if not needing or desiring the rear half, then something like this if the driver has sufficient power response in the treble and/or Eq-able might be an interesting experiment - don't know how it would adapt with a fullrange of any size.
Sausalito Audio Works lens (DIY) - YouTube
Sausalito Audio Works lens (DIY) - YouTube
Ahh, I see. My purpose with these speakers is first to learn but second to create a pair of speakers that I can place in the center of a small room, preferably on a desktop. I suppose they will not need a reflector since they should not be above ear level. However, I like the look of the reflector (silly, I know) and think it would be interesting to do some experimenting with it.
Just put it on floor and upfiring.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/121385-advantages-floor-coupled-up-firing-speakers.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/121385-advantages-floor-coupled-up-firing-speakers.html
Hi agrzesik,
Maybe this will provide some answers or inspiration - PLUTO-2.1 omni-directional loudspeaker
Mike
Maybe this will provide some answers or inspiration - PLUTO-2.1 omni-directional loudspeaker
Mike
Sounds like the machine shop gives you quite the superior set of tools. I have plenty of experience building speakers out of wood, but little metalworking experience.
Precisely correct. It's an easy driver to start with and learn from.
The reflector/waveguide design is appealing to me as well!
Haha. 🙂 When I compare what I know to what I know I don't know, I know little. When I consider what I have yet to learn about learning about, I know nothing.
CLS just expanded my knowledge:
I wasn't aware floor coupling could mitigate room reflections. Time to not know a little less! I'm intrigued.
The concept of flooder is counterintuitive, very interesting nevertheless.
The speaker is on floor, so there's no floor bounce, which is good for midbass to midrange. It's also beneficial to bass, which is well-supported by the boundary (floor).
Upper mid to treble is the most confusing with 'common sense'. Traditional 'knowledge' told us it's bad to have multiple paths of reflections which smear the timing clues, etc.
Well, I'm no expert to explain it clearly. I just did some simple trials (upfiring tweeters) myself and like the sound very much. And my living room has no acoustic treatment, so it's very reflective. To my ears, I don't feel the treble smeared at all. It's still very crisp and clear, and the images are well focused and appearing naturally at where they should be.
Best of all, no more 'sweet spot' listening. It's sweet everywhere in the room, or even out of the room.
After tried this, I'll never go back to the camp of 'tweeter at ear height and aiming at the listener'.
🙂
The speaker is on floor, so there's no floor bounce, which is good for midbass to midrange. It's also beneficial to bass, which is well-supported by the boundary (floor).
Upper mid to treble is the most confusing with 'common sense'. Traditional 'knowledge' told us it's bad to have multiple paths of reflections which smear the timing clues, etc.
Well, I'm no expert to explain it clearly. I just did some simple trials (upfiring tweeters) myself and like the sound very much. And my living room has no acoustic treatment, so it's very reflective. To my ears, I don't feel the treble smeared at all. It's still very crisp and clear, and the images are well focused and appearing naturally at where they should be.
Best of all, no more 'sweet spot' listening. It's sweet everywhere in the room, or even out of the room.
After tried this, I'll never go back to the camp of 'tweeter at ear height and aiming at the listener'.
🙂
Ok, sounds like a floor coupled speaker is the way to go. I think it will produce the right sound for the room I'm in as well.
I would still like to experiment with a top hat design though. Any chance this will negatively affect performance?
The next things I need help with are
1. Understanding what a filter does in a full range speaker.
2. Learning how to use the microphone to record data on the speaker. I want to directly compare top hat designs by measuring the output using the Mic (i.e. conical or linear top hat). Not sure WhAt software to use or what recording to play
I would still like to experiment with a top hat design though. Any chance this will negatively affect performance?
The next things I need help with are
1. Understanding what a filter does in a full range speaker.
2. Learning how to use the microphone to record data on the speaker. I want to directly compare top hat designs by measuring the output using the Mic (i.e. conical or linear top hat). Not sure WhAt software to use or what recording to play
Thanks Freddi!
That project turned out nicely.
If you want a full range speaker with very wide beamwidth, the SAW lenses are tough to beat.
Here's some threads to check out:
1) the thread I'll post this weekend, about the SAW lenses I'm building right now (stay tuned)
2) A thread titled "everything counts in large amounts" on diymobileaudio.com
3) there's a couple of beolab threads on diyaudio that I've posted in
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