Oh, I don't know. I "play" with thingies that are a magnitude below. And "at home"
i.e. for me a 6.5" is woofer, and a big one! My last system has a 2" Aurasound driver for midrange, go figure. OH, no, that was 2 years ago...now I have a 3 " ( Scan 10F) but in a different system.
i.e. for me a 6.5" is woofer, and a big one! My last system has a 2" Aurasound driver for midrange, go figure. OH, no, that was 2 years ago...now I have a 3 " ( Scan 10F) but in a different system.
Uhmm...hostile environment! You cannot cover the glass windows of course, which occupy most of the area in the "cockpit".
So no real use of any damping except the things you mentioned.
So no real use of any damping except the things you mentioned.
Yeah well if you don't need loud, a 6.5" will do plenty in a good enclosure.
And smaller midranges should sound better because of their smaller moving mass.
But as I said I need them to keep up with a 15" and 3000W.
For a reference my home setup is a pair of b&w dm602s3 with phase plugs and custom crossovers. Those have 7" woofers/midrange. These have 2x120W.
Then I have a 15" Ultimax in a front loaded horn tuned to 22Hz (cinema F-20)
And smaller midranges should sound better because of their smaller moving mass.
But as I said I need them to keep up with a 15" and 3000W.
For a reference my home setup is a pair of b&w dm602s3 with phase plugs and custom crossovers. Those have 7" woofers/midrange. These have 2x120W.
Then I have a 15" Ultimax in a front loaded horn tuned to 22Hz (cinema F-20)
Well... if you truly are out of your mind (from what it sounds like, you are), I'll throw out the idea of a Volt VM752. Costly, but you asked for "best midrange for an active 3-way".
Also, don't be one of those guys who's car is so loud that it's distracting / annoying to people nearby. I know that I'm too young to be this cranky, but it drives me nuts when some d***wad drives by at 2:00 AM with their fart boxes blaring at full power.
Also, don't be one of those guys who's car is so loud that it's distracting / annoying to people nearby. I know that I'm too young to be this cranky, but it drives me nuts when some d***wad drives by at 2:00 AM with their fart boxes blaring at full power.
Well I hadn't really considered dome midranges. I mean the volt looks good, but 500€....
If you know of any cheap dome midranges, that would be nice.
My budget for midranges was around 100€. I know it's not much but it should be enough to start.
Yeah I turn down the volume when I'm in a town or something in the evening.
I know many of those who use their fart boxes at 2:00AM, but I try not to be one of them.
That's also a small part why I'm trying to deviate myself from them with SQ.
If you know of any cheap dome midranges, that would be nice.
My budget for midranges was around 100€. I know it's not much but it should be enough to start.
Yeah I turn down the volume when I'm in a town or something in the evening.
I know many of those who use their fart boxes at 2:00AM, but I try not to be one of them.
That's also a small part why I'm trying to deviate myself from them with SQ.
They asks for very high LF-MF crossover point where you can't provide needed directivity coupling with woofers in a car. So dome mids are good, but not in your case.
I urge you to reconsider what you are doing to yourself. In my 20s I listened to all the lovely prog rock on a pair of Tannoy Gold Lancasters with a 10+10 amp which must have given me 103+dB in my bedsit, but we all got high and were oblivious to what we may have been doing to ourselves.
Later, in about 2000, and in my 50s, I still used to do this with ATCs, and measured 113dB at 30 ft in my lounge, which is quite large by British standards. Then I realised that whilst it does make sound clearer because of the Fletcher-Munsen curves, what was really wanted was clarity not high spls.
The internal volume of a car is way less than most lounges, and so needs far less power to produce high spls.
You may have a 'live now pay later' view on life, but I suggest that from my experience, with a loss above 5k in my right ear and 9k in the left, and with excruciating hyperacusis provoked when a siren passes in the street, that you re-consider.
Later, in about 2000, and in my 50s, I still used to do this with ATCs, and measured 113dB at 30 ft in my lounge, which is quite large by British standards. Then I realised that whilst it does make sound clearer because of the Fletcher-Munsen curves, what was really wanted was clarity not high spls.
The internal volume of a car is way less than most lounges, and so needs far less power to produce high spls.
You may have a 'live now pay later' view on life, but I suggest that from my experience, with a loss above 5k in my right ear and 9k in the left, and with excruciating hyperacusis provoked when a siren passes in the street, that you re-consider.
