Hi ! well this is very interesting
but hardly a great reference for hifi purpose isn't it ?
Instead i would love to see a chip solution for all stages up to the output stage
with the output stage left out of the chip
When you need big out current the chip amps are limited at 4-5 amperes max
This is not enough
Ok ... you can parallel them but i prefer parallel of discrete bjts like all manufacturers do.
But for limited power they can be ok, i think
Kind regards,
gino
LME49830
Now you are building own speaker and recycling cabinet. What a bargain.
If people want to buy a pair of these things and put money into improving them, they should just build the ER18DXT to begin with. Same amount of money, less headache, equal or better quality.Hi,
100+ posts in and not one sensible modification suggested ....
rgds, sreten.
Of course, the ER18DXT is passive...
Hi,
That is arguable. They claim to have correction for speaker
position via the control you mention, however they also
claim said correction is correct for nearfield listening.
Make of it what you will, but a freefield speaker with said
switch set to 6dB is claimed to be good for nearfield.
If so it still won't have enough BSC for farfield.
rgds, sreten.
Hi again,
Section 3.4 in the manual shows the BSC range is variable from full compensation for free space (which they call 0dB), to -6dB for when you've shoved them in a corner.
So it sounds like they've applied the full 6dB of BSC which can be reduced at the user's discretion.
I think they call them "nearfield" monitors because they're limited in ultimate SPL compared to some of the huge 15" 3-way monitors.
Chris
Hi,
100+ posts in and not one sensible modification suggested ....
rgds, sreten.
Well, Sreten, in the amplifier enclosure is not much space left. I tried to add some capacitors to the powersupply. (electrolyt and polypropylene) It gave me a slightly tighter bass with a bit more punch and a fraction more detail. But in general marginal improvements...
Since I did not manage to get specs on the speakers, I did not want to touch changing the tweeter.
Besides, I think the 2030A's main problem is the woofer, responsible for a dull and sometimes woolly sound image.
Have you tried connecting a mic to a scope and sending clicks into the speaker?
You can see all the reflections, from the cabinet and the woofer frame itself.
If you spend time eliminating those reflections (you can tell which is which by the time delay, and bigger scope amplitude = more energy reflected), you'll get a much better sound.
Chris
You can see all the reflections, from the cabinet and the woofer frame itself.
If you spend time eliminating those reflections (you can tell which is which by the time delay, and bigger scope amplitude = more energy reflected), you'll get a much better sound.
Chris
Hello !
just to say that i have received the speakers but i understand that a serious modification is beyond my ability![Eek! :eek: :eek:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
First necessary step would be at least to be able to measure the TS parameters of the woofer to identify a possible replacement
And i am not able to do so![Frown :( :(](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
I have thought about the drivers as possible upgrade because electronic parts can be quite cheap nowadays, but good drivers not and are important for the overall result![Roll eyes :rolleyes: :rolleyes:](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
But first the TS parameter of the woofer are needed (no part number on the component, unfortunately)
Thanks a lot to all for the valuable advice that prevents me to do a disaster
Kind regards,
gino![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
just to say that i have received the speakers but i understand that a serious modification is beyond my ability
First necessary step would be at least to be able to measure the TS parameters of the woofer to identify a possible replacement
And i am not able to do so
I have thought about the drivers as possible upgrade because electronic parts can be quite cheap nowadays, but good drivers not and are important for the overall result
But first the TS parameter of the woofer are needed (no part number on the component, unfortunately)
Thanks a lot to all for the valuable advice that prevents me to do a disaster
Kind regards,
gino
Chris, thanks for your advice. This will help me improving the 2030AHave you tried connecting a mic to a scope and sending clicks into the speaker?
You can see all the reflections, from the cabinet and the woofer frame itself.
If you spend time eliminating those reflections (you can tell which is which by the time delay, and bigger scope amplitude = more energy reflected), you'll get a much better sound.
Chris
Well, Sreten, in the amplifier enclosure is not much space left. I tried to add some capacitors to the powersupply. (electrolyt and polypropylene) It gave me a slightly tighter bass with a bit more punch and a fraction more detail.
But in general marginal improvements...
Since I did not manage to get specs on the speakers, I did not want to touch changing the tweeter.
Besides, I think the 2030A's main problem is the woofer, responsible for a dull and sometimes woolly sound image
Hello and i think absolutely the same
The original one is a cheap plastic thing that does not inspire me.
I have been advised rightly to measure its TS parameters (I cannot for now) to select a possible replacement
Anyway if you spot a good substitute please let me know
I will do the same.
The tweeter is a non issue. Any good quality tweeters will do just fine.
Just a resistor could be needed.
Even the stock one could be not bad at all.
Thanks a lot and good luck with your project !
Kind regards,
gino
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