Hi All,
I have one of these:
Celestion BL10-100X 10" 100 Watt | The Speaker Factory
Frequency range is stated as 45-3500Hz
Say I build a bass amp using one of the popular amp kits online (suitably matched for power & impedance) - how do I go about limiting or filtering the frequencies that go to the speaker? Is it as easy as an active or a passive crossover? Or is it a fundamental part of bass amp circuit design not available in the popular amp kits online?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Chris.
I have one of these:
Celestion BL10-100X 10" 100 Watt | The Speaker Factory
Frequency range is stated as 45-3500Hz
Say I build a bass amp using one of the popular amp kits online (suitably matched for power & impedance) - how do I go about limiting or filtering the frequencies that go to the speaker? Is it as easy as an active or a passive crossover? Or is it a fundamental part of bass amp circuit design not available in the popular amp kits online?
Thanks for any thoughts.
Chris.
You would normally use an active filter in front of the power amp to get the response you desire.
I'm afraid I can't advise on what kind of response you would need (frequencies and roll off rates) but these things are easily accomplished with an opamp or two.
Have a look here and find the crossover and filters section:
ESP Projects Pages - DIY Audio and Electronics
Linkwitz-Riley Electronic Crossover
I'm afraid I can't advise on what kind of response you would need (frequencies and roll off rates) but these things are easily accomplished with an opamp or two.
Have a look here and find the crossover and filters section:
ESP Projects Pages - DIY Audio and Electronics
Linkwitz-Riley Electronic Crossover
If your talking about a bass guitar combo, there usually full range, usually 2 way. Go active and you can include a shape/countour EQ ( low freq boost )
If you built a properly designed box, it "should" protect the speaker by limiting over excursion, most box designer software will give you cone displacement vs. frequency, you can reach stated X Max but shouldn´t even *approach* X damage, for obvious reasons.
Both are clearly stated in speaker datasheet.
That said, it is good practical Engineering to attenuate frequencies below 40/45Hz , even below 60Hz (no practical cabinets reach below that anyway) .
Most power amps have a resistor to ground at the input, fed through an input capacitor.
Say your amp has a 100k input resistor to ground, changing the input capacitor before it to, say, .047uF is fine, will not affect sound and provide some protection from subsonics which in any way won´t be properly reproduced by speaker.
Resize input cap according to input resistor value so if it´s , say, 10k, then use a .47uF cap (instead of the typical 10uF or so) and so on.
We don´t want an amp which measures or simulates "good", but one which works safely and fine in real world situations.
By the way, that is a good speaker, but a single 10" is *barely* adequate to play by a drummer, 2 of them will be hugely better.
It´s not a "power" problem but how much air you push.
Both are clearly stated in speaker datasheet.
That said, it is good practical Engineering to attenuate frequencies below 40/45Hz , even below 60Hz (no practical cabinets reach below that anyway) .
Most power amps have a resistor to ground at the input, fed through an input capacitor.
Say your amp has a 100k input resistor to ground, changing the input capacitor before it to, say, .047uF is fine, will not affect sound and provide some protection from subsonics which in any way won´t be properly reproduced by speaker.
Resize input cap according to input resistor value so if it´s , say, 10k, then use a .47uF cap (instead of the typical 10uF or so) and so on.
We don´t want an amp which measures or simulates "good", but one which works safely and fine in real world situations.
By the way, that is a good speaker, but a single 10" is *barely* adequate to play by a drummer, 2 of them will be hugely better.
It´s not a "power" problem but how much air you push.
i woulnt bother limiting frequencies.
i ran a mobile disco on 4 speakers that worked up to 3500Hz without crossovers with no problems.
i ran a mobile disco on 4 speakers that worked up to 3500Hz without crossovers with no problems.
Study commercial schematics. Fahey does not publish, but you can find Fender, Ampeg, Peavey, and many many others.
Sharp bass cut is rare.
Treble cut is normally handled well by the speaker.
I'm not saying you want "DC-to-Light", but simple first-order at 20Hz-35Hz and 15KHz-30kHz is probably fine.
Sharp bass cut is rare.
Treble cut is normally handled well by the speaker.
I'm not saying you want "DC-to-Light", but simple first-order at 20Hz-35Hz and 15KHz-30kHz is probably fine.
No ported boxes will typically be protected from over-excursion below tune without dedicated filtering.
The tone control on the bass and the amp will allow you to shape the tone to many player's satisfaction.
As mentioned in the previous post you are best served to add a 2nd order HPF at tune to protect the driver from overexcursion below tune, if the enclosure is ported.
EDIT: not really a suitable driver for a BG. Fs is too high at 74Hz which will increase if you use a sealed enclosure. Qts is a bit high for ported so I'd stear clear of that. With a low Sd and Xmax it's not really much of a driver for BG unless it's only a practice amp. I would never play off stage with anything less than a 15.
Please give some more detail of what you're trying to accomplish in terms of actual use.
For practice at home I use a Laney 8" combo and if that's all you want to build, buy one of these as it was only $A220.
If you cant hear the fundamental you may as well be playing a guitar. I like 15" drivers for bass. Makes that low B on the 5 string turn heads.
I'm certainly going to be implementing some 2nd order attenuation at input, as suggested by JMFahey and Brett. As suggested, I'm looking at some classic amp designs. Also found a couple of handy notes at https://celestion.com/speakerworld/downloads/patech/109.pdf regarding protection, crossover filtering and cab design. I suppose the concept of 'more than one way to skin a cat' is the reason why forums such as diyaudio are so large and active 🙂
Cost is not a huge driver. I absolutely do not need another amp. But I do want to satisfy my DIY itch and build something that I will have the satisfaction of using. I'm good with wattage for rehearsal rooms and live performances (remember those?), so I'm happy with a lounge-room amp in the 50-100W range.
In the past, I've made some passive foldback wedges for myself and fellow band members, a couple of pedals from schematics found on the web, my own D.I. box, etc, all pretty basic stuff and all costing more than buying from a store, but its mainly been for the fun of learning and building something useful.
The speaker was a stupidly cheap second hand store find, and it's in good condition. By way of spec, yes, it lacks some low fundamentals, and is probably best used for sound reinforcement in a 4x10 cab or some such, but I'm happy to make the most of what I've already got. I have also salvaged some large toroidals from e-waste. Happy to buy a kit and just put it together with as many sensible modifications as I can get my head around. Currently looking at a kit such as LM3886, LM3875 or TDA7293.
Grateful for the time everyone is taking to reply, hope everyone is well.
Cost is not a huge driver. I absolutely do not need another amp. But I do want to satisfy my DIY itch and build something that I will have the satisfaction of using. I'm good with wattage for rehearsal rooms and live performances (remember those?), so I'm happy with a lounge-room amp in the 50-100W range.
In the past, I've made some passive foldback wedges for myself and fellow band members, a couple of pedals from schematics found on the web, my own D.I. box, etc, all pretty basic stuff and all costing more than buying from a store, but its mainly been for the fun of learning and building something useful.
The speaker was a stupidly cheap second hand store find, and it's in good condition. By way of spec, yes, it lacks some low fundamentals, and is probably best used for sound reinforcement in a 4x10 cab or some such, but I'm happy to make the most of what I've already got. I have also salvaged some large toroidals from e-waste. Happy to buy a kit and just put it together with as many sensible modifications as I can get my head around. Currently looking at a kit such as LM3886, LM3875 or TDA7293.
Grateful for the time everyone is taking to reply, hope everyone is well.