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    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
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    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Best Tube for SPUD Amp

thanks shoog
ferite beads are everywhere 1K grid stopper and 100R between plate and screen , i don't suspect oscillation symptom just a damn fast tube🙂
lundahl AM transfo didn't help rounding the edges.. i will see how it goes with the Monolith Magnetic iron
Consider one on the plate pin if you haven't already.

I know what you mean regarding the E55L brightness, I suspect that its due to its really low rp which drives the parasitics better than most SE valves. I have always said that what people report as the SE sound is largely an inability to drive the iron flatly out to beyond 20khz (ie a rolled off response). Is there a recommended zobel for the Lundahl iron to tame resonances ? I have found that resonances out beyond 30khz can cause the sort of sound you are describing.

Shoog
 
This is what I did, just fro reference

Shoog
 

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very interesting shoog , no resistor between plate and screen , paraded bypass cathode resistor. i just don't understand the wiring of your input transformer secondary and the 470K 47n filter from power supply to the grid ?

sound happy do you want me dead ?
The input transformer is simply acting as a autotransformer/grid choke with 1>2 step up, not strictly necessary as I find the gain excessive anyway.
The cathode doesn't need a bypass because the current from the parafeed cap is balanced by the cathode current yielding a zero signal at the cathode (this is a very old trick from the early days of valves).
The screen resistor is mainly there to damp resonances and excessive current in a Class AB situation - since this is a Class A design the current should never peak dangerously so needs no dropper resistor to protect it, the ferrite bead is good enough to prevent oscillation by itself.
The 470K is there to offer a tiny amount of Schade feedback and can be tuned to taste anywhere from 10K up.

Shoog
 
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Shoog, I think I read somewhere that beads are designed to work in specific frequency ranges. If so, what type bead should be used? Regards, HeyBill
I just used salvaged beads from an old Fostex DAT recorder. They consist of a single loop in a rectangular block. They will have a low pass knee and will block everything above that knee.
The issue with these high gm valves is that they have extremely low capacitances and they are designed to work at very high frequencies, the combination of low input capacitance’s, line capacitance’s and inductance’s are liable to turn any lead attached to the pin an antenna for any stray radio frequencies or stray signals from switch mode power supplies or diode spikes in the PSU. The bead just needs to isolate the line from the valve.

Shoog
 
thanks for the tip shoog this morning i have removed the 100R resistor between plate and screen and put a little ferrite bead instead and change the 1K metal film grid stopper resistor with 300R tantale . no oscillation and sounds good too ( like before ) 🙂
 
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thanks for the tip shoog this morning i have removed the 100R resistor between plate and screen and put a little ferrite bead instead and change the 1K metal film grid stopper resistor with 300R tantale . no oscillation and sounds good too ( like before ) 🙂
Try a very simple single loop ferrite on the g1 and see if it softens the sound any.

It might.

Shoog
 
Try a very simple single loop ferrite on the g1 and see if it softens the sound any.

It might.

Shoog

i have already tried , no change at all with grid stopper resistor in place.
after long classic listening i have found that the sound is even better with no resistor between plate and screen ( more pop up dynamics and less grainy) . the lundhal iron don't help i have sold the 1664AM and keep the normal version because of this. i had softer sound with the James 3.5k transformer but with the loss of bandwidth and definition.

no free lunch again 🙂