Hello...
An input selector is an unfortunate necessity in my Pre/LS project.
Which one would do the least harm (degradation)?
It needs to be rotary style, because I'm committed already in certain design aspects (case/etc).
A source for it would be nice too...
TIA for your thoughts!!!
Greg
An input selector is an unfortunate necessity in my Pre/LS project.
Which one would do the least harm (degradation)?
It needs to be rotary style, because I'm committed already in certain design aspects (case/etc).
A source for it would be nice too...
TIA for your thoughts!!!
Greg
Thank you both for the replies!
Well, I kinda figured it would be expensive, since I said "best"...
Its not an area to skimp, IMHO...
So I might have to compromise lol... but it would help to fully understand the choice.... Like, a hierarchy of bests... lol..
I might wind up having to settle for second best... or maybe even 3rd...
It will depend on the actual cust.... though on the other hand, I might choose to wait a bit longer and save up..
This IS diy after all... 😀
Well, I kinda figured it would be expensive, since I said "best"...
Its not an area to skimp, IMHO...
So I might have to compromise lol... but it would help to fully understand the choice.... Like, a hierarchy of bests... lol..
I might wind up having to settle for second best... or maybe even 3rd...
It will depend on the actual cust.... though on the other hand, I might choose to wait a bit longer and save up..
This IS diy after all... 😀
Not yet...
Still in the early planning stages... But I'm planning to when possible..
Sorry 🙁(
Room behind shouldn't be a problem though..
Might even be able to mount in in the rear near the input connectors on a shaft.... but again, to early to be sure.
Working out those details now..
Thanx tho!!!
Still in the early planning stages... But I'm planning to when possible..
Sorry 🙁(
Room behind shouldn't be a problem though..
Might even be able to mount in in the rear near the input connectors on a shaft.... but again, to early to be sure.
Working out those details now..
Thanx tho!!!
You could use a cheaper selector switch and use a good quality relay located at the rear; less mucking around than an extended shaft.
Tromp has my vote.
Signal relays are reputed to be very good at not degrading the signal.
A very cheap rotary switch could activate your signal relays.
The nice thing about these small signal relays is that they can be mounted almost on the input sockets and feed direct to the output sockets with virtually no wiring. Just a few short PCB traces.
Signal relays are reputed to be very good at not degrading the signal.
A very cheap rotary switch could activate your signal relays.
The nice thing about these small signal relays is that they can be mounted almost on the input sockets and feed direct to the output sockets with virtually no wiring. Just a few short PCB traces.
Apologize for my absence.. things got hectic....
Wow, relays.... kewl idea!
Can you explain how to impliment? What kind to use?
Thnx...
As to the conventional rotaries.. Please see/vote in the new poll!!!
(also plz feel free to mention why)
Wow, relays.... kewl idea!
Can you explain how to impliment? What kind to use?
Thnx...
As to the conventional rotaries.. Please see/vote in the new poll!!!
(also plz feel free to mention why)
Relays are easy to use. People have different opinions as to which brand/model to use. I use Omron G6K type. They are among the smallest signal relays available. Another choice frequently seen is Fujitsu-Takamisawa signal relays.
To use the relays you need a PCB to mount them. I designed a simple PCB for 4 channel selector but there are many other options. I control mine using arduino but it can as well be control using cheap rotary switch which just selects which relay gets energized.
Regards,
Oleg
Thats very helpful!
Thank you!
I'll have to study up now....
Oh... you dont' by chance have that PCB available for purchase???? 😀
Thanks again..
Thank you!
I'll have to study up now....
Oh... you dont' by chance have that PCB available for purchase???? 😀
Thanks again..
I do🙂 See the last item in my signature for details. You would need just one input selector PCB without the control board.
Regards,
Oleg
The specs for degrees of travel will, most likely, be on a website for the switch you choose, like this;
CK1036 | Rotary Switch, 4 Way, Solder Tab | Lorlin
It shows 30 degree indexing, therefore, four positions is 90 degrees. Good quality for less than four bucks in Oz.
CK1036 | Rotary Switch, 4 Way, Solder Tab | Lorlin
It shows 30 degree indexing, therefore, four positions is 90 degrees. Good quality for less than four bucks in Oz.
I prefer this one, because I have it. Big and heavy, you need more torque than small selector but you can feel it.
TKD Ko-on 2R6-A, 2 pole 6 way Selector Switch | Hifi Collective
TKD Ko-on 2R6-A, 2 pole 6 way Selector Switch | Hifi Collective
