Best cheap/basic caps to me are:
Erse PulseX
Jantzen CrossCaps
GE surplus
ASC MKP
ApexJr. surplus poly/mylar would be a place to shop...
Later,
Wolf
Erse MET's (the yellow ones) are less expensive than the PulseX's. These behave more like NPE's with regard to ESR should you be looking for that kind of performance.
I think Sonicaps are also a very good value in the realm of CC SA's.
Here's a somewhat dated analysis of Tony Gee's cap ratings.
Capacitor voltage rating vs performance - The Kitchen - The Classic Speaker Pages Discussion Forums
I find Sonicaps to be a bit bright or forward. They are good for dull tweeters.
If I'm going to pony up for Sonicaps, my money is better placed in the MultiCap PPMFX for not much more.
Later,
Wolf
If I'm going to pony up for Sonicaps, my money is better placed in the MultiCap PPMFX for not much more.
Later,
Wolf
For their construction and type of cap, The Plus are one of the cheaper boutique models. That is not to say they are inexpensive.
Later,
Wolf
Later,
Wolf
Hi -
I've been out of touch with the capacitor market too long to make a choice, but you could try buying some lower value versions (to save money) & test them in line with a relay or switch circuit. I did that a while back and found how much damage copperweld leads could do to a capacitor's sound.
Generally, solid film electrode versions have shown a sonic advantage for a quality dielectric like polypropylene in my experience, as have well-encased capacitors.
More generally speaking, when I built my phono preamp, for the EQ capacitors, I made my own air dielectric types, of course in the under 1000pf range. Those have been a step above, IMO.
I've been out of touch with the capacitor market too long to make a choice, but you could try buying some lower value versions (to save money) & test them in line with a relay or switch circuit. I did that a while back and found how much damage copperweld leads could do to a capacitor's sound.
Generally, solid film electrode versions have shown a sonic advantage for a quality dielectric like polypropylene in my experience, as have well-encased capacitors.
More generally speaking, when I built my phono preamp, for the EQ capacitors, I made my own air dielectric types, of course in the under 1000pf range. Those have been a step above, IMO.
How do you like them, wolf_teeth, if tested by you?
I've not yet used them. They've only been available to the USA with a stateside vendor since about June of last year. I'd like to be able to have the 'True-copper' caps myself, as those look interesting to me. I have a 1.2uF sample of those, and they are HEAVY! for their size. Can't do much with one, or in a 1.2uF value. The Reference also look nice, and I have a single 3.3uF sample of those, but again- a single is hard to judge. It's a shame we can only buy the Q4 and Plus models over here.
Later,
Wolf
I did that a while back and found how much damage copperweld leads could do to a capacitor's sound.
Interesting! How can you tell what type of lead attachment method is utilized?
sonic advantage ...well-encased capacitors.
I agree.
More generally speaking, when I built my phono preamp, for the EQ capacitors, I made my own air dielectric types, of course in the under 1000pf range. Those have been a step above, IMO.
Impressive! I haven't made that leap yet....
Thanks for the info!
Wolf
Quote:
Originally Posted by thoriated
I did that a while back and found how much damage copperweld leads could do to a capacitor's sound.
Interesting! How can you tell what type of lead attachment method is utilized?
Hi -
Actually, a friend brought them over - they were a well known audiophile brand at the time & we had several other polypropylene and mylar capacitors to check them against (mostly in the 1-10uf range). IAC, these polypropylenes sounded much worse than all the other polypropylenes, even the AC rated capacitors - more in the mylar ball park. I found a small refrigerator magnet and found that the copperweld leads attracted them (due to their steel core), so we cut the leads off, except for about a 1/4" stub at each end of the capacitor, connected them to the test probes, and they now sounded much more similar to the other polypropylene capacitors than the mylars. Everything in my test rig was non-magnetic.
Unfortunately, this happened long enough ago that I don't recall which of the polypropylenes sounded best, but there were some noticeable differences there also.
Originally Posted by thoriated
I did that a while back and found how much damage copperweld leads could do to a capacitor's sound.
Interesting! How can you tell what type of lead attachment method is utilized?
