Hi All
What is the best way to re-apply lettering to refurbished/repainted amplifier chassis.
Restore of these two monoblocks will start in a few weeks when we have warmer weather. I will do the stripping, removing of old corroded paint and chassis prep and finally repainting in the same blue colour. A vexing problem is how to re-apply all the lettering on the repainted chassis which is aluminium.
I have investigated a bit and called many firms including 3M but no-one has reverted offering a solution. I local printshop made me a selfadhesive clear sticker as a test and as you can see in the first pic, it looks awful as the label's edges are showing.
The term 'waterslide film' has cropped-up and I have read a bit about methods of use but until now, I have been unable to find any firm using the material.
Any more ideas? Letraset is out as there are too many legends.
Thanks
bulgin
What is the best way to re-apply lettering to refurbished/repainted amplifier chassis.
Restore of these two monoblocks will start in a few weeks when we have warmer weather. I will do the stripping, removing of old corroded paint and chassis prep and finally repainting in the same blue colour. A vexing problem is how to re-apply all the lettering on the repainted chassis which is aluminium.
I have investigated a bit and called many firms including 3M but no-one has reverted offering a solution. I local printshop made me a selfadhesive clear sticker as a test and as you can see in the first pic, it looks awful as the label's edges are showing.
The term 'waterslide film' has cropped-up and I have read a bit about methods of use but until now, I have been unable to find any firm using the material.
Any more ideas? Letraset is out as there are too many legends.
Thanks
bulgin
Attachments
Letraset went bust. Their main market was in graphic arts - making up advertisements for photography based plate making for magazine adverts. That's all done on computer now.
However, you can still buy sheets of letters in vrious fonts that work on teh dry transfer principle same as good old Letraset.
One of my coleagues makes up lables on his PC, and prints tham out on a laser printer. He sticks a thin adhesive clear plastic sheet on top of the printout (so the wrting is between the paper and the plastic. He then soaks the printout in detergent for while, and that allows him to remove the paper. He then sticks the plastic down on the chassis. This will have the same problem as the sticker your bought - the outline will be visible.
What I do is apply the dry transfers a' la Letraset letter by letter direct on to the chassis (or front panel). I then spray the whole chassis with spar varnish to passivate it and prevent the dry transfers from rubbing off.
I've also experimented with spray painting through plastic stencils available from arts stores, but the fonts are limitted to large sizes and the results have been dissapointing due to paint bleed. You wouldn't use stencils on a front panels, but for marking tube types, trim-pots etc on the chassis, they would be perfectly fine if I could fix the paint bleed.
There's also a variety of Dymo-style tapes that don't look too bad. The fonts are good.
However, you can still buy sheets of letters in vrious fonts that work on teh dry transfer principle same as good old Letraset.
One of my coleagues makes up lables on his PC, and prints tham out on a laser printer. He sticks a thin adhesive clear plastic sheet on top of the printout (so the wrting is between the paper and the plastic. He then soaks the printout in detergent for while, and that allows him to remove the paper. He then sticks the plastic down on the chassis. This will have the same problem as the sticker your bought - the outline will be visible.
What I do is apply the dry transfers a' la Letraset letter by letter direct on to the chassis (or front panel). I then spray the whole chassis with spar varnish to passivate it and prevent the dry transfers from rubbing off.
I've also experimented with spray painting through plastic stencils available from arts stores, but the fonts are limitted to large sizes and the results have been dissapointing due to paint bleed. You wouldn't use stencils on a front panels, but for marking tube types, trim-pots etc on the chassis, they would be perfectly fine if I could fix the paint bleed.
There's also a variety of Dymo-style tapes that don't look too bad. The fonts are good.
Last edited:
Hi Keit
Thank you. Since writing here, I have been in touch with a local firm specialising in various 'media' as they call it this morning. Contrary to the halfdozen other firms I contacted, they responded to my enquiry and will revert during next week.
This (the legends application) has been a vexing problem for years and has also prevented me from refurbishing the chassis of my Leak Stereo 20.
When a workable solution is found, I will post the details and progress in this thread.
The chassis preparation and repainting is no problem. I have done this many times in the past, using my trusty airbrush which is perfectly capable of working with automotive base coat and clearcoat.
The Pyes have aluminium chassis and undercoat suitable for aluminium must be used such as etch primer for example. Fortunately, there are no rusted through holes to repair.
Regarding Letraset, I owned an advertising design studio during the 70's and 80's and had a large rack filled with many hundreds of Letraset sheets, including brands competitive with Letraset. I still have several Letraset application 'pens' and catalogues but there are just too many letters and numerals to reproduce on these amps.
bulgin
Thank you. Since writing here, I have been in touch with a local firm specialising in various 'media' as they call it this morning. Contrary to the halfdozen other firms I contacted, they responded to my enquiry and will revert during next week.
This (the legends application) has been a vexing problem for years and has also prevented me from refurbishing the chassis of my Leak Stereo 20.
When a workable solution is found, I will post the details and progress in this thread.
The chassis preparation and repainting is no problem. I have done this many times in the past, using my trusty airbrush which is perfectly capable of working with automotive base coat and clearcoat.
The Pyes have aluminium chassis and undercoat suitable for aluminium must be used such as etch primer for example. Fortunately, there are no rusted through holes to repair.
Regarding Letraset, I owned an advertising design studio during the 70's and 80's and had a large rack filled with many hundreds of Letraset sheets, including brands competitive with Letraset. I still have several Letraset application 'pens' and catalogues but there are just too many letters and numerals to reproduce on these amps.
bulgin
Letraset are still in business!
Here is an ebay link
Letraset Rub On Transfer Numbers Letters A5 Sheets mm All Fonts Colours & Sizes | eBay
Here is an ebay link
Letraset Rub On Transfer Numbers Letters A5 Sheets mm All Fonts Colours & Sizes | eBay
An expensive but viable option is dry transfer. Create an 8x10 document in Illustrator using the fonts and logos you like, then the dry transfer company provides you with a film sheet which you use to transfer the text to the plate.
Then spray a satin clear coat over the transfers.
Note that the film sheet below cost me $168. (You could probably get it done cheaper locally?)
Link to the gallery of my M3 build: Project M3 Headphone Amp
Then spray a satin clear coat over the transfers.
Note that the film sheet below cost me $168. (You could probably get it done cheaper locally?)
Link to the gallery of my M3 build: Project M3 Headphone Amp
That is an ebay seller, selling old stock. You don't know how old it is, and Letraset has a limitted shelf life. It's a long shelf life, I have sheets that still work (sort of) after 10 years or more.
I would be very cautious about buying Letraset on eBay.
Thank you for all the advice and links guys. It is much appreciated.
@ Jose R
Incredible work!
The pic shows one of my Letraset application pens from the distant past😀
I had a quick look and found I still have a few Letraset catalogues, as well as one from a competitor - Chartpak. Letraset however was the best brand imo and the local firm I used to buy from was Ozalid, here in Cape Town.
I am talking now to a local firm called Antalis and hope to hear from them next week.
I will post details here of how I will solve the lettering problem.
Regards
bulgin
@ Jose R
Incredible work!
The pic shows one of my Letraset application pens from the distant past😀
I had a quick look and found I still have a few Letraset catalogues, as well as one from a competitor - Chartpak. Letraset however was the best brand imo and the local firm I used to buy from was Ozalid, here in Cape Town.
I am talking now to a local firm called Antalis and hope to hear from them next week.
I will post details here of how I will solve the lettering problem.
Regards
bulgin
Attachments
- Status
- Not open for further replies.