New Questions? Updated BA-3 as a Pre Questions from a noob...
Greetings all, Let me preface this by saying yes I have extensively searched both here and on the web in general, as well as read hundreds of pages in Pass Forum here. So yes, I have searched, and trying not to waste anyones time. I am trying to put all my lingering questions in here, but I'm sure there is something I am not thinking of.
Great info on here (it was good enough to help prod me into building, that and a member on here). So this is my first build, so some things are over my head, and I still have lingering questions. Mods if I didn't place this correctly please move, thanks. In case the following questions relate to my equipment... I recently bought a First Watt M2 (Love it!, hence the BA-3 pre), and my speakers are Klipsch Cornwalls which I think are around 102db. Very efficient and nope you can't hear a peep from the M2, no hum.
BA-3 Pre Amplifier.
Power regulator Questions:
I did a Kubota low noise power regulator kit off ebay. I'm smart enough to look at my pretty soldering on the BA-3 pcb, vs my start on the Kubota, to know that I am doing another Kubota power reg. However, I see many comments saying to do a shunt power reg (I don't know what that is), the description of the Kubota mentions shunt, but in one of my searches here I saw comments saying that is actually a series power reg.
1A. So, should I do another Kubota for the power reg in the BA-3 pre, or is there something (kit ideally) that I should be building instead?
Selector Switch Questions:
I saw the select 2 used by 6L6 in the guide and went for that, but its been "out of stock" on tubecad for like forever. I know I want the ability to have 3-4 sources via RCA and the other alternatives on there have like 6 inputs.
2A. Can you have a rotary selector that can say accommodate 6, but set perhaps a pin to prevent the last two inputs? (and not a $200 one).
2B. I also see that most in the pictures in the ba-3 build guide thread show what looks like a plus and minus wires going from the rca jack to the selector, with the jacks themselves I assume creating their ground with the chassis. But I see rotary selector switches that in addition to what I assume is plus and minus wires, they also have a ground wire each going into the input selector... Is this necessary?
2C. Recommendations?
Chassis Questions:
Ok, so what I want to do is get maybe a 2U or 3U chassis through here from Hifi2000. I'm going to get the 10mm faceplate. I want go whole hog on this faceplate and do it up nice. If I don't somehow ruin my build and I love the sound etc, etc... I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm gonna love it, so its going to be a keeper.
3A. If I have 3 knobs on the front (rotary ac switch, attenuator, rotary input selector) and I want to counter set them through cnc machining of the 10mm faceplate (sorry probably don't know the right terminology) how much wider should the cnc machining be than the knob. For example if the knob had a 40mm diameter, how much wider should the machining be?
3B. If the rod or shaft of the switches is typically 6mm, how big should the drill hole be?
3C. I used frontpaneldesigner with a template file found on here of the slimline 2U 10mm, I can force it to make the DXF file to export, not sure if this can only be read by FPE or not, but would it be enough to send along to hifi200 in italy?
3D. I assume FPE cnc work is a bit better judging from the comments I have read?
3E. I can't tell if Front Panel Express can re-anodize the panel like Hifi2000 offers... Do they (FPE)?
Volume Attenuator Questions:
I think I have settled on the GoldPoint v24 smd la. Don't get me wrong the v47 looks super sexy..
4A. Is the v47 worth the extra $100?
4B. Assuming I get the v24 (I guess same question either way), Goldpoint offers 5K, 10K, 20K, 25K, 50K, 100K, and 250K... I assume I want either 25K or 50K... but probably 25K?
4C. Am I right in the assumption of 25K?
4D. Remember I'm a noob or electronics dum dum at the moment so dumb this down for me... but how would the 25K and the 50K differ?
Thanks so so so much for humoring me and answering my questions!
Greetings all, Let me preface this by saying yes I have extensively searched both here and on the web in general, as well as read hundreds of pages in Pass Forum here. So yes, I have searched, and trying not to waste anyones time. I am trying to put all my lingering questions in here, but I'm sure there is something I am not thinking of.
