Can't really add decoupling caps to the brown dog converter, and still manage to fit it into the shanling - just isn't enough space as there's two caps right next to the op-amp sockets in the shanling.
Got the LM4562s to try out Monday though - looking forward to that 😉
- John
Got the LM4562s to try out Monday though - looking forward to that 😉
- John
Better tubes to CD-T80UK
Hi Guys,
I'd like to ask your advice about re-tubing this player...
What is the best replacement tube instead of original tube?
Please share your experiences...
Thanks!!!
Hi Guys,
I'd like to ask your advice about re-tubing this player...
What is the best replacement tube instead of original tube?
Please share your experiences...
Thanks!!!
OpAmp
Hello
New to forum. Trying to change out and mod my new to me Shanling SCD T200A CD Player. Do not want to hi jack thread. Is the S80 similar in circuitry to the 200A?
I have read about the mods from several companies and most say to switch to the 627 w/Brown dog adapter.
I like the sound o f the new LM4562. Can someone comment that has made the swap and its sonic benefits?
Also ordering,which model would I order and how many?
Thanks for helping Newbie🙂
Another Mods to the player appreciated.
Hello
New to forum. Trying to change out and mod my new to me Shanling SCD T200A CD Player. Do not want to hi jack thread. Is the S80 similar in circuitry to the 200A?
I have read about the mods from several companies and most say to switch to the 627 w/Brown dog adapter.
I like the sound o f the new LM4562. Can someone comment that has made the swap and its sonic benefits?
Also ordering,which model would I order and how many?
Thanks for helping Newbie🙂
Another Mods to the player appreciated.
Hi!
I wrote an article for Hi-Fi World a while back now on using different tubes for the Shanling CD-T80. In my opinion the RCA5670 sounds fantastic in teh Shanling - it really brings the music alive with fantastic bass grip and awsome rhythm. It can also handle classical music really well to so it's good at everything.
The LM4562 has proved to work really well in the Shanling. Initially I was disappointed, until I realised it was just being neutral, and I had been used to the rather coloured presentation of the OPA2227's (coloured in comparison - I still like these chips though). If you want a totally neutral sounding Op-amp then you'll love these, but if you want a more 'exciting' presentation perhaps the BB chips are a better bet. I'm sticking with the LM4562 however. Fantastic resolution and DEAD quiet. You'll be rediscivering your CD collection with these fitted.
While I like the OPA627's I found they got too hot to touch in the Shanling using the Brown Dog converters.
Cheers,
- John
I wrote an article for Hi-Fi World a while back now on using different tubes for the Shanling CD-T80. In my opinion the RCA5670 sounds fantastic in teh Shanling - it really brings the music alive with fantastic bass grip and awsome rhythm. It can also handle classical music really well to so it's good at everything.
The LM4562 has proved to work really well in the Shanling. Initially I was disappointed, until I realised it was just being neutral, and I had been used to the rather coloured presentation of the OPA2227's (coloured in comparison - I still like these chips though). If you want a totally neutral sounding Op-amp then you'll love these, but if you want a more 'exciting' presentation perhaps the BB chips are a better bet. I'm sticking with the LM4562 however. Fantastic resolution and DEAD quiet. You'll be rediscivering your CD collection with these fitted.
While I like the OPA627's I found they got too hot to touch in the Shanling using the Brown Dog converters.
Cheers,
- John
Nice post. Any particular date code or vintage to look for in the RCA tube?
When you say coloured or exciting is it artificial or enhancing any particular sonic region. Regarding the 4562 vs the 627 OpAmp
I'm trying to get a little more impact or slam in the overall presentation with increased resolution...would you say the two players are similar?
Thanks
When you say coloured or exciting is it artificial or enhancing any particular sonic region. Regarding the 4562 vs the 627 OpAmp
I'm trying to get a little more impact or slam in the overall presentation with increased resolution...would you say the two players are similar?
Thanks
It's say the LM4562 will appeal more to those who like classical music as well as other genres. It's great at tiny nuances and inflections in instruments. It seems to 'tell it like it is' which is great for well recorded CDs but not so hot with badly recorded or compressed ones.
The OPA627 sounds a bit fuller in the bass, though some might say bloated - it's a matter of personal taste. My best results have come from using OPA627's in my pre-amp, and LM4562 in the Shanling - best of both worlds then! However if you favour a bit more slam/excitment I'd say the OPA627 may be better suited to your tastes. At the end of the day it's best to give both a try and see what you think. I chose the LM4562 because it just let through more of the music at the end of the day.
However the new old stock RCAs thrive on slam and rhythm and very firm bass, so these in combination with the natural sounding LM4562 may offer you what you seek, as they did with my Shanling. Again the only way to best decide is to try for yourself.
As for the RCA, I am afraid I haven't a clue here. I did get mind from http://www.tube-shop.com/ if that's of any help. I'll try and dig out the boxes if I can find them...
