Thanks for your thoughts.
It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside. Brilliant.
Maybe try using the vacum lifters on the rear corners of the lid and lift up as if rotating around the front edge. if that doesn't work back out the top rear panel screws and try again.
You really need to be posting some HD photos to stop wasting time.
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+1000It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside. Brilliant.
Shenzhen Audio page is reasonably written ... for a Chinese page that is 🙄 😳
That said, google translated Engrish still raises its ugly head.
Add to that typical Chinese marketing/praising where we don´t see much relation to product being promoted, such as:
- " the left and right channels are divided into regions, and the left and right separation is good"
- complete four-way architecture
- Gustard P26 real shot: Rigorous design, reasonable layout, nice workmanship and solid materials
- Machine soft control and volume control
"Two in-line LM49860 dual op amps can be replaced to increase playability"
Define "playability" 🙄
Specially because now:
"Because the DIP8 had been discontinued, the new batch LME49860 was changed to SO-8 version without op-amp socket."
Looks like that specific feature was not SO important after all, I wouldn´t lose sleep over it ... since manufacturers/designers don´t either.
I think it is for a purely aesthetic question only (a great deal IMO): as a matter of fact it is so beautiful, completely smooth and without any visible screw IMO2.It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside.
Looking around I absolutely convinced myself that the type of fixing is magnetic.Magnetic?
I bet that if the OP simply tries to insert a plastic blade (an old credit card thinned?) and to make levers then the top cover rises without damaging itself at all.
Observing these 2 pics, the 3 side holes are clearly visible (it is not P26, but the brand is): the lateral-front side has an oval hole (where probably it hooks a small vertical scrolling hook) and then there are 2 circular hole I guess with magnetic nail (or even unlikely pressure buttons).
So it should start to leverage from the lateral-anterior side upwards because in all probability the horizontal scrolling of the top towards the rear side is blocked by the hook in the oval hole.
So it should start to leverage from the lateral-anterior side upwards because in all probability the horizontal scrolling of the top towards the rear side is blocked by the hook in the oval hole.
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You missed my earlier posts on the photos and that I said I gave up. I appreciate the advice. I don't want to risk breaking something or scratching it. It is a new unit. Many of you are discouraging this experiment.It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside. Brilliant.
Maybe try using the vacum lifters on the rear corners of the lid and lift up as if rotating around the front edge. if that doesn't work back out the top rear panel screws and try again.
You really need to be posting some HD photos to stop wasting time.
You have a much better chance of causing damage if you replace SMD chips again and again, compared to those on a socket.
Good you gave up.
I think it may be a snap fit assembly, you can check for the presence of screws, or lack of them with a magnetic screw driver or similar object.
Good you gave up.
I think it may be a snap fit assembly, you can check for the presence of screws, or lack of them with a magnetic screw driver or similar object.
IMHO Giving up is almost never good. You may do things with prudence (not too very much) and care knowing what you are doing and it's okay, but life seems too short to give up. Just sayin'...
I gave up.
You cant even post a photo? That implies you dont actually have a Gustard to take a photo of. That would also explain why you cant flip its lid. Or maybe you've flipped your lid?
Did you even read this thead? That implies you are lazy.You cant even post a photo? That implies you dont actually have a Gustard to take a photo of. That would also explain why you cant flip its lid. Or maybe you've flipped your lid?
Figuring out what is implied is obviously not your strong suit.You cant even post a photo? That implies you dont actually have a Gustard to take a photo of. That would also explain why you cant flip its lid. Or maybe you've flipped your lid?
Attachments
Well this is progress. You can take a photo after all and actual have the preamp. Next take photos of all the panels so we can see the screws.
By the way you are new here. Not being able to take a lid off is unusual to be polite. Asking for help while ignoring advice doesn't make you look genuine. Then insulting the generosity of members trying to help you for free doesn't do yourself any favours.
By the way you are new here. Not being able to take a lid off is unusual to be polite. Asking for help while ignoring advice doesn't make you look genuine. Then insulting the generosity of members trying to help you for free doesn't do yourself any favours.
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Good.You missed my earlier posts on the photos and that I said I gave up. I appreciate the advice. I don't want to risk breaking something or scratching it. It is a new unit. Many of you are discouraging this experiment.
Specially because in any case the "experiment" won´t lead to any improvement anyway.
All ruler flat vanishing distortion fast devices sound the same, by definition.
Much to the chagrin of Marketers, who claim "buy MY ruler flat, which is flatter than your ruler flat" 😉
For those who may wish to "roll" SOIC-packaged opamps, into gear equipped with DIP-8 sockets:
Sadly it looks like it´s the other way round:
"Because the DIP8 had been discontinued, the new batch LME49860 was changed to SO-8 version without op-amp socket."
Oh, cut the c r a pWell this is progress. You can take a photo after all and actual have the preamp. Next take photos of all the panels so we can see the screws.
By the way you are new here. Not being able to take a lid off is unusual to be polite. Asking for help while ignoring advice doesn't make you look genuine. Then insulting the generosity of members trying to help you for free doesn't do yourself any favours.
Now you are becoming pushy and insulting.
Nice net drag there. A picture is worth a thousand words. That looks like the begining to an answer. Were there any photos of the underneath side?
Well thank goodness you are so good at implying meaning. I'm not as smart as you sorry and I'm not even psychic. Some data will help me to help you if you still want to roll opamps. Your pre might have the sockets and it might even sound better with the Sparkos.Figuring out what is implied is obviously not your strong suit.
When you post photos of all your panels I think the answer will reveal itself. Did you get the hint about flipping your lid? Or are you still all topsy turvy? Check it out. 🙂
Glad you liked it.Nice net drag there. A picture is worth a thousand words. That looks like the begining to an answer. Were there any photos of the underneath side?
Nope, really I made a couple of screenshots "to flight" from the following video
that it seemed to me very suitable because it showed just what needed.
very suitable because it showed just what needed.
Similar case I guess? It doesn't seem like there are any tricks to removing the lid.
The same hereSimilar case I guess?
In other words: I'm reasonably sure the way of closing the lids is typical of the manufacturer, not of the device's model 😉(it is not P26, but the brand is)
Whoa, that's a funny "definition"!All ruler flat vanishing distortion fast devices sound the same, by definition.
(But it fits how this thread is full of "I know stuff and I am right, but you don't know 💩, by definition.").
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