I'm currently on my first project, a pair of 2-way bookshelfs using Seas drivers.
I'm been reading a lot of stuff on Troels Gravesen and other sites about diffraction and believe diffraction is a integral part in the dispersion of tweeters. I will flush mount the tweeter and flare off the edges of baffle.
Anyone had good results from using rubberised paint, Houston finishes, cork or even having a left to right curve on top of the baffle. Thanks.
I'm been reading a lot of stuff on Troels Gravesen and other sites about diffraction and believe diffraction is a integral part in the dispersion of tweeters. I will flush mount the tweeter and flare off the edges of baffle.
Anyone had good results from using rubberised paint, Houston finishes, cork or even having a left to right curve on top of the baffle. Thanks.
Rubbers are unlikely to absorb very well. Thick felt is pretty good.
It's worth experimenting with the geometry of the absorber- in my last MTMs, thick felt strips with spaces between them worked better than a uniform felt treatment. I've also seen people use star-shaped cut-outs and stepped layers, which seem to be excellent ideas.
It's worth experimenting with the geometry of the absorber- in my last MTMs, thick felt strips with spaces between them worked better than a uniform felt treatment. I've also seen people use star-shaped cut-outs and stepped layers, which seem to be excellent ideas.
Thanks sy i'll stay away from rubbers then, do u mean the thick felt like on lots of dj loudspeakers?
I quite like the idea of strips of felt rather than all over and an oval around the tweeter covered in felt could be worth considering, i dont like the idea of steps tho this link from Troels Gravesen kind of puts me off http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/images/diffdem.gif
I quite like the idea of strips of felt rather than all over and an oval around the tweeter covered in felt could be worth considering, i dont like the idea of steps tho this link from Troels Gravesen kind of puts me off http://www.silcom.com/~aludwig/images/diffdem.gif
I understand you don't want to go this route. I used some and it really tamed down sibulance in my case, I covered large areas including baffle edges. speaker carpet - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free.
The stuff for dj is a little different, it has a vinyl under ply.
Chances are you have ventured across this it goes over felt, driver alignment steps among other. Not for the faint of heart (it ain't too pretty) Diffraction Doesn't Have to be a Problem
The stuff for dj is a little different, it has a vinyl under ply.
Chances are you have ventured across this it goes over felt, driver alignment steps among other. Not for the faint of heart (it ain't too pretty) Diffraction Doesn't Have to be a Problem
I understand you don't want to go this route. I used some and it really tamed down sibulance in my case, I covered large areas including baffle edges. speaker carpet - Parts Express Ships Fast and Ships Free.
The stuff for dj is a little different, it has a vinyl under ply.
Chances are you have ventured across this it goes over felt, driver alignment steps among other. Not for the faint of heart (it ain't too pretty) Diffraction Doesn't Have to be a Problem
I dont really mind the felt tbh if it made a improvement in sound, am not too fussed on the look, thanks for pointing out the dj felt is different.
I came across that link only a few days ago thats what made me think about felt strips, am i right in thinking the felt cant be painted or dyed?
You may get away with using some type of dye. Paints on the other hand will dry to a hard shell changing its composition. I cant see it being as effective. Check out some fabric shops for dyes, they may even carry pre dyed felt that's suitable.
Painting would certainly make it more reflective. RIT dye is cheap and won't affect the material acoustically
I use a black dye at work for spraying car floor carpets i could give it go and have a try in different positions around the tweeter like your link.
I always thought why the likes of Harbeth can get away with their baffles and still sound good but later learned their crossovers were designed with it in mind.
I've got to redesign my xover anyway so do you think i should finish my baffle first?
I always thought why the likes of Harbeth can get away with their baffles and still sound good but later learned their crossovers were designed with it in mind.
I've got to redesign my xover anyway so do you think i should finish my baffle first?
Painting would certainly make it more reflective. RIT dye is cheap and won't affect the material acoustically
Thanks i will look it up
I use a black dye at work for spraying car floor carpets i could give it go and have a try in different positions around the tweeter like your link.
I always thought why the likes of Harbeth can get away with their baffles and still sound good but later learned their crossovers were designed with it in mind.
I've got to redesign my xover anyway so do you think i should finish my baffle first?
Make baffle, measure, on and off axis. Add dampening, measure using same criteria in previous test. Compare preliminary results. Tweak, tweak and tweak again with even more measurements. Design crossover accordingly.
What about Harbeth speakers? They don't use felt or rounded edges. The edges are stepped which I would have thought makes diffraction worse. Maybe diffraction is not always bad. Harbeth are highly rated by audiophiles.
Precisely my point about the Herbeths, no rounded edges or felt i presumed it would make the diffraction worse, yet the xover was designed to somehow not make diffraction a problem or so i presume hence the high regards from audiophiles, or like you said (and alot of others) diffraction may not always be bad. Yet i think its worth i test.
Make baffle, measure, on and off axis. Add dampening, measure using same criteria in previous test. Compare preliminary results. Tweak, tweak and tweak again with even more measurements. Design crossover accordingly.
Cheers Greebster, i'll follow that order am confident i can get some interesting results.
the xover was designed to somehow not make diffraction a problem or so i presume
I don't see how that would work. But I would like to know why harbeth are able to do that.
They still have diffraction, and yes, it's a bad thing, but not the only thing. Just being successful at pleasing audiophiles is not an indicator that they're dealing with every issue effectively.
but why would he choose to allow diffraction instead of minimise it by rounding the edges if it really does improve the music?
Better question would be if you were to round over the edges how much would you use to correct the edge diffraction issue?
the more the better
what's the answer to how much rounding is best? If you look at the research of olson you will see that a sphere was the best. You cant get any rounder than that. So the answer is, the more rounder it is, the closer it is to a sphere and therefore the closer to perfection.
regards,
lilun
regards,
lilun
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