- John
The OPA627 sounds a bit fuller in the bass, though some might say bloated - it's a matter of personal taste. My best results have come from using OPA627's in my pre-amp, and LM4562 in the Shanling - best of both worlds then! However if you favour a bit more slam/excitment I'd say the OPA627 may be better suited to your tastes. At the end of the day it's best to give both a try and see what you think. I chose the LM4562 because it just let through more of the music at the end of the day.
However the new old stock RCAs thrive on slam and rhythm and very firm bass, so these in combination with the natural sounding LM4562 may offer you what you seek, as they did with my Shanling. Again the only way to best decide is to try for yourself.
As for the RCA, I am afraid I haven't a clue here. I did get mind from http://www.tube-shop.com/ if that's of any help. I'll try and dig out the boxes if I can find them...
- John
cartman said:
I removed the WE 396A to listen to the RCA 5670 which I bought 2 days ago.
MY verdict:
Both can offer different sound (depends on your tastes). You cannot easily say that this one is better than the other one. It will depend on what music you like to hear. I am using opa 2227 which is far better than the stock opa2604. Right now, I put back the WE396a because I like what I am hearing. More detail but lesser bass. I like to listen to audiophile voices, single instrument like guitar, piano, and sax. RCA5670 will make your T-80 a little bit darker. Bass is better with the RCA. I will keep my RCA, when the life of the WE is gone, I have a spare of tubes to give my machine a different personality.
music4life!
Thanks for your review 😉
I already surveyed the main upgradeable areas in CD-T80:
1: OPAs (expostulated)
2: Tubes (expostulated)
3: Output caps (open issue)
4: Clock (open issue)
As I saw, the oiginal output caps is an 1.0uF MKP type.
I guess if we can change it for a better one this would be a great opportunity for improving of sound.
I found a great caps for this place from Mundorf. (Silver/Oil or Silver/Gold)
I have to check the space in the CD-T80 for these bigger size caps.
Clock issue: 😕
Thanks for your review 😉
I already surveyed the main upgradeable areas in CD-T80:
1: OPAs (expostulated)
2: Tubes (expostulated)
3: Output caps (open issue)
4: Clock (open issue)
As I saw, the oiginal output caps is an 1.0uF MKP type.
I guess if we can change it for a better one this would be a great opportunity for improving of sound.
I found a great caps for this place from Mundorf. (Silver/Oil or Silver/Gold)
I have to check the space in the CD-T80 for these bigger size caps.
Clock issue: 😕
If the CDP has a simple cristal / schematic providing the clock, a better clock (Tent XO or Kwak 7) will improve sound, and sometimes a lot
This isn't a "simple cristal", it has an oscillator in metal case.
Probably an XO or something like that...
Probably an XO or something like that...
Why spend money on clocks that are based on same crystal oscillator like that in your player.tubee said:
You can simply remove crystal from player borad and bult RF amp for him and put him in series oscillatin ciruit. For that amp you can build a simple but efective power supply with choke filtration and shunt reg.
Attachments
Gasho, a OPA2132 will outperform the good old NE5534. But indeed the NE5534 is not that bad considered its age!
Your proposed clock circuit is a combination of C. Snoerens PS for a Tent-XO (have a copy here) and a simplified KWAK-like clock generator circuit. In Kwak 7 the cristal is buffered with a fet, and a comparator delivers the clock signal. Advantage of Elso's way is that the output can be adjusted to get the best waveform.
A big & canned cristal can be a good one, or it is not. Its depending what is in it, usually a cristal and a 74HCT04 buffer. Better would be a cristal and a VCO.
Guido Tent claims his XO suppliers have lowest jitter of other manufacturers.
Your proposed clock circuit is a combination of C. Snoerens PS for a Tent-XO (have a copy here) and a simplified KWAK-like clock generator circuit. In Kwak 7 the cristal is buffered with a fet, and a comparator delivers the clock signal. Advantage of Elso's way is that the output can be adjusted to get the best waveform.
A big & canned cristal can be a good one, or it is not. Its depending what is in it, usually a cristal and a 74HCT04 buffer. Better would be a cristal and a VCO.
Guido Tent claims his XO suppliers have lowest jitter of other manufacturers.
Output caps
It looks like output caps are 2 electrolytic caps in non polarised configuration with an MKP cap in parallel.
I guess changing the MKP one alone would not be a major improvement.
These electrolytic caps bother me much more.
What are exact types and values of these caps ?
Is someone having a schematic or a service manual for the Shanling CD T80 ?
It looks like output caps are 2 electrolytic caps in non polarised configuration with an MKP cap in parallel.
I guess changing the MKP one alone would not be a major improvement.
These electrolytic caps bother me much more.
What are exact types and values of these caps ?
Is someone having a schematic or a service manual for the Shanling CD T80 ?
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