fleasbaby,
Scott does not promote his designs, but for back loaded horn builds you can consider his Vulcan (modestly priced paid plan-set) and Kirishima (free) designs.
Here you with a link for a thread started by a diyAudio member who built the Vulcans:
Planning to build Kirishima or Vulcan
Scott does not promote his designs, but for back loaded horn builds you can consider his Vulcan (modestly priced paid plan-set) and Kirishima (free) designs.
Here you with a link for a thread started by a diyAudio member who built the Vulcans:
Planning to build Kirishima or Vulcan
Fostex gives you an alignment that gives you a hint of lower bass at the expense of not great response up to the lower midrange.
Now that i have power: here is the little dFonken206
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/dFonken206-centre-190118.pdf
dave
Now that i have power: here is the little dFonken206
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/dFonken206-centre-190118.pdf
dave
I built a Victor (FE166 ) woden design a few weeks ago , i would say have a go on Scott's Vulcan for a 206 🙂
Thanks! This is helpful 🙂
Thanks Dave...that is truly a wee little cabinet! I noted the text on it not going under 100 as well.
Those Vulcans and Kirishima are huge. Need to see if I can source wood that tall. Am I correct in assuming it would be a bad idea to use solid hardwoods for either of those as well?
fleasbaby,
I recall an expert woodworker building a Woden Victor (for the Fostex FE166EN) with real wood:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/191159-woden-design-victor-fe166en-3.html#post2611790
The Victor is smaller than the Vulcan.
Would a plywood body and a real-wood baffle be considered as cheating? 🙂
Or build the speaker with ply and then cover with 6mm-12mm wood laminates?
And also think about the weight. These things will be big and heavy!
FWIW, for bass; IME among others, the cab ideally needs to be in the hundreds of pounds before reaching a point of diminishing returns and extremely so for such high aspect ratio ones as these, so building light and adding removable mass using industrial strength velcro or similar is best overall and we can 'kill two birds with one stone' by making the basic cab from inexpensive, light weight, readily available, tall enough panels with removable panels made from thick/dense/heavy real wood in as many panels as required to keep them easy to install.
GM
GM
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I did consider simply covering the plywood with thin sheets of Oak, Poplar, whatever I found that I liked. Haven't written the idea off yet. Have saved the Plywood ones I made with the idea I might go back and do this. Even toying with doing my first effort at Shou Sugi Ban on Cedar and using that. We'll see...
In the meantime, I added internal bracing: four levels of it, each level consisting of two 3/4 inch square bars hammered into place with a mallet front to back and another two 3/4 inch square bars side to side (so four bars per level of bracing). Two layers went into the top chamber, two levels went into the bottom chamber.
Might go back and add an extra front to back rod per level.
Might still also add the bracing to the exterior, on the back, mimicking the bracing on the back loaded horn design for this driver.
I also stuffed the lower chambers with Dacron. Might go in and distribute it evenly between the top and bottom chambers.
The results have improved nicely. Not perfection, but I am assuming that that will only maybe happen when I graduate to back loaded horn cabinets.
I finished up and these are the results...
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Nice, but I know I can get more out of them...before I go crazy sourcing Baltic Birch for a backloaded horn enclosure, has anyone tried using BC or radiata pine plywood from a big-box DIY store before? Its supposedly more durable and rigid than standard plywood. I like that it appears not to have paper-thin veneer outside faces...
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Nice, but I know I can get more out of them...before I go crazy sourcing Baltic Birch for a backloaded horn enclosure, has anyone tried using BC or radiata pine plywood from a big-box DIY store before? Its supposedly more durable and rigid than standard plywood. I like that it appears not to have paper-thin veneer outside faces...
BB is one example of (typically) high quality ply. You are looking for the most plies (19m Murphy Ply has 15 for instance, BB typically 13), and no voids.
dave
Does your big box store have a 'pro' / contractor counter where they order/PU?
If so, ask them if any of their suppliers have no void BB, apple or marine ply in whatever thickness you need and able to sell to you like they can at my two local ones.
If so, the other obstacle I have is I don't meet some minimum quantity to get a remotely reasonable price, but if willing to wait till a big enough order comes along, mine can be tacked on at the bulk discount.