Great info on here (it was good enough to help prod me into building, that and a member on here). So this is my first build, so some things are over my head, and I still have lingering questions. Mods if I didn't place this correctly please move, thanks. In case the following questions relate to my equipment... I recently bought a First Watt M2 (Love it!, hence the BA-3 pre), and my speakers are Klipsch Cornwalls which I think are around 102db. Very efficient and nope you can't hear a peep from the M2, no hum.
BA-3 Pre Amplifier.
Power regulator Questions:
I did a Kubota low noise power regulator kit off ebay. I'm smart enough to look at my pretty soldering on the BA-3 pcb, vs my start on the Kubota, to know that I am doing another Kubota power reg. However, I see many comments saying to do a shunt power reg (I don't know what that is), the description of the Kubota mentions shunt, but in one of my searches here I saw comments saying that is actually a series power reg.
1A. So, should I do another Kubota for the power reg in the BA-3 pre, or is there something (kit ideally) that I should be building instead?
Selector Switch Questions:
I saw the select 2 used by 6L6 in the guide and went for that, but its been "out of stock" on tubecad for like forever. I know I want the ability to have 3-4 sources via RCA and the other alternatives on there have like 6 inputs.
2A. Can you have a rotary selector that can say accommodate 6, but set perhaps a pin to prevent the last two inputs? (and not a $200 one).
2B. I also see that most in the pictures in the ba-3 build guide thread show what looks like a plus and minus wires going from the rca jack to the selector, with the jacks themselves I assume creating their ground with the chassis. But I see rotary selector switches that in addition to what I assume is plus and minus wires, they also have a ground wire each going into the input selector... Is this necessary?
2C. Recommendations?
Chassis Questions:
Ok, so what I want to do is get maybe a 2U or 3U chassis through here from Hifi2000. I'm going to get the 10mm faceplate. I want go whole hog on this faceplate and do it up nice. If I don't somehow ruin my build and I love the sound etc, etc... I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm gonna love it, so its going to be a keeper.
3A. If I have 3 knobs on the front (rotary ac switch, attenuator, rotary input selector) and I want to counter set them through cnc machining of the 10mm faceplate (sorry probably don't know the right terminology) how much wider should the cnc machining be than the knob. For example if the knob had a 40mm diameter, how much wider should the machining be?
3B. If the rod or shaft of the switches is typically 6mm, how big should the drill hole be?
3C. I used frontpaneldesigner with a template file found on here of the slimline 2U 10mm, I can force it to make the DXF file to export, not sure if this can only be read by FPE or not, but would it be enough to send along to hifi200 in italy?
3D. I assume FPE cnc work is a bit better judging from the comments I have read?
3E. I can't tell if Front Panel Express can re-anodize the panel like Hifi2000 offers... Do they (FPE)?
Volume Attenuator Questions:
I think I have settled on the GoldPoint v24 smd la. Don't get me wrong the v47 looks super sexy..
4A. Is the v47 worth the extra $100?
4B. Assuming I get the v24 (I guess same question either way), Goldpoint offers 5K, 10K, 20K, 25K, 50K, 100K, and 250K... I assume I want either 25K or 50K... but probably 25K?
4C. Am I right in the assumption of 25K?
4D. Remember I'm a noob or electronics dum dum at the moment so dumb this down for me... but how would the 25K and the 50K differ?
Thanks so so so much for humoring me and answering my questions!
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Look for Salas Reflektor power supplies
It's a matter of preference, although Salas work is good. I know someone who prefers Salas shunt supplies. I used Jung/Didden supplies and LM317 for BA3-pre for higher current capablity.
I know Greyhill and NKK have stop pins. Check Mouser.com
I don't think so. The positive signal goes to the input pins of the switch.
you can use a bus bar to connect all the grounds, then that ground to signal ground or all grounds from the RCAs to a star-ground point.
