I have read a lot of threads so forgive me if I missed seeing answers to these questions.
As time and budget permits I want to build some higher end mono, will try stereo for the mains at first, D class amps but for now looking into just buying a ZA3 without PS and using a Mean Well I can later use, or not, hopefully so, in building higher end amps.
I will eventually want at least 4 mono channels, maybe more and look into DIY PS's as well.
For now using the ZA3 in stereo, upgraded op amps, balanced line out, looking at these PS units.
Mean Well
HRP 450-48
HRP 600-48
I have seen where at least one seemingly knowledgeable user, on another forum, preferred the Mean Well HRP 450-36 as said the amp cleaner on the lower voltage.
I have seen here on the XRK 3255 thread where one member plans to use a different MW, I do not know why or if it is better or not.
Any help here would be greatly appreciated, been without a good system during our remodeling so going to dig out some older KEF line arrays I had in our long sold Toy Hauler and figure out a little sub setup.
Thanks!
Rick
As time and budget permits I want to build some higher end mono, will try stereo for the mains at first, D class amps but for now looking into just buying a ZA3 without PS and using a Mean Well I can later use, or not, hopefully so, in building higher end amps.
I will eventually want at least 4 mono channels, maybe more and look into DIY PS's as well.
For now using the ZA3 in stereo, upgraded op amps, balanced line out, looking at these PS units.
Mean Well
HRP 450-48
HRP 600-48
I have seen where at least one seemingly knowledgeable user, on another forum, preferred the Mean Well HRP 450-36 as said the amp cleaner on the lower voltage.
I have seen here on the XRK 3255 thread where one member plans to use a different MW, I do not know why or if it is better or not.
Any help here would be greatly appreciated, been without a good system during our remodeling so going to dig out some older KEF line arrays I had in our long sold Toy Hauler and figure out a little sub setup.
Thanks!
Rick
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If there is a better PS for a reason able price do let me know, please🙂
Also if the Fosi PS is really great let me know as well, I just figured there would be better options like a Mean Well.
Thanks,
Rick
Also if the Fosi PS is really great let me know as well, I just figured there would be better options like a Mean Well.
Thanks,
Rick
Ive been testing and running the LOP600-48
Zero complaints. I designed another 3255 case just for it's mounting compactness as well.
Zero complaints. I designed another 3255 case just for it's mounting compactness as well.
I would think the HLG-150H-36A is a bit light weight for a 3255 unless not having much energy for serious bass, there than that probably great.
I saw the LPO600-48 post you made and was going to send a PM asking about it, thanks for the post here🙂
I am considering 4 Fosi ZA3 amps in mono, two for the mains and two for subs, mains could get by with a more modest PS but I would still go with at least the 450-36 version and then at least the 600-48 for subs though not sure they can handle my 15" subs but not going to pound on them in the RV.
I might end up with something like RP dual 12's, OB 12's, etc, in stereo as I prefer, I know, lots of reasons why stereo is not often considered needed in subs but having done so and loved the results, I plan to do it and super easy with how I am building the system, might as well so easy.
Looking into all ZA3 for much larger surface area for cooling. This will have to be done over time as the remodel takes precedence of my time and funds, hope to finish it by late fall, finally!
Speaking of which, I better get back to working on it🙂
Thanks!
Rick
I saw the LPO600-48 post you made and was going to send a PM asking about it, thanks for the post here🙂
I am considering 4 Fosi ZA3 amps in mono, two for the mains and two for subs, mains could get by with a more modest PS but I would still go with at least the 450-36 version and then at least the 600-48 for subs though not sure they can handle my 15" subs but not going to pound on them in the RV.
I might end up with something like RP dual 12's, OB 12's, etc, in stereo as I prefer, I know, lots of reasons why stereo is not often considered needed in subs but having done so and loved the results, I plan to do it and super easy with how I am building the system, might as well so easy.
Looking into all ZA3 for much larger surface area for cooling. This will have to be done over time as the remodel takes precedence of my time and funds, hope to finish it by late fall, finally!
Speaking of which, I better get back to working on it🙂
Thanks!
Rick
If you look at the datasheet for the TPA3255, you can see a graph of the input voltage vs the output power for various speaker impedance. I would look at that and try to determine the lowest voltage you can use that still meets your power requirements. Most of the various boards I have seen tend to have 50V capacitors on the rails, so for me running 48V on one of those is asking for trouble. I personally plan to run 36V on my subwoofer plate amp that will use the same chip.
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Thanks, much appreciated!
The za3 has 63 volt caps so can handle a bit more PS voltage, not sure about the future higher end builds I want to play with but I can always build with or swap to higher voltage caps if needed.
Speakers I am building will be around 6 ohms, subs around 4 ohms, not considering actual measurements and curve.
Have you tried 48 volts, or so, compared to 32, 36, etc to see if any difference in in the sound quality of the output? I do not care so much about measurements as I do about actual audible differences.
