Goldorak, I wish you a good trip (and Rollknuffs, on your around the world trip -- I am envious & admiring!) I look forward to hearing what you buy where,and how it works when you are back home. I can suggest ways to finance your trip by --er-- importing, but avoid commodities that run you the risk of spending many years in prison if you are caught. But (I suppose) importing electronic goods "For personal use" and stiffing the tax man is ok?
I wish you could import things the USA really needs: common sense, honesty in leadership, long prison terms for the bankers and politicians who run amok instead of for small time drug dealers, people who don't have a weight problem to look like the Goodyear blimp, as well as blondes
One of the great things about the USA is we can ship things through the post (or UPS, FedEx, etc.) including from overseas with great reliability. Good luck doing that in much of the world
I wish you could import things the USA really needs: common sense, honesty in leadership, long prison terms for the bankers and politicians who run amok instead of for small time drug dealers, people who don't have a weight problem to look like the Goodyear blimp, as well as blondes
One of the great things about the USA is we can ship things through the post (or UPS, FedEx, etc.) including from overseas with great reliability. Good luck doing that in much of the world
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Fan change = nearly silent
Orlando, fun! I have been there many times, mostly to Disney World (as a new resident, I could buy a 1-year pass so I got my fill of it, 2003-2004). I live a few hours away, in a saner and of couse, more boring part of Florida.
For the NU6000, replacing the factory fans with a silent after-market fan makes the amp nearly silent. I have not used such fans in a PC, but I am sure the resulting quiet would be nearly the same. Not like I invented it, but adding a quiet or "silent" fan to the NUxxxx or other noisy equipment has to be one of the cheapest and easiest DIY projects I ever heard of! If I ever get to pushing my NU3000 harder, I might just try a quiet fan in there, instead of the "no fan" way. Since I am using one as a subwoofer amp, that day may not be too far off!
The only reason to keep the stock fans would be to re-install them if you planned to sell your amp.
Orlando, fun! I have been there many times, mostly to Disney World (as a new resident, I could buy a 1-year pass so I got my fill of it, 2003-2004). I live a few hours away, in a saner and of couse, more boring part of Florida.
For the NU6000, replacing the factory fans with a silent after-market fan makes the amp nearly silent. I have not used such fans in a PC, but I am sure the resulting quiet would be nearly the same. Not like I invented it, but adding a quiet or "silent" fan to the NUxxxx or other noisy equipment has to be one of the cheapest and easiest DIY projects I ever heard of! If I ever get to pushing my NU3000 harder, I might just try a quiet fan in there, instead of the "no fan" way. Since I am using one as a subwoofer amp, that day may not be too far off!
The only reason to keep the stock fans would be to re-install them if you planned to sell your amp.
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... or if you want a chance at warranty service. Behringer has basically done a recall on the early NU6000 for a diode(s) replacement.
Soldermizer, if you still had your OE fans you could try sending it back for repair/replacement. I guess you can always try the repair yourself.
http://soundforums.net/junior-varsity/1616-behringer-inuke-nu6000-amplifier-6.html#post57081
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I am glad our Care team could help you quickly fix the amplifier. Our service team has certainly replaced all four diodes in your amp, as this is a routine procedure.
The defect relates to a batch of diodes made by International Rectifier. IR is an excellent US semicon manufacturer, which demonstrates that component defects can occur, even when coming from first-tier suppliers.
The problem was spotted early on and corrective action was immediately taken. Unfortunately a small amplifier lot had already shipped with these potentially-defective diodes. Luckily this only relates to a very small lot of amplifiers, and all current products are perfectly OK.
If you are concerned, please contact or visit our Care center in Las Vegas or Kidderminster who are more than happy to check if your amps belong to the initial lot. If anyone else has a concern, please contact our Care centers at care@music-group.com.
Apologies for the trouble and thank you for being a BEHRINGER customer.
Warm regards
Uli
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My first iNuke failure...
I was unaware of the diode recall until now. In any case, I long ago voided my warranty by the fan swap. A few days ago my NU6000 has apparently failed. It had recently been in use as a subwoofer amp (two channels) and no apaprent issues, until this: unit would not power up but would if of/on, or try later. But now, nothing. I have checked all the easy stuff: it is not a circuit breaker issue. There is AC inside the chassis. This is not a complaint against Behringer: this unit is a couple years old and, while not worked hard, or even consistently, it had been the subject of no-fan and quiet-fan experimentation. Sometimes they fail. But the 3 year warranty is not applicable to me
I'd considered a repair: there is a local center but: ($50 1st hour + unknown additional); I did some quick "shopping" and the NU6000 is $350 brand new. I might get $100 selling my defective unit. So: $250 gets me a brand new NU6000 -- or -- I am eyeing the NU4-6000 which is same price and seems more flexible.
