: 'TL' s/b 'parabolic flair'
Yeah, with the sofa/ears back at the room's fundamental odd harmonic, the closer the speakers to the opposite wall the better.
The bay window is acting as a bass trap at some BW, so best to use very dense drapes/whatever to block it off during audio playback.
The pioneers started with wool for woofers, speakers in general and wads of 4/0 stainless steel? mesh for compression drivers, so you're in good 'company'. 👍😎
The bay window is acting as a bass trap at some BW, so best to use very dense drapes/whatever to block it off during audio playback.
The pioneers started with wool for woofers, speakers in general and wads of 4/0 stainless steel? mesh for compression drivers, so you're in good 'company'. 👍😎
TL/horn theory has a flare factor (conical, expo, hyperbolic, parabolic, radial) and frequency (cut-off) spec.
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Ok, blocking off the Window area can o use 2in very dense polystyrene? I some, it's what we are yousing for external insulation? Regarding dampening the speaker, in the picture I have shown the 1in piece of wood splitting the rear sound wave into 2. So half goes straight up and the other travels to the back and then up. Question is how much of the wool I have should o use? And at what density? Also how high?
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Got it thanks, how much to add in the chamber? I could maybe get half way up max and only at the exit...thats all. I will make a start at coming out the wool
Sure! As long as it's clamped/weighted/whatever so it's inert in the > ~500 Hz BW.
The divider is way too short to do this in the cab's passband, so basically just an internal stiffener, eigenmode/standing wave deflector to keep it from possibly 'drumming' between the top, bottom plates.
Short of doing impedance sweeps, it's basically a fill to personal 'taste' sound wise and no experience with wool.
Ok just to get it right, filling the area behind the B139 with equal density wool will help by slowing down the low frequency wave and to increase cabinet area. At the moment mid bass is closed off behind the lower rumble and loose bass.
So an update. .I filled in chamber B139 and the wood at angle hight. Fairly medium density like a soft sponge. I left the amplifier on for an hour or so and then had I listen, I'm probably being biased towards the conclusion but it felt tighter, deeper in control. I'm using a Sony Ta1144 amplifier.
Nothing slows down. Damping (largely) kills the unwanted harmonics. Unless you damp untilaperiodic.
dave
Naw im confused. Speakers pushed closer to front wall and lifted by 4in made a HHHUUUGGEE difference. Better bass low low down bass. Better upper frequency all good. Put some wool in and I'm very happy
Right, as I noted earlier and better still if no gap to the floor, i.e. setting on a rigid/massive base such as a concrete slab or box filled with sand.
GM I've got 1in high cones I could put at each corner under the speakers may tighten the sound up some what. If decoupling the speakers is the objective?
Speakers
Speakers
Worth trying if a floating floor construction, otherwise best to add mass to couple it to a concrete or similar floor.
Yes I have the floating floor type. With my previous Pro9 speakers and these we have been discussing, due to the amount of weight the speakers are (35kg) possibly more, sound vibration still travels through the cones. The cones are for speakers, I may need another layer of decoupling. The stands I use for other speakers are the linn, thay are open with square 1in metal structure. Thay have spikes for the floor and spikes for under the speakers. I thinck I will try the concrete approach with spikes under and ontop for speakers.
I have learned allot during the course of this thread. Thank you. I hope it helps others also.
I have learned allot during the course of this thread. Thank you. I hope it helps others also.