B&W CDM 1 SE - inside cables replacement
Hello,
I want to replace inside (betwwen loudspeakers, crossover, sockets) cable in my CDM 1 SE. Original are poor and thin. I think about changeit to AudioQuest CV-4 or Cardas CrossLink, Van den Hul CS-122, Van den Hul D-532, Van den Hul The Wind , maybe other, better ? I must achieve more relaxing, smooth, warm sound, no emphasize, no painful mid/high. My system is Marantz CD-6000 and PM-7000, so little bright. Which cable will be the best to my expect sound and preferences, to calm down (especially in rock music, vocals, snare drum, sharp guitars, and the oter noises and shouts, and bad recording in CD) ? I shold change my loudspeaker cables between amp and speakers too, maybe the same as inside speakers ? At the moment I use SonicLink AST-200.
Thanks and Regards
Alex2
Hello,
I want to replace inside (betwwen loudspeakers, crossover, sockets) cable in my CDM 1 SE. Original are poor and thin. I think about changeit to AudioQuest CV-4 or Cardas CrossLink, Van den Hul CS-122, Van den Hul D-532, Van den Hul The Wind , maybe other, better ? I must achieve more relaxing, smooth, warm sound, no emphasize, no painful mid/high. My system is Marantz CD-6000 and PM-7000, so little bright. Which cable will be the best to my expect sound and preferences, to calm down (especially in rock music, vocals, snare drum, sharp guitars, and the oter noises and shouts, and bad recording in CD) ? I shold change my loudspeaker cables between amp and speakers too, maybe the same as inside speakers ? At the moment I use SonicLink AST-200.
Thanks and Regards
Alex2
painful mid/high
You might be looking for a painful way to ameliorate what is likely a driver/crossover problem. You'll probably end up with different speakers at the end.
perfect candidate
You sound to me like the perfect candidate for Mogami 3082.
Cheap and creamy..... http://www.meyer.co.kr/mogami/speaker1.htm
You sound to me like the perfect candidate for Mogami 3082.
Cheap and creamy..... http://www.meyer.co.kr/mogami/speaker1.htm
I am using 14awg solid copper simple house wire and it is a better match for my new system than the Belden 89259 cross connect ones that I made before. May be you can try something cheap first rather than spending big bucks right away. If the shop let you try them first then it is ok. My other system prefer the Belden diy cable so it is just try to match the right cables for a particular system. All cables are good when nicely matched IMO.
Best of luck,
Chris
Actually are you sure that it is not the amp that is in need of replacement?
Best of luck,
Chris
Actually are you sure that it is not the amp that is in need of replacement?
So you need to 'calm down' mid-highs in rock music at high listening levels?
I'd suggest to buy a constant-Q 1/3 octave stereo equalizer [or even a multi-band compressor]. It will be far more effective after learning how to use it
I'd suggest to buy a constant-Q 1/3 octave stereo equalizer [or even a multi-band compressor]. It will be far more effective after learning how to use it
"painful mid/high" doesn't sound like a cable problem to me. You might want to consider an equalizer, or a slight tweaking of the crossover. But the term 'painful' also implies distortion, not just the voicing of the system. Do you listen to the system at high volumes or in a large room? If not, try swapping some borrowed components to see if you can find the cause of the distress in the sound.
Cheers.
Cheers.
I also use a pair of B&W CDM 1 SE. For me a great improvement came about from disconnecting the internal tweeter and placing a ribbon tweeter on top, with its own crossover. I don't think replacing wires could make the same degree of improvement that the new tweeter did.
I suggest you try some no nonsense engineering.
Wire a 1R resistor in series with and a 20R resistor in parallel with the tweeter.
Then worry about your cables.
🙂 sreten.
Wire a 1R resistor in series with and a 20R resistor in parallel with the tweeter.
Then worry about your cables.
🙂 sreten.
Hello,
Thanks a lot,
I'm listenning in a low volume level (at 8 or 9 o'clock).
I want to stay with PM7000, CD6000, because I spent some money for upgrades and one remote control is very helpfull for me, I have Maranz tunet ST-6000 too .
Regards
Alex2
Thanks a lot,
I'm listenning in a low volume level (at 8 or 9 o'clock).
I want to stay with PM7000, CD6000, because I spent some money for upgrades and one remote control is very helpfull for me, I have Maranz tunet ST-6000 too .
Regards
Alex2
Hi!
You cable you want is Kimber 4VS. It does not have teflon insulation, it is thick, and it does not have silver plating, it is braided. In other words, the features that are said to make a cable sound nasty are avoided. Insulation is polyethylene. It cured the incredible harshness in my system, it was a transformation far greater than going to a double priced amp, in this department.
You absolutely want to use it from amp to speakers too.
I'd be stunned if it didn't at least go some way to achieving your stated goals, really stunned!
You cable you want is Kimber 4VS. It does not have teflon insulation, it is thick, and it does not have silver plating, it is braided. In other words, the features that are said to make a cable sound nasty are avoided. Insulation is polyethylene. It cured the incredible harshness in my system, it was a transformation far greater than going to a double priced amp, in this department.
You absolutely want to use it from amp to speakers too.
I'd be stunned if it didn't at least go some way to achieving your stated goals, really stunned!

English only please. Rules.
I need 2 tweeter speakers for B&W P-4/zz03123/Who can I omóc in the topic
This is also a 15 year old thread and looks to be unrelated to your request.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- B&W CDM 1 SE - inside cables replacement