When calculating dimensions,
If compression chambers are lined with Deflex, cork or what ever,
Is the inside volume adjusted (increased) to include the thickness of what the chamber is lined with?
In a horn with straight, parallel walls (e.g. Nagaoka),
Is it worth lining the walls with something to break-up standing waves?
(cork, or maybe gluing ½ round dowel to the walls?)
Should the inside of the horn be finished smooth, rough, or does it matter?
Thanx,
Robert
If compression chambers are lined with Deflex, cork or what ever,
Is the inside volume adjusted (increased) to include the thickness of what the chamber is lined with?
In a horn with straight, parallel walls (e.g. Nagaoka),
Is it worth lining the walls with something to break-up standing waves?
(cork, or maybe gluing ½ round dowel to the walls?)
Should the inside of the horn be finished smooth, rough, or does it matter?
Thanx,
Robert
I don't think that horn dimensioning is all that critical. Regarding
absorbent material to break up standing waves in the horn,
see the KleinHorn pt 2 on www.passdiy.com where the first
part is devoted to observations on that issue.
absorbent material to break up standing waves in the horn,
see the KleinHorn pt 2 on www.passdiy.com where the first
part is devoted to observations on that issue.
serenechaos said:When calculating dimensions,
If compression chambers are lined with Deflex, cork or what ever,
Is the inside volume adjusted (increased) to include the thickness of what the chamber is lined with?
In a horn with straight, parallel walls (e.g. Nagaoka),
Is it worth lining the walls with something to break-up standing waves?
(cork, or maybe gluing ½ round dowel to the walls?)
Should the inside of the horn be finished smooth, rough, or does it matter?
Thanx,
Robert
Hi Robert, The inside surface of a horn shouldbe a rigid non-absorbing structure. I once got the hint to line up the walls of my K-horn midrange horn with felt or other sound-absorbing material. When I did that the sound was completely attenuated, gone!
😎
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