertically by attaching it to a box about 1cuft (28 l) that also serves as the case for an 8” sealed woofer.
Each speaker will be located about 4 ft. from the front wall and 18 inches from the side wall in an 11'x12’ carpeted room. I plan to crossover to the woofer at about 200 Hz.
Question is whether locating the woofer driver on the front, or back, or side, or top of the sealed box will matter. I’d prefer not to put in on the front, but would do so if it would make much difference to the sound in the room.
If not on the front, is there a preferred orientation that would provide optimum bass distribution in the room.
Each speaker will be located about 4 ft. from the front wall and 18 inches from the side wall in an 11'x12’ carpeted room. I plan to crossover to the woofer at about 200 Hz.
Question is whether locating the woofer driver on the front, or back, or side, or top of the sealed box will matter. I’d prefer not to put in on the front, but would do so if it would make much difference to the sound in the room.
If not on the front, is there a preferred orientation that would provide optimum bass distribution in the room.
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Good question, let's see what answers show up.
FWIW, I had a similar rig with 8" fullrange and 2x6.5 woofers in a box at the bottom as baffle support. The woofers were on the left and right side of the woofer box. I never could get it to sound right. Don't know if it was the side firing woofers or something else.
FWIW, I had a similar rig with 8" fullrange and 2x6.5 woofers in a box at the bottom as baffle support. The woofers were on the left and right side of the woofer box. I never could get it to sound right. Don't know if it was the side firing woofers or something else.
It would be if I was starting from scratch and the box was a cube. Then just rotate it.
But I'm planning to use two existing boxes that were built as speaker stands. They are 14"w x 13"d x 10.5"h and already painted. So I would prefer to just cut the driver holes once.
I guess I could build a test box the same size and then patch up the openings as I try different orientations. I'll give that some thought. Thanks.
Can't do it in the existing boxes. Bottom of the box is on the carpet. Could do upfire, however, since top of the box is exposed. Do you think that would be better than side fire, frontfire, or backfire.
Yeah, but it will be behind the vertical baffle, so you really won't be able to see it very easily. Particularly if the speakers are toed in.
I probably should try all the different orientations with a test box and make measurements at the listening position.
Hi Pano,
Maybe you could offer me some advice on this subject. I definitely want to try open baffle. I think I’m going to really like it for classical music, but need to hear it. I’m a little concerned about my 11’ x 12’ room being too small.
This post is about using Audio Nirvana 10” Classics that I already have as the main driver for 200Hz and above, and augmenting them with a sealed 8” woofer.
But it’s not the only option. I’m also considering the current Manzanitas that I know you are familiar with from that thread.
Cost is not the biggest issue. Time and effort to get to something I can really enjoy is much more important.
So the big question for you is whether it is likely that the Manzanitas will sound significantly better than the AN approach using what I already have. Probably a tough question for you to answer, but I would still be interested in what you think. And from anyone else that wants to offer an opinion. Thanks.
It would be an interesting experiment. I think playing upto, and above, 200Hz is a bit high to be impeding it behind the baffle?
That's another possibility, but I want to do something very simple to start. First I just want to find out if I like OB and whether it will work in my small room.
If I do, then I don't mind moving up to better designs. In fact, I expect to go up to the next level at some point.
Thinking now of getting started with the Manzanita, since it's a proven design and still fairly compact.
it depends on xo slopes too, LR2 has pretty much overlap. I use downfire 300Hz LR2 in one "design" and it sounds just fine. With dsp-xo it is easy to test different xo points and slopes with different woofer positions. Measurements and listening are needed, but in-room listening is what really counts!