And now, the asking for advice: I will consider other amp options but specs would have to be similar to the NU6000 (power output, etc.) and similar or cheaper price. I found nothing cheaper a few years ago, and haven't since. Also, "build your own from the chip up" is not an acceptable option for me
I was unaware of the diode recall until now. In any case, I long ago voided my warranty by the fan swap. A few days ago my NU6000 has apparently failed. It had recently been in use as a subwoofer amp (two channels) and no apaprent issues, until this: unit would not power up but would if of/on, or try later. But now, nothing. I have checked all the easy stuff: it is not a circuit breaker issue. There is AC inside the chassis. This is not a complaint against Behringer: this unit is a couple years old and, while not worked hard, or even consistently, it had been the subject of no-fan and quiet-fan experimentation. Sometimes they fail. But the 3 year warranty is not applicable to me
I'd considered a repair: there is a local center but: ($50 1st hour + unknown additional); I did some quick "shopping" and the NU6000 is $350 brand new. I might get $100 selling my defective unit. So: $250 gets me a brand new NU6000 -- or -- I am eyeing the NU4-6000 which is same price and seems more flexible.
And now, the asking for advice: I will consider other amp options but specs would have to be similar to the NU6000 (power output, etc.) and similar or cheaper price. I found nothing cheaper a few years ago, and haven't since. Also, "build your own from the chip up" is not an acceptable option for me
Having read all the threads here and in the AV forums, I am struck at the sledge hammer approach.
OK, we pay almost nothing for these things, so I am not blaming Behringer for almost no heat sink, poor shroud, and cheap fan. So, what to do?
Step one will be to make some measurements. We need to get a scope on the overall thermal picture of not just the outputs, but all power devices. Guess I need to make up a thermocouple first as I only have an IR meter, not much good to sense under the hood.
If anyone has a schematic for the fan speed control, please give a shout.
OK, we pay almost nothing for these things, so I am not blaming Behringer for almost no heat sink, poor shroud, and cheap fan. So, what to do?
Step one will be to make some measurements. We need to get a scope on the overall thermal picture of not just the outputs, but all power devices. Guess I need to make up a thermocouple first as I only have an IR meter, not much good to sense under the hood.
If anyone has a schematic for the fan speed control, please give a shout.
on the USA NU6000, in the AC section, if you look just to the left of the Omron 12V relay, there are two jumpers marked 115V (J3) and 230V (J2). Under this it says "Caution 100-120 VAC insert J1 and J3. 220-240 VAC insert J2 only." J1 ("115V") is about 3 cm "south" of the Omron, just outside the box or shielding thing.
I am too lazy to check my NU3000, and besides the question deals with the NU1000. So, does this data make the smuggling of NU6000s from America to Western Europe a feasible enterprise
did you try changing the jumpers? i've just got a nu6000, but its the wrong voltage. i'm thinking of adjusting the jumpers, not sure if it will work or if there is anything else that has to be adjusted
I was unaware of the diode recall until now. In any case, I long ago voided my warranty by the fan swap. A few days ago my NU6000 has apparently failed. It had recently been in use as a subwoofer amp (two channels) and no apaprent issues, until this: unit would not power up but would if of/on, or try later. But now, nothing. I have checked all the easy stuff: it is not a circuit breaker issue. There is AC inside the chassis. This is not a complaint against Behringer: this unit is a couple years old and, while not worked hard, or even consistently, it had been the subject of no-fan and quiet-fan experimentation. Sometimes they fail. But the 3 year warranty is not applicable to me
I'd considered a repair: there is a local center but: ($50 1st hour + unknown additional); I did some quick "shopping" and the NU6000 is $350 brand new. I might get $100 selling my defective unit. So: $250 gets me a brand new NU6000 -- or -- I am eyeing the NU4-6000 which is same price and seems more flexible.
And now, the asking for advice: I will consider other amp options but specs would have to be similar to the NU6000 (power output, etc.) and similar or cheaper price. I found nothing cheaper a few years ago, and haven't since. Also, "build your own from the chip up" is not an acceptable option for me
PEAVEY IPR series are cheap. But no-one needs these rediculous watts at home, so why not buy something similar priced but lower power.
correction. nu4-6000. and i did the jumper change (110v -> 230v). Seems to be working fine. not unnecessarily hot anywhere, clean output and as loud as expected. Need to replace the circuit breaker with a lower Amp version, but otherwise. yay. Might replace the fans with quieter ones with same CFM
NU4-6000 works ok w/o fans...at least for a hour...
