Re: Re: Here's a bunch of resources
Better is an interesting term, because I can't answer that. All amplifiers have sonic differences, so there's possibility for any/all of them to be considered best, based on personal preferences.
It is a device to please ears.
The case with the ST amps is that some chips are made by ST Thompson, and some are counterfeit. Those that are authentic last nicely and sound nicely. However, counterfeit chips can be slightly more noisy, and might have trouble if operated at maximum rated voltage. And a counterfeit chip would need a very, very clean power supply, like a regulated or a snubber variety. Then they can sound nice too. 😉
I would like to suggest that you study the PDF tables for the chips that you are considering and pay special attention to "max voltages for 4 ohm loads" (don't exceed that voltage) and also take a glance at "thermal management" specifications for heatsink sizes (be sure the heatsink is large enough).
The LM series chips are newer, so most are authentic. And, as far as I know, all of the Tripath chips are authentic. There's just not been enough time for counterfeit operations.
That's one possible quality difference.
TDA7293's are often counterfeit. However TDA7294 is a newer model and thus "probably" authentic. I will be interviewing K106 later this week.
Oh, and on the TDA2003 bridged amps, those need 15 or 16 volts snubbed or regulated supply (most use a laptop computer style power supply), a small polyester or polypropylene input filter cap (dc decoupling cap), and a potentiometer. Then they're nicely clean.
On low power (small) amplifiers, the input filter cap also provides an opportunity to "cut off" (roll off) bass that isn't reproduced by your own speakers. That saves it some needless effort and then you get some nice efficient power. 😉
Back on the "best" question, we come up with a question of what exactly is high fidelity. That differs based on source material, if you consider high fidelity to be a "concert real" attempt. Then is when I'd ask if your favorite concert is heard through PA/DJ/prosound equipment, or unreinforced acoustic sound, or both. Since the PA equipment doesn't work too well at very, very small venues (a living room or den), then a Thompson might be an answer.
Best could mean basic signal stability, and that could be LM3875, if it "likes" your speakers.
Best could mean "most award winning" or most generally pleasant, and that's a Tripath, with its extra hour of soldering that paid back because there's no need for endless tweaking, and its slightly higher price that's paid back off your energy bill during the first year or so.
So, I encourage you to try them all. 😉
scottj said:
Better is an interesting term, because I can't answer that. All amplifiers have sonic differences, so there's possibility for any/all of them to be considered best, based on personal preferences.
It is a device to please ears.
The case with the ST amps is that some chips are made by ST Thompson, and some are counterfeit. Those that are authentic last nicely and sound nicely. However, counterfeit chips can be slightly more noisy, and might have trouble if operated at maximum rated voltage. And a counterfeit chip would need a very, very clean power supply, like a regulated or a snubber variety. Then they can sound nice too. 😉
I would like to suggest that you study the PDF tables for the chips that you are considering and pay special attention to "max voltages for 4 ohm loads" (don't exceed that voltage) and also take a glance at "thermal management" specifications for heatsink sizes (be sure the heatsink is large enough).
The LM series chips are newer, so most are authentic. And, as far as I know, all of the Tripath chips are authentic. There's just not been enough time for counterfeit operations.
That's one possible quality difference.
TDA7293's are often counterfeit. However TDA7294 is a newer model and thus "probably" authentic. I will be interviewing K106 later this week.
Oh, and on the TDA2003 bridged amps, those need 15 or 16 volts snubbed or regulated supply (most use a laptop computer style power supply), a small polyester or polypropylene input filter cap (dc decoupling cap), and a potentiometer. Then they're nicely clean.
On low power (small) amplifiers, the input filter cap also provides an opportunity to "cut off" (roll off) bass that isn't reproduced by your own speakers. That saves it some needless effort and then you get some nice efficient power. 😉
Back on the "best" question, we come up with a question of what exactly is high fidelity. That differs based on source material, if you consider high fidelity to be a "concert real" attempt. Then is when I'd ask if your favorite concert is heard through PA/DJ/prosound equipment, or unreinforced acoustic sound, or both. Since the PA equipment doesn't work too well at very, very small venues (a living room or den), then a Thompson might be an answer.
Best could mean basic signal stability, and that could be LM3875, if it "likes" your speakers.
Best could mean "most award winning" or most generally pleasant, and that's a Tripath, with its extra hour of soldering that paid back because there's no need for endless tweaking, and its slightly higher price that's paid back off your energy bill during the first year or so.
So, I encourage you to try them all. 😉
Found this thread and I'm interested in it. I built the Akitika GT-102 gainclone LM3886 that's in my system. I'd like to start in with some more technical creations: ones where you guys post pictures of circuits drawn on a bar napkin.
Working from a kit is pretty simple: printed PCB, parts in little baggies, clear English instructions. But the fun stuff, some of these larger Pass amps, I have to source my own stuff: heat sinks, capacitors, enclosures, everything. I'd like a small project that will start me down this path of being able to build something from these larger projects! Like the Pass Pearl 2 phono-pre.
Working from a kit is pretty simple: printed PCB, parts in little baggies, clear English instructions. But the fun stuff, some of these larger Pass amps, I have to source my own stuff: heat sinks, capacitors, enclosures, everything. I'd like a small project that will start me down this path of being able to build something from these larger projects! Like the Pass Pearl 2 phono-pre.