Despite all those unrealistic marketing claims, all 6x9" speakers are usually rated in the 20W to 80W rms range in terms of thermal limitations due to voice coil size and heat exchange capabilities. Higher thermal power ratings are just not practical due to size and moving mass constraints.
However, most of the electrical power applied to any direct radiating speaker (not horn-loaded or in a band-pass enclosure) is wasted as heat and as mechanical energy. Only less than 1% of the electrical power is usually radiated as sound power, and this number is different for each speaker. This efficiency figure is usually expressed in "dB/W" units instead of a percentage. 112dB/W corresponds to a 100% efficiency, and the percentage gets halved each time 3 dB are discounted (so 109dB/W is 50%, 106dB/W is 25%, 103dB/W is 12.5%, 100dB/W is 6.25%, 97dB/W is 3.12%, 94dB/W is 1.6%, 91dB is 0.8%, 88dB is 0.4%, 85dB is 0.2%, etc...)
Also, required cone displacement for a given "bass note" is proportional to the square of the frequency (thus a 50Hz note requires *four* times more displacement than a 100hz note at the same volume), so at low frequencies it is the maximum allowed cone displacement what limits how loud the speaker can sound before damage or distortion arises, and not the power rating.
Things are even funnier because cone excursion for a given low frequency "note" and volume is also strongly dependent on the type and size of the enclosure employed, and on the placement of that enclosure within the room, the cabin of the car, or whatever place else (it's determined by surrounding geometry, being the lowest cone displacement achieved in corners and the highest in free space).
This, together with the efficiency figures, yields power ratings quite *useless* in determining how loud a speaker can sound.
Speaker design is much much more than a matter of claimed power ratings and frequency ranges. Indeed there is a whole lot of stuff about speaker design waiting to be learnt by anybody interested.
However, most of the electrical power applied to any direct radiating speaker (not horn-loaded or in a band-pass enclosure) is wasted as heat and as mechanical energy. Only less than 1% of the electrical power is usually radiated as sound power, and this number is different for each speaker. This efficiency figure is usually expressed in "dB/W" units instead of a percentage. 112dB/W corresponds to a 100% efficiency, and the percentage gets halved each time 3 dB are discounted (so 109dB/W is 50%, 106dB/W is 25%, 103dB/W is 12.5%, 100dB/W is 6.25%, 97dB/W is 3.12%, 94dB/W is 1.6%, 91dB is 0.8%, 88dB is 0.4%, 85dB is 0.2%, etc...)
Also, required cone displacement for a given "bass note" is proportional to the square of the frequency (thus a 50Hz note requires *four* times more displacement than a 100hz note at the same volume), so at low frequencies it is the maximum allowed cone displacement what limits how loud the speaker can sound before damage or distortion arises, and not the power rating.
Things are even funnier because cone excursion for a given low frequency "note" and volume is also strongly dependent on the type and size of the enclosure employed, and on the placement of that enclosure within the room, the cabin of the car, or whatever place else (it's determined by surrounding geometry, being the lowest cone displacement achieved in corners and the highest in free space).
This, together with the efficiency figures, yields power ratings quite *useless* in determining how loud a speaker can sound.
Speaker design is much much more than a matter of claimed power ratings and frequency ranges. Indeed there is a whole lot of stuff about speaker design waiting to be learnt by anybody interested.
static jeep,
I know this is a little off topic but do you own a jeep?
If you do what kind?
I have a 1983 cj-7 its painted bright Orange with 4 kc lights on top and 33 inch tires.
I know this is a little off topic but do you own a jeep?
If you do what kind?
I have a 1983 cj-7 its painted bright Orange with 4 kc lights on top and 33 inch tires.
yes i do own a jeep i own a 95 zj.. mostly stock.. the tranny is messed up.. i am selling it.. if you are intersted hit me up at static-xx@comcast.net.. here are some pictures http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1179127/1
You guys are giving Mr. static way too much serious, accurate information.
He uses "lol" as punctuation. He thinks he will have an 800W Alpine amp. They don't make a 4x200W amp. As you guys have rightly pointed out - there is no door speaker that can handle 200W. Maybe if crossed over at 200hz.
The guy asked if he had a Jeep - Static has a Jeep GRAND CHEROKEE, which is not what most people think of as a Jeep. A CJ-7 is a Jeep.
lol is what I'm doing.
He uses "lol" as punctuation. He thinks he will have an 800W Alpine amp. They don't make a 4x200W amp. As you guys have rightly pointed out - there is no door speaker that can handle 200W. Maybe if crossed over at 200hz.
The guy asked if he had a Jeep - Static has a Jeep GRAND CHEROKEE, which is not what most people think of as a Jeep. A CJ-7 is a Jeep.
lol is what I'm doing.
I got 3 words for staticjeep
1. Pyramid
2. Pyramid
3. Pyramid.
What about the GTI? That is a cool car. I like the older type 1 and 2s.
1. Pyramid
2. Pyramid
3. Pyramid.
What about the GTI? That is a cool car. I like the older type 1 and 2s.
i agree with the 800 watt pyramid sugg, only if 200 watt coaxes were purchased ,super loud and super dope
for 6" (7" really) look at Dynaudio, Scan-speak, or Focal....some of them can take serious punishment...Scan-speak for examply has tweeters with a 225 RMS continuous power rating...and some of the Dynaudio drivers were ratedfor 1000 watt bursts and stable.
the pyramid amps are too powerful for those speakers ,but i wonder what 225 cont. into a ss tweeter sounds like ? j-k
- Status
- Not open for further replies.