have a question about the FE126 Austin. In the second to last page of the pdf it shows a version with the bass deflector monted on the bottom (deflecting torward the floor rather than the wall). Is this still a viable option? I really like the aesthetics of that particular design.
It works, but not as well as a corner loading. When the vertical rear deflector is set in a corner (may be too much for the A126) the deflector forms an extension of the mouth with the walls forming the final stage of expansion. This was designed for the A166 to have the horn action blend in close to the TL action which IMO is closer to a true horn but without the huge mouth as the walls are part of the mouth. This application has been around for many many years.
It would work well with the A126 as long as it was not corner loaded.Aesthetics? looks are at the bottom of my list.
ron
All i have ever used to round a turn was floor panels that have an adhesive back , some corner trim pieces for support and glue/stapel it to the turn. Making a smooth radius is not difficult. I even put half rounds on the ends of the panels.
It works, but not as well as a corner loading. When the vertical rear deflector is set in a corner (may be too much for the A126) the deflector forms an extension of the mouth with the walls forming the final stage of expansion. This was designed for the A166 to have the horn action blend in close to the TL action which IMO is closer to a true horn but without the huge mouth as the walls are part of the mouth. This application has been around for many many years.
It would work well with the A126 as long as it was not corner loaded.Aesthetics? looks are at the bottom of my list.
ron
All i have ever used to round a turn was floor panels that have an adhesive back , some corner trim pieces for support and glue/stapel it to the turn. Making a smooth radius is not difficult. I even put half rounds on the ends of the panels.
I would imagine it conforms to a 48" hight. I'm curious.
There is a reason, you can use the 4x8' panel with less loss of material and the height of the driver C/L balances the butt in the chair/standing up response to an equal value (as long as you are not a pro BB player, but short like me).
ron
There is a reason, you can use the 4x8' panel with less loss of material and the height of the driver C/L balances the butt in the chair/standing up response to an equal value (as long as you are not a pro BB player, but short like me).
ron
correcting corrections ,166A
I should say, if you take the x,y co-ordinants (x5.7, y42.81), the corner point of the little horizontal ceiling of the second turn and subtract 4.47" from it , you get the top of the divider board at 38.35"-.35-.7=37.30" ( my earlier number was 37.25")
Bob
I should say, if you take the x,y co-ordinants (x5.7, y42.81), the corner point of the little horizontal ceiling of the second turn and subtract 4.47" from it , you get the top of the divider board at 38.35"-.35-.7=37.30" ( my earlier number was 37.25")
Bob
ronc said:
Does the above apply to a Dallas II ? I'm planing on building a pair, what are your recommendations, with of without the smooth bends?
I would make the bends out of epoxy
, would that bring sonic improvements?Does the above apply to a Dallas II ? I'm planing on building a pair, what are your recommendations, with of without the smooth bends?
I would make the bends out of epoxy, would that bring sonic improvements?
With smooth bends it will always perform better. Simply look at it from a hydrodynamics POV.
I would make the bends out of epoxy, would that bring sonic improvements
Why go to the trouble. All i ever used was a flexible piece of floor tile that was stapled in and silicone for the voids. Its simple ,easy and cheap.
ron
I would make the bends out of epoxy, would that bring sonic improvements?
With smooth bends it will always perform better. Simply look at it from a hydrodynamics POV.
I would make the bends out of epoxy, would that bring sonic improvements
Why go to the trouble. All i ever used was a flexible piece of floor tile that was stapled in and silicone for the voids. Its simple ,easy and cheap.
ron
the bends from flexible floor tile
RON,
Where were you when I was pushing that big boulder of epoxy up the hill?
Bob
RON,
Where were you when I was pushing that big boulder of epoxy up the hill?
Bob
Where were you when I was pushing that big boulder of epoxy up the hill?
