Hey all quick question, what is the go to product now for bolting drivers in..
In tge past i have used T Nuts but the locking prongs just tend to bend when being used MDF. Are the screw in nuts any good or do they just rip out/ turn?
They are just 12inch drivers, attached to a 36mm of mdf front panel...
In tge past i have used T Nuts but the locking prongs just tend to bend when being used MDF. Are the screw in nuts any good or do they just rip out/ turn?
They are just 12inch drivers, attached to a 36mm of mdf front panel...
If you want to use bolts (cetrtai nly suggested for MDF< less critical with good plywood) the threaded insert is much superior to the T-Nut (which i hate due to issues similar to yours)
dave
dave
Any brand or link you can recommend based bon your experience ? I'm gong to use mdf and I want the option to use it as a "service" at least on the woofer
My experience is seeing them installed, and using them.
Never had to actually source any. Any reliable hardware source that supplies a suitable size and threads for your needs.
dave
Never had to actually source any. Any reliable hardware source that supplies a suitable size and threads for your needs.
dave
What I do is first hammer the T-nuts and before attaching the driver I fasten them with a self made gig of a Umbrako screw & large nuts.
I also staple leather or carton on the backside, so they don't fall into the box.
I also staple leather or carton on the backside, so they don't fall into the box.
A type "D" threaded insert is in my experience the best choice.
A guide to Threaded Inserts & T-Nuts
Flange faces out.
A guide to Threaded Inserts & T-Nuts
Flange faces out.
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all of these problems caused by MDF 🙂
i never use mdf, only hard plywood on my build and no issue using Tnuts or screw. maybe you can use mdf on side walls but use hard plywood on the panel where you want to attach the driver.
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I also have had issues with T nuts. I started using a small screw on the backside to hold the T nut in place so it wont spin or fall out.
My solution (when I used them) was to make some small holes as a guide so that the eyelashes do not bend.
And epoxy resin before nailing them.
Then I decided to use common wood screws, the trick is to make the hole a bit smaller, remove the screw, and apply synthetic glue to seal the threads. But this is not my invention .....
See : " Screws for mounting drivers "
Tips and ideas Copyright 2012-14
And epoxy resin before nailing them.
Then I decided to use common wood screws, the trick is to make the hole a bit smaller, remove the screw, and apply synthetic glue to seal the threads. But this is not my invention .....
See : " Screws for mounting drivers "
Tips and ideas Copyright 2012-14
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I have used the E-Z LOK - 901032 threaded inserts very often for attaching furniture legs and also woofers. See photo. I like them very much, but mostly that's been in 3/4" ply. They come in different sizes of course, and also without the flange (I think)
I recently used some of the brass threaded inserts from Lowes. They look very pretty and have nice threads, but I found them much more difficult to use than the E-Z LOK.
I recently used some of the brass threaded inserts from Lowes. They look very pretty and have nice threads, but I found them much more difficult to use than the E-Z LOK.
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Here the installation of 18 " twoofers, the screws are used to fix roof sheets, they are" self-drilling ", but it was a very great risk that a bad maneuver would break the speaker cone.
So I made the previous hole, I put the screws fully, took them out and applied vinyl glue. Once dry, I screwed everything with a cricket wrench. In this case, the MDF is 30mm. I had put the net that you can see in the photos so that the polyfill did not interfere with the movement of the cone. A short time ago I decided to remove this net and the plastic seals, because the speaker would have already molded into the filling material and I had been left with the idea that the seals could loosen (that part of the basket is slightly trapezoidal).
In short, the screws were put in and out four times and the "threads" did not suffer any damage. So the method is efficient, and much simpler than any type of insert or "T" nuts. 😉
So I made the previous hole, I put the screws fully, took them out and applied vinyl glue. Once dry, I screwed everything with a cricket wrench. In this case, the MDF is 30mm. I had put the net that you can see in the photos so that the polyfill did not interfere with the movement of the cone. A short time ago I decided to remove this net and the plastic seals, because the speaker would have already molded into the filling material and I had been left with the idea that the seals could loosen (that part of the basket is slightly trapezoidal).
In short, the screws were put in and out four times and the "threads" did not suffer any damage. So the method is efficient, and much simpler than any type of insert or "T" nuts. 😉
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Thanks for all the comments..
I went with flanged, threaded inserts, 6mm hole for the bolts and then drilled 20mm into the back of the baffle with an 8mm bit.
I threaded the insert onto the bolt so that when the insert was screwed into the baffle it remained in true alignment with the bolt ie it was turning / threading down the bolt as i screwed in the insert...
Once the insert was about 6mm in i applied a small amount of glue ( selley's power grip) And sent it home.... nothing is falling out...
I went with flanged, threaded inserts, 6mm hole for the bolts and then drilled 20mm into the back of the baffle with an 8mm bit.
I threaded the insert onto the bolt so that when the insert was screwed into the baffle it remained in true alignment with the bolt ie it was turning / threading down the bolt as i screwed in the insert...
Once the insert was about 6mm in i applied a small amount of glue ( selley's power grip) And sent it home.... nothing is falling out...