Okay, the power was planned for Alpine type R components, with an 88dB/m sensitivity.
500W per door with PA speakers in a car is excessive, but the headroom can't hurt?
And once again, I'm aiming for a flat response, so raising the level in nulls is pretty useful if it helps.
My hearing still goes to 18kHz, but my dad's did only go to 6kHz. :/
But just for short moments it is pretty impressive and exciting to turn up the volume.
500W per door with PA speakers in a car is excessive, but the headroom can't hurt?
And once again, I'm aiming for a flat response, so raising the level in nulls is pretty useful if it helps.
My hearing still goes to 18kHz, but my dad's did only go to 6kHz. :/
But just for short moments it is pretty impressive and exciting to turn up the volume.
What I've found is that 6.5" mids would best suite my application and price range.
It will be hard to mount them and aim them correctly, but it looks like there should be enough space.
Moreover, even 3-4" modern powerful mids like FRS8M can suit your demands if not push them hard.
You mean the visaton FRS8M ?
It looks to play good and is very cheap, but I don't know if it would fit with the 10"s.
And I think with such low sensitivity I would break 30W easily with music.
It looks to play good and is very cheap, but I don't know if it would fit with the 10"s.
And I think with such low sensitivity I would break 30W easily with music.
PRV has this modest priced 6" in 4 ohm
6MR400-4 BULLET - 6" Mid Range Bullet Loudspeaker - PRV Audio
datasheet
https://prvaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/PRV-Audio-6MR400-4-BULLET-Datasheet.pdf
6MR400-4 BULLET - 6" Mid Range Bullet Loudspeaker - PRV Audio
datasheet
https://prvaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/PRV-Audio-6MR400-4-BULLET-Datasheet.pdf
Yes I had looked at this one. Problem is, it is American.
I couldn't find any place in Europe that sells this, not even an ebay listing.
I wouldn't want to go through the hassle of shipping speakers from the US here and pay extra taxes etc.
I just found this one :
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15m-4624g00.pdf
It's a tiny bit smaller than a 6.5" driver. Requires very little air space.
Low Mms and Le.
Biggest problem is the dip at 1,5k and 3kHz.
But I've heard good results from people and Impulse audio on yt made a video of it with good data.
https://www.scan-speak.dk/datasheet/pdf/15m-4624g00.pdf
It's a tiny bit smaller than a 6.5" driver. Requires very little air space.
Low Mms and Le.
Biggest problem is the dip at 1,5k and 3kHz.
But I've heard good results from people and Impulse audio on yt made a video of it with good data.
Or how do you think a line array of midranges would work in a car?
Like if I put 2-4x 3" midranges?
Because then the total SPL and power handling could come up to my demands.
e.g. FaitalPRO 3FE25
It's 12,5€ a piece, so 4 per side would be 100€.
But 2 or 3 per side could work also?
But could a line-array work in a car?
I could put them in a box on the dash or maybe on top of each other on the A-pillar.
Like if I put 2-4x 3" midranges?
Because then the total SPL and power handling could come up to my demands.
e.g. FaitalPRO 3FE25
It's 12,5€ a piece, so 4 per side would be 100€.
But 2 or 3 per side could work also?
But could a line-array work in a car?
I could put them in a box on the dash or maybe on top of each other on the A-pillar.
Or how about closed back drivers?
Celestion TF0615MR or TF0510MR
Same price as faitals.
No enclosure needed, only baffle ring.
High SPL, lower gain on amp, more headroom, less distortion.
And they play just the range I need.
Celestion TF0615MR or TF0510MR
Same price as faitals.
No enclosure needed, only baffle ring.
High SPL, lower gain on amp, more headroom, less distortion.
And they play just the range I need.
Hi, the graph of the freq. response together with the impedance tracing suggests that you are wrong someway...How come there's a peak in SPL at Fs ?
I'm referring to the Celestion TF0615MR
Also a 2nd and 3rd harmonic dist. graph would be helpful.
Not that I advocate the measurement as a must, but there are some evidences in some cases that have their reason to be.
I'm referring to the Celestion TF0615MR
Also a 2nd and 3rd harmonic dist. graph would be helpful.
Not that I advocate the measurement as a must, but there are some evidences in some cases that have their reason to be.