Within the last month my wife and myself took a road trip to Dallas where I purchased a pair of the older Monitor Audio silver 8i speakers. These are the ones with the copper phase plugs used in the mid bass/midrange drivers. The original owner purchased them in Kansas City when he lived there roughly around 2010. Super nice guy and local teacher. Prior to the trip I read several reviews and from time to time someone would mention the harshness of the tweeters so I prepared myself. Once I got home I connected them to power. The mid bass for surprising for the 5" woofer but the top end seemed lacking, lifeless of you will. I eventually realized that neither tweeter was playing. Zero noise. I removed the crossover and everything checked out. I then pulled the tweeter and checked them both with a multimeter....nothing....zero. Also no sound when hooked up to a source.
I reached out to the seller and he offered to do whatever to make it right and apologized. The only issue is that he is 4 hours away and I feel I originally got a great deal for the pair. So I contact Monitor audio quoted 123.00 per tweeter plus SH. That is more than I paid for the speakers. So this is what brings me here. Does anyone no the producer of the tweeter or perfect replacement? The Monitor Audio tweeter model # is TM025. I assume it is an 8ohm tweeter.
I reached out to the seller and he offered to do whatever to make it right and apologized. The only issue is that he is 4 hours away and I feel I originally got a great deal for the pair. So I contact Monitor audio quoted 123.00 per tweeter plus SH. That is more than I paid for the speakers. So this is what brings me here. Does anyone no the producer of the tweeter or perfect replacement? The Monitor Audio tweeter model # is TM025. I assume it is an 8ohm tweeter.
Sounds like an Audax. In which case, once you figure out which of a dozen different versions you have, you may get a replacement coil/dome assenbly. What markings are on the tweeters? Should be marked for impedence, then take one apart, see if there's ferrofluid. That will narrow it down quite a bit. You should be able to get close enough to adjust the level and be pretty good.
So- markings, fluid?,look up a crossover schema, maybe some pics. Both repair ***'ys and whole tweeters are available from various vendors. Not too hard, you can do this.
edit: automatic censor thought I used a 'bad' word when I abbreviated assembly. Did not work out well for a certain newspaper that changed sprinter Tyson Gay's name automatically in a headline when he won a race.
So- markings, fluid?,look up a crossover schema, maybe some pics. Both repair ***'ys and whole tweeters are available from various vendors. Not too hard, you can do this.
edit: automatic censor thought I used a 'bad' word when I abbreviated assembly. Did not work out well for a certain newspaper that changed sprinter Tyson Gay's name automatically in a headline when he won a race.
Last edited:
I'll try to get a pic of the tweeter back up today. I'm not sure of the impedance unless it is within the tweeter model number. If the tweeter is indeed an out of house part Monitor Audio has placed one of their stickers over the back of the tweeter.
Audax was very big in the oem market. I have some from Yamaha speakers that are marked Yamaha(though the woofers have Seas markings).
I'll try to gather some decisions and Crack one open this weekend. I'd tried to figure out how to separate the tweeter from the plastic bezel.....further investigation will be needed.
Dang. Glued. Well there is a seas at madisound with the same shape. Measure the baffle inset and through-hole. If it fits, we'll help you adapt your crossover to it. Not as hard as knocking down a missile.
Boswald. I appreciate that. I'll get some measurements and a pic of the crossover network as well.
OK so I busted both tweeters off of the bezel. Out of magnets are 1.25"
Domes measure at 1"
Ferro fluid is there.
Still was not able to get a ohm measurement.
Domes measure at 1"
Ferro fluid is there.
Still was not able to get a ohm measurement.
Seas 25TFFN/QG at madisound is probably your best bet. Measure the flange and cutout and see how close you are.
I've ran those textiles in a 2 way car audio set up. I'd have to say that in a 2 way they aren't my favorite. What about the LPG 26NA Aluminum which is 8ohm or the Seas
Prestige 27TAFNC/G (H1397) which says to be 4 ohm, but north are a metal dome teeter.
Prestige 27TAFNC/G (H1397) which says to be 4 ohm, but north are a metal dome teeter.
If you do a nice job with fitting them to the faceplate, there are lots of 'faceless' tweeters you could use and keep the look. Even ring radiators.
I know this sounds a bit obvious, but have you tried pealing the sticker off the back of the magnet? It may be hiding the manufacturer information.
I just measured a couple of working tweeters on the 200 Ohm scale, and I got 6.6 and 7.5 ohms. 0.8 makes no sense at all! Except broken! 😀
The world is your oyster on replacements. Mostly what will fit and look nice, IMO. It's a small one, isn't it. About 75mm faceplate. You should measure the magnet cutout, and the fixing plate and screw holes (if you get lucky... and not have to redrill some).
I notice the originals have a Visaton-style large pin on positive and small pin on negative, which would be a bonus to duplicate on a replacement. Saves new crimp fixings.
100+ Tweeters in stock from Vifa, Dayton Audio, Aurum Cantus, Goldwood, Beston, and other High Quality Tweeter brands.
I'd guess this is a 8 ohm 88dB tweeter with a 6" 2.5 way and a 4uF tweeter capacitor. So preferably 8 ohms nominal, which is 6 ohms DC.
Different types of tweeters have a different sound, mostly down to the material. It's really incredibly easy to adjust tweeter level with a $1 resistor or two for the final adjustments.
The world is your oyster on replacements. Mostly what will fit and look nice, IMO. It's a small one, isn't it. About 75mm faceplate. You should measure the magnet cutout, and the fixing plate and screw holes (if you get lucky... and not have to redrill some).
I notice the originals have a Visaton-style large pin on positive and small pin on negative, which would be a bonus to duplicate on a replacement. Saves new crimp fixings.
100+ Tweeters in stock from Vifa, Dayton Audio, Aurum Cantus, Goldwood, Beston, and other High Quality Tweeter brands.
I'd guess this is a 8 ohm 88dB tweeter with a 6" 2.5 way and a 4uF tweeter capacitor. So preferably 8 ohms nominal, which is 6 ohms DC.
Different types of tweeters have a different sound, mostly down to the material. It's really incredibly easy to adjust tweeter level with a $1 resistor or two for the final adjustments.
Last edited:
I can tell you what that 2.5 crossover is just by looking at it. About 4mH on the bass, about 1mH and 8uF on the midbass, and 4uf and about 0.3mH on the tweeter. The resistor might be level adjusting the tweeter. Or it might be in the 8uF shunt on the midbass.
TBH, it can be improved. But that's for another day. 🙂
- Status
- Not open for further replies.