If so, ask them if any of their suppliers have no void BB, apple or marine ply in whatever thickness you need and able to sell to you like they can at my two local ones.
If so, the other obstacle I have is I don't meet some minimum quantity to get a remotely reasonable price, but if willing to wait till a big enough order comes along, mine can be tacked on at the bulk discount.
That's a great idea. They do indeed have a counter. I'll ask next time I am in.
Thanks Dave...duly noted.
Been having fostex 206en for some time.
Use them with 8w single ended 300b tube amp.
Tried them in tall backloaded horns of two famous designs.
Bass was there but not thrilling.
Tried them in a transmission line but gave up after some time as only certain type of music was sounding ok with the TLs.
Built the double bass reflex box and the treble was too shrill with lack of bass.
Tried bafel step correction filters and all other stuff
Througly dissapointed.
Life was dull.
One fine day, came across an old passive subwoofer with 6" driver.
It was a Canton Combi 251 subwoofer.
With some diy knowledge connected the passive sub to the 8w amp.
The fostex 206en in the double bass reflex boxes were connected as satellights.
OMG
Normally when I listen to music, I keep loud.
I want to feel music.
I switch off the lights.
Sight is disturbing.
Then if I get goose pimples on my forearms I know the music is good.
Sometimes this happens when I listen with my yam ns1000m's and sony ss7300
Speakers with different amps.
This happened when I listened to the fostex / subwoofer combo.
In additioned I stopped breathing.
I was also trying to stop my heart beating.
If this has happened to any one of you, then you would know that you have
reached the state of audio nirwana.
In short, it was the best speaker I have listened to so far.
I wish you all audio nirwana.
john.
Use them with 8w single ended 300b tube amp.
Tried them in tall backloaded horns of two famous designs.
Bass was there but not thrilling.
Tried them in a transmission line but gave up after some time as only certain type of music was sounding ok with the TLs.
Built the double bass reflex box and the treble was too shrill with lack of bass.
Tried bafel step correction filters and all other stuff
Througly dissapointed.
Life was dull.
One fine day, came across an old passive subwoofer with 6" driver.
It was a Canton Combi 251 subwoofer.
With some diy knowledge connected the passive sub to the 8w amp.
The fostex 206en in the double bass reflex boxes were connected as satellights.
OMG
Normally when I listen to music, I keep loud.
I want to feel music.
I switch off the lights.
Sight is disturbing.
Then if I get goose pimples on my forearms I know the music is good.
Sometimes this happens when I listen with my yam ns1000m's and sony ss7300
Speakers with different amps.
This happened when I listened to the fostex / subwoofer combo.
In additioned I stopped breathing.
I was also trying to stop my heart beating.
If this has happened to any one of you, then you would know that you have
reached the state of audio nirwana.
In short, it was the best speaker I have listened to so far.
I wish you all audio nirwana.
john.
Attachments
I am a bit late to this one...
About 9 years ago I built a pair of Kirishima's that use a pair of Dave's enabled drivers. They have been in a few different systems but I have always enjoyed listening to them.
Here is the "lowest-fi" setup that they have been in. It was also one of the most fun setups for them though with the addition of the bass cabinets. The banana is included for scale.
About 9 years ago I built a pair of Kirishima's that use a pair of Dave's enabled drivers. They have been in a few different systems but I have always enjoyed listening to them.
Here is the "lowest-fi" setup that they have been in. It was also one of the most fun setups for them though with the addition of the bass cabinets. The banana is included for scale.
Attachments
Wow!
Kirishimas are flanked by four 18" powered subs.
Never too much for the capabilities of the 206e.
Enough for a rock concert!!
For the best sonics in a listening room with a low power set amp, addition
of a small powered sub will do wonders even with huge back loaded horns.
Tried & Tested .
John
Kirishimas are flanked by four 18" powered subs.
Never too much for the capabilities of the 206e.
Enough for a rock concert!!
For the best sonics in a listening room with a low power set amp, addition
of a small powered sub will do wonders even with huge back loaded horns.
Tried & Tested .
John
here is another interesting design, more of classical appearance but tractrix alignment: ‘Audrey’ Horn-loaded Single-driver Loudspeaker System – by Nathan P. Miller | Tech Speakers
