Dear All,
Is there anybody out there who has done a crossover rework (or a completely new one) of those speakers?
I really love the way they sound but I feel that I could have definitely something better "just" by replacing all this "very cheap" parts.
Those iron with air core inductors or get rid of those pathetic electrolytic capacitors (specially from the mid range) the 7 Watt Wire wound resistors, the internal Van den Haul cables, the Binding post and so on.
But since the values of the original crossover parts don't actually exist as a crossover part values (85mf 70V 5% electrolytic) should I start to deviate from the original values?
Is there any real benefit to have the parts in parallel same quality as the parts in serial?
I don't plan to use the crossovers original pcb.
Best Regards
Is there anybody out there who has done a crossover rework (or a completely new one) of those speakers?
I really love the way they sound but I feel that I could have definitely something better "just" by replacing all this "very cheap" parts.
Those iron with air core inductors or get rid of those pathetic electrolytic capacitors (specially from the mid range) the 7 Watt Wire wound resistors, the internal Van den Haul cables, the Binding post and so on.
But since the values of the original crossover parts don't actually exist as a crossover part values (85mf 70V 5% electrolytic) should I start to deviate from the original values?
Is there any real benefit to have the parts in parallel same quality as the parts in serial?
I don't plan to use the crossovers original pcb.
Best Regards
Hi zavan,
There's no need for high quality parts on the C5 cap for the woofer, you ok with a Bipolar Electrolytic Capacitor. Now, take a closer look at the 5% tol. (good), and have attention with the 70V (can make it bigger) and 100/250V caps are very handy but is not necessary probably. What you may need after all is a new cap if that one is getting old and if it has a different measured value.
Pay attention with inductors, they all have internal resistance, max power.
Pay attention with resistors, they should be ok (n.inductive), some are better than others, at least they (these) were tested already.
(keep the old one intact), compare and see how it sounds.
There's no need for high quality parts on the C5 cap for the woofer, you ok with a Bipolar Electrolytic Capacitor. Now, take a closer look at the 5% tol. (good), and have attention with the 70V (can make it bigger) and 100/250V caps are very handy but is not necessary probably. What you may need after all is a new cap if that one is getting old and if it has a different measured value.
Pay attention with inductors, they all have internal resistance, max power.
Pay attention with resistors, they should be ok (n.inductive), some are better than others, at least they (these) were tested already.
Don't go so fast...
You can test a new xover
(keep the old one intact), compare and see how it sounds.
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You can measure your coils, and check for thickness of the wire, no?
Link for manual here.
Now, the quality of the caps is more important for voice other than bass (high freq.).
If you mess with inductors, let's say a good cored coil instead of an air core (in series with woofer), the RDC tends to go down what makes your output go up, maybe 1dB or so. Then all the other drivers need to be leveled up. There's no "bad component" in that sense, more a matter of assemblage.
Link for manual here.
Now, the quality of the caps is more important for voice other than bass (high freq.).
If you mess with inductors, let's say a good cored coil instead of an air core (in series with woofer), the RDC tends to go down what makes your output go up, maybe 1dB or so. Then all the other drivers need to be leveled up. There's no "bad component" in that sense, more a matter of assemblage.
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