Bob
Nobody ever asked! The filler of silicone has advantages. Its easy and cheap(like me). The floor tile i got from home depot as samples. I always look for the simple inexpensive answer in anything be it industry or DIY.
ron
(the hardest thing you can do is to make something simple)
Bob
Nobody ever asked! The filler of silicone has advantages. Its easy and cheap(like me). The floor tile i got from home depot as samples. I always look for the simple inexpensive answer in anything be it industry or DIY.
ron
(the hardest thing you can do is to make something simple)
A166 curves
Good idea with floor tile, I was getting bogged down with how to round them out CNC ect..I finally decided to just build it like the plans and round them when I get them built with one side off. I may use tile as a dam and fill with some sort of epoxy sand concoction. I know is probably splitting hairs but it would appear the radius of the curve would change on the left and right side of each baffle.
Good idea with floor tile, I was getting bogged down with how to round them out CNC ect..I finally decided to just build it like the plans and round them when I get them built with one side off. I may use tile as a dam and fill with some sort of epoxy sand concoction. I know is probably splitting hairs but it would appear the radius of the curve would change on the left and right side of each baffle.
curved bends
Bill,
It is important to make the left side, the mirror image of the right. It is an expanding curve..you may have already figured out..
Also, If you get your wood right, the flexible tile should fit in place and be on the mark... Watch the 2nd turn, going from 4.05" to 4.46" that 45 degree mark should be about 4.20" and you will need to do something with the wood dimension to get that result. If you use a 1/2" piece of plywood there, you could use epoxy in the valley just to brace it a bit.
Bob
Bill,
It is important to make the left side, the mirror image of the right. It is an expanding curve..you may have already figured out..
Also, If you get your wood right, the flexible tile should fit in place and be on the mark... Watch the 2nd turn, going from 4.05" to 4.46" that 45 degree mark should be about 4.20" and you will need to do something with the wood dimension to get that result. If you use a 1/2" piece of plywood there, you could use epoxy in the valley just to brace it a bit.
Bob
i found a supplier of curved plywood...wich would mkae the curves a bit easier perhaps. its KPI inc. distributed through 2 houses. once in CA one in NY.
NY:
http://www.robertsplywood.com/stage/rtb1481/curv_ply.htm
click on the stock list. they have the prices for all the wood you might need.
CA:
http://www.aitwood.com/
go to millwork components. they make drum shells too.
they're both about the same prices.
NY:
http://www.robertsplywood.com/stage/rtb1481/curv_ply.htm
click on the stock list. they have the prices for all the wood you might need.
CA:
http://www.aitwood.com/
go to millwork components. they make drum shells too.
they're both about the same prices.
Bondo (plaastic filler)
Don't know if this will be any help now, but plastic filler (Bondo is a brand name) can often be had fairly cheap by the gallon at auto paint stores and sometimes at big box hardware stores. Piano refinishers use gobs of it; it works really well on wood. The warning to build up no more than a 1/4" is for two reasons. First, it is usually used on the flexible panels of cars, where it needs to be somewhat flexible, so it won't separate from the panel. Over a 1/4", and it becomes too stiff to move with the panel. This is not a problem you will have on any wood cabinets. Second, Bondo cures by a heat reaction inside the filler, the cream hardener reacting with another chemical, called an accelerator, already mixed in the Bondo. If you mix up too thick a mass, the heat can't dissipate quickly enough, and the Bondo will overheat and crack. You can get around this by using only half as much hardener, or by building up the Bondo in layers. To build up a layer, wait only until each preceding layer has just begun to harden. If you wait much longer, the new layer won't adhere to the old and you will have to sand the preceding layer and get a mechanical bond. I've used plastic filler for over thirty years in refinishing, and have no problems with it when properly applied. Thirty-year-old repairs are still out there and doing fine, and some of the repairs had to be quite thick. You could also probably save some cash by making an aggregate of Bondo and some clean pebbles or something like that, which would also reduce the heat. Another thing; rough up the area where you want it to stick, or drive in a couple of staples or brads for it to get a purchase on.
