Velleman VM124 is a nice 1A regulator. It is all you will need.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-16.html
Has been discussing LM317/337 and the fact that they are rather better than most give credit for. But again Choice is good.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-16.html
Has been discussing LM317/337 and the fact that they are rather better than most give credit for. But again Choice is good.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-16.html
Meaning? What are they not good for and why? I'm interested in understanding their limitations in your experience.
Your suggestion are much appreciated, but since I am still at a rather basic level with electronics, it would probably be best to start simple, and not get involved in LED stacking and component matching just yet.. For the original design B1, I have my eye on a single ended regulation with LM317 (see pic). It is 10 usd from a reputable ebay seller, and have decent quality components, as far as I can tell (the similar units with no-name caps etc are 4-5 usd). So that should be a good starting point, and I can focus on making the B1 board 🙂
Then I can always upgrade, and try different, and more advanced solutions. I am quite tempted by the DCB1 design, so I could do that as next project perhaps - but also have that F6 to build... 😛
In any case, I am slowly starting to grasp the complexities in the whole single ended vs. symmetrical, and cap buffer vs. DC coupled issue. Makes me want to solder some stuff you know 😉
Then I can always upgrade, and try different, and more advanced solutions. I am quite tempted by the DCB1 design, so I could do that as next project perhaps - but also have that F6 to build... 😛
In any case, I am slowly starting to grasp the complexities in the whole single ended vs. symmetrical, and cap buffer vs. DC coupled issue. Makes me want to solder some stuff you know 😉
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"Good enough for rock'n'roll" meaning they are more than good enough in my opinion. Also for classical music @ 24/192. The B1 is simple so I choose a simple regulator, but in my opinion a better solution than a wall wart. You could of course go for some more complicated regulators like Borbely All-FET or similar. But it will increase cost, and maybe not give you much in return. LM317 ain't that bad either.
@jvbh: Fair enough, if you are dipping a first toe, build as close to spec as you can, then mod as you get more experienced/brave. The B1 even works with a laptop PSU well enough, so you have lots of easy start options.
@R-K R: Ah misunderstood you. We are on the same page
@R-K R: Ah misunderstood you. We are on the same page
Yes, Sorry my post was maybe a little provocative. ��. I find the Velleman regulator works well. BTW it has some rectifiers like 1N4004 or such, I replaced them with some snappy Vishay or IRFs.
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