Hi,
Hope you all are well. I need some help with converting my BenQ DLP projector lamp from halogen to LED. Am I right saying that I need to bypass the ballast to trick the mainboard to say stock lamp is connected?
There is a vertical circuit board connected to main power supply board and 5 wires coming from that to mainboard (connection port J13). Do I have to connect one of these wires to the ground and then I can use LED directly connected the ports?
I know this has 2 step converions:
1. Bypassing or fooling the ballast
2. LED lighting source
Any advice would be highly appreciated.
Cheers
Zaky
from Schematic diagram...
Mainboard...
The Lamp cover switch (thick red and black wires) should be depressed to power up the system.
Hope you all are well. I need some help with converting my BenQ DLP projector lamp from halogen to LED. Am I right saying that I need to bypass the ballast to trick the mainboard to say stock lamp is connected?
There is a vertical circuit board connected to main power supply board and 5 wires coming from that to mainboard (connection port J13). Do I have to connect one of these wires to the ground and then I can use LED directly connected the ports?
I know this has 2 step converions:
1. Bypassing or fooling the ballast
2. LED lighting source
Any advice would be highly appreciated.
Cheers
Zaky
from Schematic diagram...
Mainboard...
The Lamp cover switch (thick red and black wires) should be depressed to power up the system.
Last edited:
Hi Guys
Im here with further information...Ive got some voltage reading as well.
Pin reference for J13 (5 set of wires coming from intergated ballast section):
PIN No5 - board marking TP48 - wire colour yellow - 3.3v (constant from flashing green to solid green, after tuning the projector on)
4 - TP49 - orange - 1.6v constant
3 - TP50 - red - 3.3v (constant like yeelow one above - this is the one turning on the ballast circuit - I could hear squeaking noise at start up)
2 - TP51 - brown - 3.3v (voltage drops to 0 when light turns solid green)
1 - TP51 - black - same like brown above 3.3v (voltage drops to 0 when light turns solid green)
At the moment with lamp removed and ORANGE, RED and BLACK connected (brown and yellow disconnected), the projector turns on the ballast and works for good 1min and then shuts down completely - no any lights on, not even stand by mode. During the 1 min period, its working as it should - I can see the menu on the screen. Would you think the thermal switch playing any role here for shutting it off after that 1 min?
Do above all make sense and point in any direction?
Thanks
Im here with further information...Ive got some voltage reading as well.
Pin reference for J13 (5 set of wires coming from intergated ballast section):
PIN No5 - board marking TP48 - wire colour yellow - 3.3v (constant from flashing green to solid green, after tuning the projector on)
4 - TP49 - orange - 1.6v constant
3 - TP50 - red - 3.3v (constant like yeelow one above - this is the one turning on the ballast circuit - I could hear squeaking noise at start up)
2 - TP51 - brown - 3.3v (voltage drops to 0 when light turns solid green)
1 - TP51 - black - same like brown above 3.3v (voltage drops to 0 when light turns solid green)
At the moment with lamp removed and ORANGE, RED and BLACK connected (brown and yellow disconnected), the projector turns on the ballast and works for good 1min and then shuts down completely - no any lights on, not even stand by mode. During the 1 min period, its working as it should - I can see the menu on the screen. Would you think the thermal switch playing any role here for shutting it off after that 1 min?
Do above all make sense and point in any direction?
Thanks
Last edited:
Anyone?
My idea is to use car HID light for this but thats the next task and I believe thats doable with a new power supply for LED. Getting the projector to run without a bulb and not shuttif off after 1 min, is the challenging part.
Cheers
My idea is to use car HID light for this but thats the next task and I believe thats doable with a new power supply for LED. Getting the projector to run without a bulb and not shuttif off after 1 min, is the challenging part.
