Best TPA3116D2 Finished board // compilation

Hello,

I have some really nice Wharfedale diamond 9.1 (2*100w) and a TPA3116D2 2.1 + BT + TF + USB + AUX board that i (almost) completely destroyed wanting to change the caps by better Panasonic FM caps (my bad... :eek:).

I really liked the sound of it but some of the well-known almost professional guys of the forum told me that All-in-One board are not the best in terms of sound quality, hiss/noise, conception, etc...

So, I would like to buy a new board as i can't use mine anymore (my bad again !) and thus i would like your advices or opinions on the best TPA3116 boards.

I'm looking after :

- Finished amp, don't want to risk my board again... (I can do a gain mod tho)
- 2.0 OR 2.1 systems, preferably 2.1
- Preferably with Bluetooth (AptX HD)
- speakers are pretty inefficient, need something that can drive them nicely
- no noise or hiss (can mod pot and gain mod)
- good sound obviously

I have already some ideas/suggestions :

- buy again my old board OR This one as i have already the acrylic shell
- AIYIMA A03 2.1 It has everything i want :eek:
- Breeze Audio TPA3116 2*50W (NO BT)
- Breeze Audio TPA3116 2*100W (NO BT) I have seen that it needs an OP amp replacement, not a big deal
- Breeze Audio TPA3116 2*100W (WITH BT)
- AIYIMA acrylic covered board
- SMSL alternatives ? AD-18 / SA-98E / SA-50+ / Q-5 PRO / A6 / A8


I am opened to any viable suggestions and discussion so, feel free to participate to this thread and share your knowledge, ideas, everythings ! :)

Thanks !

Papaya
 
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Here is mine, Stuffed into a motorola surfboard cable modem case with added RCA inputs, speaker binding posts, etc. Im using a 19.4v 5.6a laptop power supply brick but plan on upgrading to a proper 24v supply. After taking these pics, i have since upgraded the 2x 220uf 35v caps to Nichicon KA and am waiting on delivery of 2x 3300uf 35v caps which will be replacing the single ChongX 6800uf cap.


It sounds great. No noise. And either today or tomorrow ill be finishing up a pair of Cyorg Needle TQWT speakers using Dayton RS100-4 drivers. They're built from Baltic Birch Plywood and coming along nicely.
 

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Here is mine, Stuffed into a motorola surfboard cable modem case with added RCA inputs, speaker binding posts, etc. Im using a 19.4v 5.6a laptop power supply brick but plan on upgrading to a proper 24v supply. After taking these pics, i have since upgraded the 2x 220uf 35v caps to Nichicon KA and am waiting on delivery of 2x 3300uf 35v caps which will be replacing the single ChongX 6800uf cap.


It sounds great. No noise. And either today or tomorrow ill be finishing up a pair of Cyorg Needle TQWT speakers using Dayton RS100-4 drivers. They're built from Baltic Birch Plywood and coming along nicely.

Cool little amp, it looks a lot like this AIYIMA amp

Can you explain me how changing the big cap with two little caps will improve something ? Can't you change the big one by a good brand 6800uF 25V cap ?
 
If the caps on your board measure where they should, then i wouldn't touch them. On the board i have, the 220uf caps measured around half that, and i bet that POS ChongX cap will be similar. no point in buying some crazy expensive 'audiophile' caps, just some quality low ESR caps with long lifetime from a manufacturer like Nichicon, Rubycon, Panasonic, Elna, EPCOS, etc. IMO, spending large sums on Mundorf, Audio Note, Audyn, Black Gate, etc is a waste of money. They charge so much for their caps because they're filled with highly refined snake oil.
 
Here are the caps I replaced. Notice the poor consistency in the wrapper. between that and them not measuring properly, i think i made the right choice.



Also, construction of dayton needles are done. I'm just working on trying to get an acceptable finish on the baltic birch plywood. I ended up using a dewaxed shellac seal coat followed by trans-tint coffee dye in alcohol instead of water. Followed by a light application of golden oak stain to give some warm hues to the finish. And lastly General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based varnish in satin.



If it looks like crap, i'll likely use walnut veneer. to rescue the project.
 

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gasolin75

Member
2018-12-08 10:51 am
2x https://www.amazon.co.uk/AIYIMA-TPA...=sr_1_7?keywords=AIYIMA&qid=1571844832&sr=8-7

When using it in PBTL mode it's disabeling the volumecontrol as fare as i remember

Preamp https://www.amazon.co.uk/AIYIMA-TPA...=sr_1_7?keywords=AIYIMA&qid=1571844832&sr=8-7


Ps i have a Douk-Audio g3 that are driving my Wharfedale diamond 225 (85db stereophile) fine with a 24v 6a power supply https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nobsound-B...?keywords=douk+audio+g3&qid=1571845022&sr=8-3

Cheaper solution
Fosi audio old version sale
[Old Version] BT20A Bluetooth 4.2 Stereo Audio 2 Channel Amplifier– Fosi Audio
 
If the caps on your board measure where they should, then i wouldn't touch them. On the board i have, the 220uf caps measured around half that, and i bet that POS ChongX cap will be similar. no point in buying some crazy expensive 'audiophile' caps, just some quality low ESR caps with long lifetime from a manufacturer like Nichicon, Rubycon, Panasonic, Elna, EPCOS

Yeah ahah ! I agree that it's not worth buying really expansive caps. Nichicon, Vishay and others good caps brand are enough expansive like that and are really good quality caps (for example the UFW, UFG and UKA Nichicon). I'm just sure that the caps on the chinese boards are some very low quality caps that doesn't measure correctly and are worth replacing !

I just realized i read what you had said incorrectly and didn't answer your question about using two caps instead of one. Its based on the comments here: TPA3116 2.1 board input voltage capacitor advice

Yes ! after you give me your first answer i checked and found this thread, really interesting !
If I take a "one capacitor" board and there is no soldering hole to put 2 caps, while it be a problem if i change it to a better but "one cap" ? (sorry for my sentence, I hope i'm understandable)


I'm just working on trying to get an acceptable finish on the baltic birch plywood. I ended up using a dewaxed shellac seal coat followed by trans-tint coffee dye in alcohol instead of water. Followed by a light application of golden oak stain to give some warm hues to the finish. And lastly General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil based varnish in satin.

Just to say, i'm building guitars and for natural wood finish i'm oftenly used Birchwood Casey Tru-oil and this is REALLY easy to apply and it give a beautiful finish ! I recommend that.


2x https://www.amazon.co.uk/AIYIMA-TPA3...1844832&sr=8-7

When using it in PBTL mode it's disabeling the volumecontrol as fare as i remember

It looks really like the one i put in suggestion but in a little format

Even the Douk audio PCB layout looks a lot like the AIYIMA A03 (considering the one you showed me is a 2.0 board) and i know this brand is quite good considering the reviews

AIYIMABOARD.png


Thanks for answers

Papaya
 
The 2 mono amps is without any power supply but it seems you have one so you only have to buy one additional power supply

I think 2 of those amps i link to would be more power full with 2 power supplys then one dual amp with only 1 power supply


Thanks for the tips, i didn't know that we can combine to board like that !
Can you explain me that with a scheme please ?
 

gasolin75

Member
2018-12-08 10:51 am
The amp i link to are mono amps so for stereo you need 2 amps

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AIYIMA-TPA...=sr_1_7?keywords=AIYIMA&qid=1571844832&sr=8-7

Also i thing theres a slightly power advantage with 2 amps and 2 power supply than 1 amp and power supply.

You could also experince more with the placement of the amps, behinde,next or on top of the speakers, i alos think short speaker cable and long interconnects is better than the opposite.