4; 5.5" by 60"
1; 5.5" by 4"
when done it stands 5' tall, its 5.5" wide, and is 7" deep. I
the plan was easy to build, under $225 one driver to do most of the work, small footprint, no stand needed.
there's a 3.625" and a 1.75" hole for mounting the speakers. Im using the Hi-Vi B4N and Tang W2-880sc 2" 1st order XO at 800 using Jantzen foil inductors and solen caps, varry pleasing to the ear and bank. I plan on using the Hi-Vi RT1L for 10k up when the money's easy to part with, but may never happen as these will be rear speakers in my souround sound sys.
I think i will stuff it and see if it helps.
1; 5.5" by 4"
when done it stands 5' tall, its 5.5" wide, and is 7" deep. I
the plan was easy to build, under $225 one driver to do most of the work, small footprint, no stand needed.
there's a 3.625" and a 1.75" hole for mounting the speakers. Im using the Hi-Vi B4N and Tang W2-880sc 2" 1st order XO at 800 using Jantzen foil inductors and solen caps, varry pleasing to the ear and bank. I plan on using the Hi-Vi RT1L for 10k up when the money's easy to part with, but may never happen as these will be rear speakers in my souround sound sys.
I think i will stuff it and see if it helps.
If you want to retro fit rather than rebuild perhaps I could suggest (I'm sure others will debunk my comments should they be in any way off-target).
First cut some bits of dowel, or better still, some bits of 30x30mm MDF which is denser, so that they are a bit shorter than the interior width of the baffle (or depth if the front and back baffle are vibrating), now put some big blobs of blue-tac or similar on the ends. Experiment with placing the sticks at various locations on the interior o the baffle to minimise the resonances (some reading up on how materials resonate in sheet from would be handy to get an imperical feel for where to put them).
When you are satisfied (hopefully you'll be able to get into the inner-sections of the enclosure), then move on to the second step.
Cutting pieces of dowel to almost the exact width ot the interior of the enclosure and first, place some wood working glue on the ends and place them in the locations where the previous experiment showed the best results.
You'll have to figure out a way of holding the pieces in place whilst they dry.
If the enclosure is yet unfinished, i.e. you intend of laminating it or finishing it with paint, you could screw the pieces in place. Predrill the holes and use countersunk screws to get them flush with the side of the enclosure.
If anyone else out there cares to add, or correct, feel free........................
First cut some bits of dowel, or better still, some bits of 30x30mm MDF which is denser, so that they are a bit shorter than the interior width of the baffle (or depth if the front and back baffle are vibrating), now put some big blobs of blue-tac or similar on the ends. Experiment with placing the sticks at various locations on the interior o the baffle to minimise the resonances (some reading up on how materials resonate in sheet from would be handy to get an imperical feel for where to put them).
When you are satisfied (hopefully you'll be able to get into the inner-sections of the enclosure), then move on to the second step.
Cutting pieces of dowel to almost the exact width ot the interior of the enclosure and first, place some wood working glue on the ends and place them in the locations where the previous experiment showed the best results.
You'll have to figure out a way of holding the pieces in place whilst they dry.
If the enclosure is yet unfinished, i.e. you intend of laminating it or finishing it with paint, you could screw the pieces in place. Predrill the holes and use countersunk screws to get them flush with the side of the enclosure.
If anyone else out there cares to add, or correct, feel free........................
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