Cheers
You can download the full schematic diagram here:
https://elektrotanya.com/benq_ms500...s513p_ver.00b_level3_sch.pdf/download.html#dl
Its one power supply board, which powers up the ballast section when RED wire send signals to J13 on ballast side. I think YELLOW one sends high voltage signal. I'm not looking for a power source for the LED....Im after a method that can trick the main board and stop the ballast getting activated for powering up - this would then enable me to get rid of the halogen lamp, without mainboard shutting down the power after 1 min.
zak
https://elektrotanya.com/benq_ms500...s513p_ver.00b_level3_sch.pdf/download.html#dl
Its one power supply board, which powers up the ballast section when RED wire send signals to J13 on ballast side. I think YELLOW one sends high voltage signal. I'm not looking for a power source for the LED....Im after a method that can trick the main board and stop the ballast getting activated for powering up - this would then enable me to get rid of the halogen lamp, without mainboard shutting down the power after 1 min.
zak
Hi Guys
Heres a vidoe of my projector working....having the halogen lamp removed and LED powerd externally.
What would be the problem that it turns off after 1 min - power indicator goes off as well. I then have to wait for like 30 secs to turn it on.
Heres a vidoe of my projector working....having the halogen lamp removed and LED powerd externally.
What would be the problem that it turns off after 1 min - power indicator goes off as well. I then have to wait for like 30 secs to turn it on.
I've got new voltage readings as follows...
When switched on (flashing green light)
Yellow (PIN 5-TP48) and Red (PIN 3-TP50) sends 3.3v to ballast board
Orange (PIN 4-TP49) reads 2.62v until the LED turns ON, and when LED is ON it goes to 1.36v
Brown (PIN 2-TP51) and black (PIN 1-TP52) 0v to 3.3v coming FROM ballast
LED stays ON for max 5secs and turns OFF. After its OFF
Yellow and Red same reading as above, 3.3v to ballast board
Orange comes back to 2.62v from 1.36v
Brown and black jumped to 0v from 3.3v
Projector would then run for max 1min, then cuts off
When switched on (flashing green light)
Yellow (PIN 5-TP48) and Red (PIN 3-TP50) sends 3.3v to ballast board
Orange (PIN 4-TP49) reads 2.62v until the LED turns ON, and when LED is ON it goes to 1.36v
Brown (PIN 2-TP51) and black (PIN 1-TP52) 0v to 3.3v coming FROM ballast
LED stays ON for max 5secs and turns OFF. After its OFF
Yellow and Red same reading as above, 3.3v to ballast board
Orange comes back to 2.62v from 1.36v
Brown and black jumped to 0v from 3.3v
Projector would then run for max 1min, then cuts off
A quick update...Ive managed to get the projector to work without shutting off for a good 15mins. As soon as the flashing green turned solid, I disconnected Orange (PIN 4-TP49) before it jumping back to 2.62v and this keep the projector ON.
So from this, I'll have to fit a switch to turn off the ballast for solid green light
So from this, I'll have to fit a switch to turn off the ballast for solid green light
Morning
Alright! Ive made some good progress...Soon after power light turned solid green, I disconnected J13 (5 set wires) from mainboard and the projector runs all okay.
I think mainboard checking for ballast signal when loading-if all okay- its not bothered anymore and functions properly. I think I'll have to get a switch fitted to make it like pulling the choke before starting in a motorbike lol.
Im not a technician and have no much ideas how electronic works. So Ive been doing loads of trial-and-error method whole night long and got this to work. I need to investigate further to see if I could get this to work without disconnecting J13. I'll keep you posted
Cheers
Alright! Ive made some good progress...Soon after power light turned solid green, I disconnected J13 (5 set wires) from mainboard and the projector runs all okay.
I think mainboard checking for ballast signal when loading-if all okay- its not bothered anymore and functions properly. I think I'll have to get a switch fitted to make it like pulling the choke before starting in a motorbike lol.
Im not a technician and have no much ideas how electronic works. So Ive been doing loads of trial-and-error method whole night long and got this to work. I need to investigate further to see if I could get this to work without disconnecting J13. I'll keep you posted
Cheers