Best way to destroy a Subwoofer

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#43
Just burning up a speaker IMO = boring.

It's more fun to use a big amp maxed out to kill a speaker.

I just killed an old thrown-away 3W 4 inch full range by giving it 100W RMS. It played for a short while, started to smell, then it quit because the coil came unglued from the former and glued itself to the pole piece when it broke open.

If you had a good 300W+ or more of RMS power, that sub probably wouldn't last long. Especially if you clip the amp hard since the max watts becomes the RMS under full distortion. That would be over 600W of coil cooking power. :hot:
 
#48
my friend reversed his pick-up over a bass amp, that worked quite well at destroying the speaker, and the box. amazingly the built in amp survived, with a broken pot being the only damage to it!

as for the pick-up... well the amp fell out the back while he was reversing down a hill. when he stopped the box was already under the diff. so he pulled up the hand brake and let go of the footbrake.

the handbrake doesn't work when the back wheels are in the air :whazzat: :bawling:

trees work well though:bawling: :bawling:
 
#49
pinkmouse said:
Fraud is a criminal offense in most countries. Oh, and what makes you think they won't check? Every damaged driver that I see gets taken apart either for QA purposes, sheer curiosity, or both.
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Did you considered that the OP is being frauded by the supplier. It is quite evident that the subwoofer is unserviceable since day one.

ppia600 said:
Well not thinking that the woofer is going to dissipate a specific wattage at 12vdc I was considering the fact that the woofer will not be moving and therefore won't be able to dissipate the heat. It will burn. They are designed to handle their rated power while moving/circulating air. Now maybe 12vdc won't generate much wattage at 4ohms????
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The woofer is not a motor. It might not burn if connected to 12VDC. However, it might detach with a quite evident damage to the cone, which is what the OP doesn't want.
 
#54
OFF TOPIC: (sorry)

aha, I see. I'm curious to why a dryer that works at 120V needs a 220V output though. Here in Belgium there is a total different system. Industrial dryers work at 3~380Vac. At home it's at 1~230Vac

ON TOPIC:
To destroy the sub: Send it to me, I have 3~380Vac!! LOL

I wonder what would happen if you put a large balast in series with the woofer...
 
#56
mandude said:
Don't dryer outlets (you know, for your clothes dryer) typcially have 220V output?
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despotic931 said:



Yes, but its done with three conductors, one is a ground, and two positives (each rated at 120V)
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junglejuice said:
It would be 120 degrees as it would be 2 of 3 available phases like the rest of the world only the voltages and the frequency change, we have 240v single phase and 415v 3 phase here...
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they are both in the US.
they do not have 220/240Vac like the rest of us.
 
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