Ladies and gents,
I own a Beard P100 but it blew a capacitor the other day,
1. Should a replace the component or as it is a old bird replace the whole thing? Ideally me the component as a new machine is £££?
2. Where would a get a new capacitor from (400 micro Farads)? Does anyone have one knocking around?
3. Do Beard still exist? I emailed them but it mentioned that the owner has gone into retirement?
I have never been here before and admitally don't know much about value amps apart from that the sound quality is amazing!!!
Yours hopefully
Tommy
I own a Beard P100 but it blew a capacitor the other day,
1. Should a replace the component or as it is a old bird replace the whole thing? Ideally me the component as a new machine is £££?
2. Where would a get a new capacitor from (400 micro Farads)? Does anyone have one knocking around?
3. Do Beard still exist? I emailed them but it mentioned that the owner has gone into retirement?
I have never been here before and admitally don't know much about value amps apart from that the sound quality is amazing!!!
Yours hopefully
Tommy
Here go guys, this is what is written on the damaged capaictor.
LCR
R 400 micro Farads 350VDC
Plain NEG
Y 400 micro Farads 350VDC
FAC/RD5
uk 86-17
Any tips?
PS Have tried the company LCR, but have stopped making it.
PLEASE PLEASE HELP
LCR
R 400 micro Farads 350VDC
Plain NEG
Y 400 micro Farads 350VDC
FAC/RD5
uk 86-17
Any tips?
PS Have tried the company LCR, but have stopped making it.
PLEASE PLEASE HELP
Hi,
You'll need a 400µF/350VDC radial cap preferably of the same diameter as the old one.
While you're at it, it looks as if pretty soon all the other electrolytic caps will be due for replacement too.
So you better check the other caps and jot down their specs.
A suitable source for replaments might be RS Components, Cricklewood Electronics, Maplin, etc.
Cheers, 😉
You'll need a 400µF/350VDC radial cap preferably of the same diameter as the old one.
While you're at it, it looks as if pretty soon all the other electrolytic caps will be due for replacement too.
So you better check the other caps and jot down their specs.
A suitable source for replaments might be RS Components, Cricklewood Electronics, Maplin, etc.
Cheers, 😉
If you like it, fix it. I have lots of old things that sound great. It will sound even better once it has been gone over.
-Chris
-Chris
Cheers guys, I have searced but cannot find a suitable replacement. Any more tips?
Do Beard still exist, as I have emailed the sales department but not heard a sausage?
Tom.
Do Beard still exist, as I have emailed the sales department but not heard a sausage?
Tom.
What you have is a two section cap. Each section 400µF 350V. The sections are marked with a red and yellow dot, right?Tom Smithson said:
I don't think you can get a replacement for that one. But buy two 470µF 400V caps, which are easy to get. You may be able to fit the two new caps in the same space.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
A good place to buy high voltage caps is www.ebay.co.uk
Many sellers list ex MOD stock, mostly NOS.
Bear in mind a NOS cap will need reforming>>>
http://www.vintage-radio.com/repair-restore-information/valve_initial-checks-and-tests.shtml (scroll down)
Many sellers list ex MOD stock, mostly NOS.
Bear in mind a NOS cap will need reforming>>>
http://www.vintage-radio.com/repair-restore-information/valve_initial-checks-and-tests.shtml (scroll down)
Steps to a happy B.B.
1. Buy 2 400uF 350v caps, one to be radial if possible, the other axial.
2. Hollow out the original cap, to leave an empty case.
3. Fit the new radial cap inside and re-fit. It should fit if tou buy a new cap as they get smaller every year 😉
4. Fit the new axial cap inder the chassis possibly using the negative tag if the radial cap as one anchor point. Use an insulated wire to connect the positive.
1. Buy 2 400uF 350v caps, one to be radial if possible, the other axial.
2. Hollow out the original cap, to leave an empty case.
3. Fit the new radial cap inside and re-fit. It should fit if tou buy a new cap as they get smaller every year 😉
4. Fit the new axial cap inder the chassis possibly using the negative tag if the radial cap as one anchor point. Use an insulated wire to connect the positive.
Re: Steps to a happy B.B.
Konnichiwa,
With a little luck you can use multiple smaller cap's to fill the entire space, eg. 4pcs 220uF/350V may be able to fit into the old case and be then paralleled up to give 2 X 440uF....
Sayonara
Konnichiwa,
dhaen said:
With a little luck you can use multiple smaller cap's to fill the entire space, eg. 4pcs 220uF/350V may be able to fit into the old case and be then paralleled up to give 2 X 440uF....
Sayonara
URL for Beard
Tom --
As mentioned by Frank de Grove, Bill Beard passed on the rights etc for all his equipment to CF Media when he retired in 2002.
They have a Beard-specific website at www.beardaudio.com, and through that one can send an email to them re servicing and parts. They are about to 'monoblock' my P100s & seem decent folk (with fair prices), but I cannot yet attest to their work. But I'm confident enough to let them at my cherished amplifiers....
Incidentally, they are based in Chelsea if you need to lug your wee beastie to their door.
Regards & good luck,
Richard
Tom --
As mentioned by Frank de Grove, Bill Beard passed on the rights etc for all his equipment to CF Media when he retired in 2002.
They have a Beard-specific website at www.beardaudio.com, and through that one can send an email to them re servicing and parts. They are about to 'monoblock' my P100s & seem decent folk (with fair prices), but I cannot yet attest to their work. But I'm confident enough to let them at my cherished amplifiers....
Incidentally, they are based in Chelsea if you need to lug your wee beastie to their door.
Regards & good luck,
Richard
Or much better why not get one made with same dimention 
Jensen capacitors can make such a capacitors 😉
http://www.jensencapacitors.com/audio/main/
Jensen capacitors can make such a capacitors 😉
http://www.jensencapacitors.com/audio/main/
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