The za3 has 63 volt caps so can handle a bit more PS voltage, not sure about the future higher end builds I want to play with but I can always build with or swap to higher voltage caps if needed.
Speakers I am building will be around 6 ohms, subs around 4 ohms, not considering actual measurements and curve.
Have you tried 48 volts, or so, compared to 32, 36, etc to see if any difference in in the sound quality of the output? I do not care so much about measurements as I do about actual audible differences.
I actually haven’t tried it yet myself. I’m still finishing a big LM3886 based build I’ve been tinkering with for two years. I’ll be open sourcing the entire project when it’s done, PCBs and code, which is soon. Once it’s finished I’ll be playing with the TPA3255 in it as well as I want to compare it.
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Amp building is new to me, rebuilt a Stereo 70 decades ago, built speakers on and off for close to 60 years, first was a Karsonator type design and I had no clue as to what I was doing but it sounded good to me back then🙂
Not sure how much I will get into it, not much room to build things until I build my little shop, for now work outside when weather permits under a canopy for wood working. I do some welding outside as well, not the best place for doing quality work.
I do not know anything about the LM3886, I am going to go look into it a bit right now just for fun.
Looks like you spend quite a bit of time on amp builds, cool🙂
Rick
Back already, LM3886 is an AB amp, now I know. I like AB, A, H, Tube, etc but need to conserve energy and heat control so going class D.
Not sure how much I will get into it, not much room to build things until I build my little shop, for now work outside when weather permits under a canopy for wood working. I do some welding outside as well, not the best place for doing quality work.
I do not know anything about the LM3886, I am going to go look into it a bit right now just for fun.
Looks like you spend quite a bit of time on amp builds, cool🙂
Rick
Back already, LM3886 is an AB amp, now I know. I like AB, A, H, Tube, etc but need to conserve energy and heat control so going class D.
Yah lm3886 is a great chip that sounds amazing, but more and more people rave about the tpa32xx chips so I’m curious to try as well. I’ve been working on my own pcb for that for my amp that is nearly ready.
actual audible differences....no, but running tpa3255 48v in small case is asking for trouble, you can browse fosi v3 mono review, some have burnt, some other last in couple month, unless you change the heatsink, put a hole in case or put a fan i think they will not last that long.
Meanwell has some nice fanless PS from the UHP line that would work well:
UHP-500-48
UHP-750-48
UHP-1000-48
For audio reproduction, the PS does not really need to support the maximum power that the amp module can deliver because of the crest factor of the music signal but it doesn't hurt to have some "extra" reserve either! For example, there is even a 1500 W version. I have one of these that I will be using to build an 8-channel TPA3255 amp from the 3E-audio modules when I can finally get around to putting it together (have all the parts, but they are still boxed up after a big move). That is only about 185W per channel from the PS, but since it will be running a multi-channel active loudspeaker I know that some channels will not be consuming all that much actual power (e.g. the tweeter channels).
If you are going to all of the trouble to make a nice amp, do you want to risk the sound from a loud PS fan?
UHP-500-48
UHP-750-48
UHP-1000-48
For audio reproduction, the PS does not really need to support the maximum power that the amp module can deliver because of the crest factor of the music signal but it doesn't hurt to have some "extra" reserve either! For example, there is even a 1500 W version. I have one of these that I will be using to build an 8-channel TPA3255 amp from the 3E-audio modules when I can finally get around to putting it together (have all the parts, but they are still boxed up after a big move). That is only about 185W per channel from the PS, but since it will be running a multi-channel active loudspeaker I know that some channels will not be consuming all that much actual power (e.g. the tweeter channels).
If you are going to all of the trouble to make a nice amp, do you want to risk the sound from a loud PS fan?
I figured all the tiny 3255 amps were not the best way to go, the ZA3 has to be better thermally but perhaps not as good as it should be?
Fanless, I will look into those PS more, makes sense. I spent a lot of time and funds building a fast yet pretty dang quiet SFF PC using great fans and water cooling, fan tuning, etc.
I have a space behind each side of my desk I can mount amps onto the wall, plenty of air flow, so they do not have to be pretty, just effectively cool, I might even use SFF cases and try some fans and filters to keep them clean, hmmmm got me thinking again, on no!!! 🙂
I just need one stereo amp for now to get my system up and running, been apart far to long, might get the ZA3 at least as a temp solution.
Thanks, much appreciated!
Rick
Fanless, I will look into those PS more, makes sense. I spent a lot of time and funds building a fast yet pretty dang quiet SFF PC using great fans and water cooling, fan tuning, etc.
I have a space behind each side of my desk I can mount amps onto the wall, plenty of air flow, so they do not have to be pretty, just effectively cool, I might even use SFF cases and try some fans and filters to keep them clean, hmmmm got me thinking again, on no!!! 🙂
I just need one stereo amp for now to get my system up and running, been apart far to long, might get the ZA3 at least as a temp solution.