Hi -
Actually, a friend brought them over - they were a well known audiophile brand at the time & we had several other polypropylene and mylar capacitors to check them against (mostly in the 1-10uf range). IAC, these polypropylenes sounded much worse than all the other polypropylenes, even the AC rated capacitors - more in the mylar ball park. I found a small refrigerator magnet and found that the copperweld leads attracted them (due to their steel core), so we cut the leads off, except for about a 1/4" stub at each end of the capacitor, connected them to the test probes, and they now sounded much more similar to the other polypropylene capacitors than the mylars. Everything in my test rig was non-magnetic.
Unfortunately, this happened long enough ago that I don't recall which of the polypropylenes sounded best, but there were some noticeable differences there also.
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I found a small refrigerator magnet and found that the copperweld leads attracted them (due to their steel core), so we cut the leads off, except for about a 1/4" stub at each end of the capacitor, connected them to the test probes, and they now sounded much more similar to the other polypropylene capacitors than the mylars. Everything in my test rig was non-magnetic.
That is info I never thought to try. I will have to see what I have....
Thanks!
Wolf
DC blocking cap (tweeter) in the 50-100uf range: Dayton (type?) VS Clarity PX. I want a value providing minimal "signature" & ZERO reactance above 1.8K hz.
Thnx tony
Thnx tony
A number of us here in Seattle have had good luck with Electrolytic caps parallel with small value Poly by-pass caps. We've won many Speaker Competitions and Contests using these. We've also conducted blind comparisons with Poly caps with Poly bypass and Electro with Poly Bipass caps and statistically it was a wash.
So are Poly caps better than Electro's? Absolutely!
Can you tell the difference between Poly and Poly bi-passed Electros? This is a different story! We've tried this several times and the results are consistantly a wash, although after twenty or thirty years have elapsed, that may no longer be true.
So, if you can the spend money, buy the DeLux Caps (Nobody will blame you), however if money is tight, try the Electro/Poly Bi-pass method. Besides, you can always upgrade later if you wish.
Best Regards,
TerryO
So are Poly caps better than Electro's? Absolutely!
Can you tell the difference between Poly and Poly bi-passed Electros? This is a different story! We've tried this several times and the results are consistantly a wash, although after twenty or thirty years have elapsed, that may no longer be true.
So, if you can the spend money, buy the DeLux Caps (Nobody will blame you), however if money is tight, try the Electro/Poly Bi-pass method. Besides, you can always upgrade later if you wish.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Short and simple. Have been there done that all. The best for the money buy the vintage Siemens MKV caps. Best source is ebay or even cheaper local surplus store. These are big cans oil caps that you can parrarel. I have been through all audiphile caps, most branded, some Russian Pio and many others and the Siemens MKV are unbeatable. Even though few years ago you could buy them for few bucks and now you have to pay some $$ for them they are still one of the best signal caps out there. Do not even bother putting them against anything audiophile that is not world's top 5 capacitors available at any price. Sure you can beat them but you will have to spend few hundreds bucks for a cup to do so and only few world's best brands will do this. You can also check Bosch MP similar caps. They are close to Siemens MKV, I think slightly worse but still superb. All this info above gets really nice when it comes to high values. Above some 10uF even crappy audiophile capacitors get really expensive but you can still get Siemens MKV or Bosch MP in 15-20, 40uF or even 60uF in quite very resonable price.
I still remember Peter Daniel's comments from few years back about connecting his Pass F3 version directly to his expensive ribbon section through Siemens MKV that these were the best highs he ever expirenced regardless of $$$ spent.
Even mid to higher class audiophile caps are poor compared to Siemens MKV, only few the best can compete and only very few the very best are slightly better.
Cheers
I still remember Peter Daniel's comments from few years back about connecting his Pass F3 version directly to his expensive ribbon section through Siemens MKV that these were the best highs he ever expirenced regardless of $$$ spent.
Even mid to higher class audiophile caps are poor compared to Siemens MKV, only few the best can compete and only very few the very best are slightly better.
Cheers
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If you choose to try them you may take into account that you will either have to account the inside capacity of the box for them or put the Xover outside, they are large. But the good thing is I can tell you either 99% or just all of the caps mentioned above will be much worse than Siemens MKV.
Cheers
Cheers
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