Good luck
Don't know if this will be any help now, but plastic filler (Bondo is a brand name) can often be had fairly cheap by the gallon at auto paint stores and sometimes at big box hardware stores. Piano refinishers use gobs of it; it works really well on wood. The warning to build up no more than a 1/4" is for two reasons. First, it is usually used on the flexible panels of cars, where it needs to be somewhat flexible, so it won't separate from the panel. Over a 1/4", and it becomes too stiff to move with the panel. This is not a problem you will have on any wood cabinets. Second, Bondo cures by a heat reaction inside the filler, the cream hardener reacting with another chemical, called an accelerator, already mixed in the Bondo. If you mix up too thick a mass, the heat can't dissipate quickly enough, and the Bondo will overheat and crack. You can get around this by using only half as much hardener, or by building up the Bondo in layers. To build up a layer, wait only until each preceding layer has just begun to harden. If you wait much longer, the new layer won't adhere to the old and you will have to sand the preceding layer and get a mechanical bond. I've used plastic filler for over thirty years in refinishing, and have no problems with it when properly applied. Thirty-year-old repairs are still out there and doing fine, and some of the repairs had to be quite thick. You could also probably save some cash by making an aggregate of Bondo and some clean pebbles or something like that, which would also reduce the heat. Another thing; rough up the area where you want it to stick, or drive in a couple of staples or brads for it to get a purchase on.
Good luck
Super baffle mod
I have most of the wood cut, and will start assembling soon. I bought a T90 tweeter to go with it . I hope it will not alter the effect of the baffle to much if I cut out a half round on top to place the tweeter as close as I can to the main driver. I will be using biscuits to join the walls, I will be using epoxy glue so I have a little more working time fussing with lining them up. I was able to buy the epoxy in pint containers from a construction outlet (it is quite expensive from hardware or hobby shops). So I will mix the leftover with sand to form curves inside.
I have most of the wood cut, and will start assembling soon. I bought a T90 tweeter to go with it . I hope it will not alter the effect of the baffle to much if I cut out a half round on top to place the tweeter as close as I can to the main driver. I will be using biscuits to join the walls, I will be using epoxy glue so I have a little more working time fussing with lining them up. I was able to buy the epoxy in pint containers from a construction outlet (it is quite expensive from hardware or hobby shops). So I will mix the leftover with sand to form curves inside.
A sand/epoxy misture should work well, but I would mix up a marble size lump of it first in the proportions you intend to use to ensure that it will cure properly. Two-part epoxy is a thermoset substance and needs enough heat to set up correctly, and you also need to make sure there is nothing in the sand that will interfere with the chemical reaction that causes the heat. There should be no problems. but test first: you don't want to find out, after you have committed some expensive epoxy to the project, that the mixture won't cure properly. The thicker areas of the mix should build up plenty of heat, but where you are tapering into the curved edge may not. If you find this happening, you can use a hair dryer on high for a short time to help things a bit. Good idea on the mixture though. The epoxy will have really good adhesion.
Test first!
Test first!
Re: Super baffle mod
Can't see an issue with using the T90, it's something that I intend to add at some point. I also used biscuits to join the walls, as you can see in this picture:
wirewiggler said:
Can't see an issue with using the T90, it's something that I intend to add at some point. I also used biscuits to join the walls, as you can see in this picture:
Nice joints, I had bought a Bosh compound miter saw a year back this is the first opportunity to really put it to test. Keep me posted on your progress.
wirewiggler said:
Well, I finished up awhile ago... these are just pictures I've kept of the process.
DaveCan said:
I absolutely love them. My favorite aspect of the Austins is the excellent bass and midrange, and although it could possibly use a T90 for some high end detail, they are perfect for what I use them for (enjoying music).
Excellent Cwujek😎 It's hard to go wrong using one of Ron's horn designs... Soon there will be a A166 using the Decware modded 166 driver, looking forward to that review too.. Dave🙂
What amp are you driving them with? I have JE labs 300b set amp and a pair of Pass F4 I plan to play with should be interesting solid vs tube. Ant Pics of final speakers?
Bill
Bill
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