I had bought an NU4-6000 shortly after selling the NU6000, and it has been hardly used for two years. Today I decided to finally void its warranty, 2/3 expired anyway I unscrewed the cover, disconnected both fans at the board, and swapped it in for my (one of two) workhorse NU3000. Played stereo (2 ch. - duh!) at moderate volumes for > 60 minutes with no shut downs or magic smoke escapes Too soon to tell for sure, bt I think we have another candidate for true fanless operation -- like the NU3000 and unlike the NU6000. Even the quiet fans (in the NU3000) were too noisy for me. Once I hook up the Frankenclosure (2' cube sub from 2014) that might change...
I had bought an NU4-6000 shortly after selling the NU6000, and it has been hardly used for two years. Today I decided to finally void its warranty, 2/3 expired anyway
I unscrewed the cover, disconnected both fans at the board, and swapped it in for my (one of two) workhorse NU3000. Played stereo (2 ch. - duh!) at moderate volumes for > 60 minutes with no shut downs or magic smoke escapes Too soon to tell for sure, bt I think we have another candidate for true fanless operation -- like the NU3000 and unlike the NU6000. Even the quiet fans (in the NU3000) were too noisy for me. Once I hook up the Frankenclosure (2' cube sub from 2014) that might change...nu6000 voltage change
So, i changed the jumpers and replaced the fuse on my 110v nu6000
i swapped out the fans for silent ones, noticed a bit too much heat on the power supply, so swapped the original one back in on that section.
It then ran for a week at 230v, heavy usage at a festival, so hot hot days and cold nights.
It was fine.
So, i changed the jumpers and replaced the fuse on my 110v nu6000
i swapped out the fans for silent ones, noticed a bit too much heat on the power supply, so swapped the original one back in on that section.
It then ran for a week at 230v, heavy usage at a festival, so hot hot days and cold nights.
It was fine.
I have now gotten one NUKE 6k DSP (let 's see if the FBI or CIA or NSA other 3 letter organization comes to see my place for mentioning that "i have one nuke"?? ...). It is now running into two 15-inch-3 ways (one per channel) where I have modded the crossover plus drivers, the total impedance is now a bit lower at some frequencies, so I would consider them to be "6 Ohms". I need about 500W max. per channel, but the speakers can cope with quite some higher power bursts too and love the headroom. So the inuke class D full bridge running at almost 170VDC comes in handy. Bang for buck goes almost to infinite considered what I 've paid for that inuke.
Trouble 1: the switch off pop, I have solved it by introducing the procedure of disconnecting the speakers by a mechanical switch before turning the amp off. However, if I forget that once, that may not be so good for the speakers.
Trouble 2: The fans. Is there any general consensus what I can do If I need only ~1000W continuous at room ambient. Would the series connection mod cover that power range or not? I can live with fans, but not with that noisy ones.
Trouble 1: the switch off pop, I have solved it by introducing the procedure of disconnecting the speakers by a mechanical switch before turning the amp off. However, if I forget that once, that may not be so good for the speakers.
Trouble 2: The fans. Is there any general consensus what I can do If I need only ~1000W continuous at room ambient. Would the series connection mod cover that power range or not? I can live with fans, but not with that noisy ones.
If you are interested in changing fans (would recommend), check out my blog post ?music: Behringer iNuke NU6000 fan-mod
Cresnet, if you are working for or selling other brand of amps, it does not help to curse on behringer, you and mankind would be better served if you try to hit that price / performance level yourself.
Rullknufs, thanks, I checked your link, but from the pictures I cannot see what pin to solder and what not. Also, I have no fan controller and I think this controller would have to be mounted close to the hot spot plus set up and tested air-flow vs. temperature. $12 sounds affordable, but I have absolutely no experience with modding fans, no idea why you use rubber screws and why - do the screws have a sound? where to get them. etc.... would rather have behringer to spend some $ more on a low noise fan and increase the price that amount.
Rullknufs, thanks, I checked your link, but from the pictures I cannot see what pin to solder and what not. Also, I have no fan controller and I think this controller would have to be mounted close to the hot spot plus set up and tested air-flow vs. temperature. $12 sounds affordable, but I have absolutely no experience with modding fans, no idea why you use rubber screws and why - do the screws have a sound? where to get them. etc.... would rather have behringer to spend some $ more on a low noise fan and increase the price that amount.
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