Hi,
I've just finished breadboarding Mikael Abdellah's KT88 amp, and everything seems to be working just fine (on the 1st try, woo-hoo!) except for my heater voltage, which is a little bit high. I've measured between 6.5 and 6.6V, depending on line voltage.
What is the best way of lowering it? Just a big fat power resistor, or are there any other, less-brute-force approaches?
thanks,
Rolf
I've just finished breadboarding Mikael Abdellah's KT88 amp, and everything seems to be working just fine (on the 1st try, woo-hoo!) except for my heater voltage, which is a little bit high. I've measured between 6.5 and 6.6V, depending on line voltage.
What is the best way of lowering it? Just a big fat power resistor, or are there any other, less-brute-force approaches?
thanks,
Rolf
Congratulations! I have built this amp (I built mine as monoblocks) and believe you will love it.
The power resistor method is definitely the easiest. With the KT88s drawing 1.6A and the 6N1P pulling 0.6A just make sure it is big enough!
As Eric said you could convert the heaters to DC and use a couple of smaller resistors and some caps to filter the current. However with this design DC heaters aren't at all necessary to have a hum-free amp.
The power resistor method is definitely the easiest. With the KT88s drawing 1.6A and the 6N1P pulling 0.6A just make sure it is big enough!
As Eric said you could convert the heaters to DC and use a couple of smaller resistors and some caps to filter the current. However with this design DC heaters aren't at all necessary to have a hum-free amp.
Tube heaters can take a 10% variance in either direction' so 6.6v is OK. Why bother? And don't tell me about tube life!
If the heater winding is CT to ground then get TWO equal valued resistors (figure out the voltage drop needed for the value) and put one on EACH of the 6.3v windings. This will be best for reducing hum. If one side of the winding is grounded then only one resistor is needed.
Daniel
If the heater winding is CT to ground then get TWO equal valued resistors (figure out the voltage drop needed for the value) and put one on EACH of the 6.3v windings. This will be best for reducing hum. If one side of the winding is grounded then only one resistor is needed.
Daniel
Or use one resistor and place it between ground and the centre tap.danFrank said:
If the heater winding is CT to ground then get TWO equal valued resistors (figure out the voltage drop needed for the value) and put one on EACH of the 6.3v windings. Daniel
Or use one resistor and place it between ground and the centre tap.
There should be no current flowing in the center tap, so a resistor here wouldn't do anything. The center tap is used to create a balanced transmission system (similar to the electric power in the US) so that hum radiation from the filament leads will be equal and out of phase, cancelling out.
This is why you would use two equal resistors to keep things balanced.
Thanks for the replies, everyone!
I'm using AC heaters for now, since a 3.8A DC arrangement would be a little more complicated. The winding is center-tapped/grounded through 2x 220R.
I'll try a resistor on each side of the winding, I just hope I have the right parts around here.
In the primary? Would something from a switched PSU work? I have a couple in the bin, measuring 0.3 ohms each side.
It won't matter if the HT is lowered, it's already 430V (vs. 400V in the schematic).
thanks,
Rolf
I'm using AC heaters for now, since a 3.8A DC arrangement would be a little more complicated. The winding is center-tapped/grounded through 2x 220R.
I'll try a resistor on each side of the winding, I just hope I have the right parts around here.
agent.5 said:Add a common mode choke in the primary.
In the primary? Would something from a switched PSU work? I have a couple in the bin, measuring 0.3 ohms each side.
It won't matter if the HT is lowered, it's already 430V (vs. 400V in the schematic).
thanks,
Rolf
In the primary? Would something from a switched PSU work? I have a couple in the bin, measuring 0.3 ohms each side.
It won't matter if the HT is lowered, it's already 430V (vs. 400V in the schematic).
yes on the primary. Something from a switched PSU should work. Your incoming voltage will drop a bit, consequently your B+ and heater voltages will drop some too.
.6 ohms in series with the primary will not drop much voltage unless you have a seriously hungry amplifier.
Look for an "Inrush Current Limiter". Some data can be found in the DigiKey catalog.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1405.pdf
If you pick the right size you can get a nice slow turn on (easy on the tubes) and drop 4 or 5 volts in the primary circuit.
Look for an "Inrush Current Limiter". Some data can be found in the DigiKey catalog.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T062/1405.pdf
If you pick the right size you can get a nice slow turn on (easy on the tubes) and drop 4 or 5 volts in the primary circuit.
Those inrush limiting resistors look promising. I think I've found one, but I have never used them before so please correct me if I'm wrong:
Imax = 1A
R (25°C) = 5R
R (Imax) = 0.6R
This could be used, no? Since the amp won't actually get near 1A continuously (more like 0.75A), I'm guessing the resistance will be a little more than 0.6R under load?
OR I could use a 0.47R/25W resistor on each leg of the secondary... but that's the easy way out
--
Rolf
Imax = 1A
R (25°C) = 5R
R (Imax) = 0.6R
This could be used, no? Since the amp won't actually get near 1A continuously (more like 0.75A), I'm guessing the resistance will be a little more than 0.6R under load?
OR I could use a 0.47R/25W resistor on each leg of the secondary... but that's the easy way out
--
Rolf
showdown said:OR I could use a 0.47R/25W resistor on each leg of the secondary... but that's the easy way out
2 x 0.47R will drop ~1 volt/amp. Not appropriate for the filament secondary, unless the filament current equals 1 x 12AX7 or something like that..
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