Thanks, much appreciated!
Rick
Indeed, the design flaw of the small cases are their enclosed ovens they are mounted in. Even then A04 and A07 case bottoms would build up heat because from factory the boards are not allowed to breathe unless holes are drilled in the bottom as well.
I just open those tiny case to release the heat...even my v3 mono had no front cover (the whole body is heat sink so i cant remove it), turn it up side down (the chip is underneath so the heat can release quickly). Yes its ugly but who cares? Had Aiyima A07 and fosi v3 mono like this, had no interference with the audio signal even my GPU is a meter away, the main problem is just dust
I have a huge dust problem here. High desert, often high winds and we like to have out windows open and use passive cooling as much as we can. I also removed the two roof mounted AC units and rebuild the end of the RV and made a custom mount for what used to be window mounted, small, super effective Evap cooler. It pulls are through thick water soaked paper filters so not to much dust there but we only turn it on as needed, rest of the time, windows open. I am looking into very fine window screens that block pollen to see if a viable solution.
It is why I spent a lot of time getting the PC to be dust free and use a 280mm AIO in it, ducted air flow as much as I can, fine nylon mesh filters and high pressure fans that are also very quiet. That could actually work on my amp setup, not the AIO, well that could work but likely overkill. I can make a dual mono amp or triple, etc...behind each side of the desk to power the mains, bi amp or try amp them, depends on what I can get to work the best in our restricted space and then sub amp channels. I am liking this idea the more I think about it🙂
Everything is close together being it an RV, my desk is at the rear below a big Anderson window, book shelves will be above and to the sides of the window, TV folds down from ceiling(we seldom watch TV) subs built into the corners on each side of the desk, mains in front of subs. PC will sit on desk along with steamer, DAC, etc, Desk is only 24" deep, will be either 54 or 60" wide. Two Herman Miller metal file cabinets, very modern looking and 2CM green Brazilian soapstone top.
I brought in two dedicated double shielded 20 amp circuits for the audio, forgot to do separate circuit for the PC so have to add it in next.
I love doing all this stuff, hope to finish the RV this year, a lot of cabinets to build, more insulation as bringing up the walls to R21, ceiling R28, floors around R30 then engineered hardwood flooring on the walls and ceiling, cork on the floor.
Rick
It is why I spent a lot of time getting the PC to be dust free and use a 280mm AIO in it, ducted air flow as much as I can, fine nylon mesh filters and high pressure fans that are also very quiet. That could actually work on my amp setup, not the AIO, well that could work but likely overkill. I can make a dual mono amp or triple, etc...behind each side of the desk to power the mains, bi amp or try amp them, depends on what I can get to work the best in our restricted space and then sub amp channels. I am liking this idea the more I think about it🙂
Everything is close together being it an RV, my desk is at the rear below a big Anderson window, book shelves will be above and to the sides of the window, TV folds down from ceiling(we seldom watch TV) subs built into the corners on each side of the desk, mains in front of subs. PC will sit on desk along with steamer, DAC, etc, Desk is only 24" deep, will be either 54 or 60" wide. Two Herman Miller metal file cabinets, very modern looking and 2CM green Brazilian soapstone top.
I brought in two dedicated double shielded 20 amp circuits for the audio, forgot to do separate circuit for the PC so have to add it in next.
I love doing all this stuff, hope to finish the RV this year, a lot of cabinets to build, more insulation as bringing up the walls to R21, ceiling R28, floors around R30 then engineered hardwood flooring on the walls and ceiling, cork on the floor.
Rick
The AC units combined had a current draw of 24 amps, the Evap cools better, more comfortable and less noise and draws 1.5 amps. It does use water but not a large amount as recirculates it. Our electric bill, parked for remodeling and might just stay permanently, around $40 in summer, $50-60 in winter. LPG furnace hard on fuel so now using a great double wall cast iron wood stove that burns really clean.
Yes , lowest distortion at 34-36 V , sounds better and better ability to drive low impedance speakers (if the power supply can deliver the current needed.) 8A for stereo is fine, or 5A for each mono tpa:s.
Thanks!
I have decided to build the Frugel-Horn Jain with MA200 full range drivers and my great Baby Sophia 10 watt push pull tube amp will be plenty of power for them. Later on I want to build something like a tube front end D class amp, might add subs and go straight D class on them, etc...
It seems running one of the low cost D class amps on the lower voltage with good current capacity makes the most sense and still might be a good idea to increase cooling capacity as well.
Rick
I have decided to build the Frugel-Horn Jain with MA200 full range drivers and my great Baby Sophia 10 watt push pull tube amp will be plenty of power for them. Later on I want to build something like a tube front end D class amp, might add subs and go straight D class on them, etc...
It seems running one of the low cost D class amps on the lower voltage with good current capacity makes the most sense and still might be a good idea to increase cooling capacity as well.
Rick