Hello all,
I’m trying to help a friend out a bit. I just thought I’d run this by you all and see what you thought.
He just bought an Okyno HT system, and it came with a 10” sub. It’s the SKW530 if you’re interested in looking it up. It puts out about 150w RMS @ 4ohm best I can tell (power consumption, it’s “max” is something like 230w). Literature doesn’t say if it’s 2 ohm stable, I’m assuming it’s not.
So, my friend, he swapped in his RF 1210 DVC just to see, and it obviously got a lot louder. I told him there might be a better solution if he wanted to enhance the bass response. And this is where it gets tricky. The RF sub is dual 4ohm coils, and so the amp is obviously either going to work too hard and fry (hasn’t yet, maybe it won’t) or we wire it in series and it only puts out 75w probably. Neither is a great solution.
The next dilemma is that the box is tuned poorly. It’s 38.1L tuned to something like 48hz. Dims are 16 7/8” ID X 14 ½” ID X 9 ½” ID (only made from ½” MDF). That doesn’t factor in driver volume or the V the plate amp takes up. Port is 3.5” x 8” dbl flared. Basically, it’s got a big ******* hump in the response at 50hz, and then the response craps out, the driver gets all unloaded, and this is bad. Plus the port wind will blow paper off of the table 5ft away (80+ fps?). Neat trick, poor solution.
So, I go to trying to find a suitable driver for this little box, and I really can’t find one that out performs the RF ported at this wattage, and sealing the port really drops the response, though it does help lowend.
I’m thinking he just needs to hack the port and see how long he can get it… even getting it up to 11” would be a dramatic change (5 or 6db increase at 25hz I think), and keep the sub from bottoming as easily. What he really needs is bigger box and a longer port, but the port lies in the 14.5” dimension so it can’t get too long (btw, how close to the wall is safe, one port diameter?). I don’t think he’d be too into building a new box yet… the system is like, three weeks old.
Any killer low prices subs that would make a big difference at 150w input? I’ve looked at some of Peerless’s offerings, and they improve it a little, but not a lot because of the tuning frequency and box size. Sensitivity is as big a deal as anything with this power level. Or, since it's hard to tell him to spend $150 to gain 3db, should we just try to get the port as long as possible, and accept that that's as good as it gets with this box?
Thanks,
P.
I’m trying to help a friend out a bit. I just thought I’d run this by you all and see what you thought.
He just bought an Okyno HT system, and it came with a 10” sub. It’s the SKW530 if you’re interested in looking it up. It puts out about 150w RMS @ 4ohm best I can tell (power consumption, it’s “max” is something like 230w). Literature doesn’t say if it’s 2 ohm stable, I’m assuming it’s not.
So, my friend, he swapped in his RF 1210 DVC just to see, and it obviously got a lot louder. I told him there might be a better solution if he wanted to enhance the bass response. And this is where it gets tricky. The RF sub is dual 4ohm coils, and so the amp is obviously either going to work too hard and fry (hasn’t yet, maybe it won’t) or we wire it in series and it only puts out 75w probably. Neither is a great solution.
The next dilemma is that the box is tuned poorly. It’s 38.1L tuned to something like 48hz. Dims are 16 7/8” ID X 14 ½” ID X 9 ½” ID (only made from ½” MDF). That doesn’t factor in driver volume or the V the plate amp takes up. Port is 3.5” x 8” dbl flared. Basically, it’s got a big ******* hump in the response at 50hz, and then the response craps out, the driver gets all unloaded, and this is bad. Plus the port wind will blow paper off of the table 5ft away (80+ fps?). Neat trick, poor solution.
So, I go to trying to find a suitable driver for this little box, and I really can’t find one that out performs the RF ported at this wattage, and sealing the port really drops the response, though it does help lowend.
I’m thinking he just needs to hack the port and see how long he can get it… even getting it up to 11” would be a dramatic change (5 or 6db increase at 25hz I think), and keep the sub from bottoming as easily. What he really needs is bigger box and a longer port, but the port lies in the 14.5” dimension so it can’t get too long (btw, how close to the wall is safe, one port diameter?). I don’t think he’d be too into building a new box yet… the system is like, three weeks old.
Any killer low prices subs that would make a big difference at 150w input? I’ve looked at some of Peerless’s offerings, and they improve it a little, but not a lot because of the tuning frequency and box size. Sensitivity is as big a deal as anything with this power level. Or, since it's hard to tell him to spend $150 to gain 3db, should we just try to get the port as long as possible, and accept that that's as good as it gets with this box?
Thanks,
P.
I'd try with a longer port first, yes usually it's one port diameter away but it's already very noisy so you can't make miracles, you could even make less than one port diameter away, or another solution is to make the port external.
Good luck!
Good luck!
By the way, I had no idea that using "freaking" as an adjective resulted in the word being filtered...
who knew?
P
who knew?
P
Oh and about the wiring, wire one coil to the amp and then jumper the other coil, this will raise the QTs a bit and lower the RMS power handling by half, but it will keep the parameters close enough that if he likes it in the box now, hell like it in the box after.
So, since the RMS handling for the sub is 400w, the 150 the amp puts out shouldn't hurt just going to one 4ohm coil. By jumpering, I assume that's just hooking the + & - on the unused coil?
Thanks,
P.
Thanks,
P.
Exactly, if you find that the transistion between open usused coil and closed unused coil is too great, you can put a resistor there to be in between.
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