You're going to love it.
That's up to you. 1mm wider? People here use Front Panel Express with great success. maybe it will help you design your panel.
You want to drill for the threading. Get yourself a pair of measuring calipers, if building will be your thing, you'll need them.
I have not idea. Looks like you know FPE.
It better be.
I don't know.
Obviously finer adjustment. Doubt it will sound different.
25K
Depending where you place it, it can affect the input or output impedance of the circuit. Too small an value or too large a value can affect the amount of attenuation. Maybe someone else can explain it better.
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If I remember correctly the Salas reflector goes up to max 7-8V
The Salas SSLV bib should be more appropriate
The Salas SSLV bib should be more appropriate
BTW Hifi2000 can also customize the front panel. I just do not know if they only create holes, or they can also create cavities. They charge cnc customization "by the hole", and can re-anodize the plate (for some extra money)
Send them an email asking before making your final decision
Send them an email asking before making your final decision
I use these for the front panel when using 6mm extension rods from the volume control and input selector switch.
164006008 UNBRANDED, Spacer, Round, Nylon 6.6, 8x10mm | Farnell UK
164006008 UNBRANDED, Spacer, Round, Nylon 6.6, 8x10mm | Farnell UK
So I have yet another question. My wife was asking if we could spend a lil more to get remote control possibilities in the BA-3 as a Pre (I had to pinch myself and make sure I wasn’t dreaming)
What are the remote control possibilities? GREAT SOUNDING ones! Volume is more important to me than source selection so I’m open. I know/think I don’t want anything that has an opamp in it, I feel like that could mess with the purity of what I am trying to do here. I’ve red a bunch of stuff about LDR but as a 3rd party bystander it comes off like mixed opinions like everything in hifi. And I saw that the audio society of MN used some solution in their ba-3 pre’s but I could never find the item online. I’ve seen some chatter on arduino based stuff, but I don’t know if that’s way over my head.
Any suggestions or help would be great! Thanks in advance
What are the remote control possibilities? GREAT SOUNDING ones! Volume is more important to me than source selection so I’m open. I know/think I don’t want anything that has an opamp in it, I feel like that could mess with the purity of what I am trying to do here. I’ve red a bunch of stuff about LDR but as a 3rd party bystander it comes off like mixed opinions like everything in hifi. And I saw that the audio society of MN used some solution in their ba-3 pre’s but I could never find the item online. I’ve seen some chatter on arduino based stuff, but I don’t know if that’s way over my head.
Any suggestions or help would be great! Thanks in advance
I guess you could get away with a 10K, but check if it's possible.
ABBRES Audio Remote Control System
I don't know if this is any good. I have purchased an input switcher and it looks like a nice kit.
MV02 4Way Motorized Remote Volume Control Input KIT | eBay
ABBRES Audio Remote Control System
I don't know if this is any good. I have purchased an input switcher and it looks like a nice kit.
MV02 4Way Motorized Remote Volume Control Input KIT | eBay
I bought two of those MV02 remote kits some years ago.
I built one kit into a birthday present and it is still working reliably.
Unfortunately during the build I swapped the two 2pin connectors and blew up the controller chip. I now have a nice 6way relay board for another duty.
I did report an operational problem back then.
The vol pot always returns to zero setting after turn on and during a selector changeover (if I remember correctly). Quickly depressing the "vol" button stops that turn down to hold the last vol setting.
I built one kit into a birthday present and it is still working reliably.
Unfortunately during the build I swapped the two 2pin connectors and blew up the controller chip. I now have a nice 6way relay board for another duty.
I did report an operational problem back then.
The vol pot always returns to zero setting after turn on and during a selector changeover (if I remember correctly). Quickly depressing the "vol" button stops that turn down to hold the last vol setting.
Check the relaixed passive volume control and input selector. It has its own psu and front panel 8 segment volume indicator. It works quite well. I have used it in my own build.
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