Did the outputs blow all at once with no warning?
How hard were you driving it when they blew?
Was it running hot or drawing excessive current at idle?
The inductors used to be a problem in this type of amp but it looks like these are insulated where the terminal windings meet the rest of the windings.
How hard were you driving it when they blew?
Was it running hot or drawing excessive current at idle?
The inductors used to be a problem in this type of amp but it looks like these are insulated where the terminal windings meet the rest of the windings.
I used 10 ohm 1/8 watt gate resistors for the outputs .
10 ohm is the original value .
All the resistors I replaced with new ones are defective the original ones that were still good I left alone and they all are still good .
Wondering if the gate resistors were bad or not enough wattage ?
Should I bump up the wattage for 1/8 watt to 1/4 watt or it should make a difference
Or I’m wondering if the amp is not liking the drivers I’m using ?
I ordered 2N4403 and 4401 but the markings are different
Instead of saying 2T and 2x they say the following
JC2X and K2T
Could this be an issue or not really
10 ohm is the original value .
All the resistors I replaced with new ones are defective the original ones that were still good I left alone and they all are still good .
Wondering if the gate resistors were bad or not enough wattage ?
Should I bump up the wattage for 1/8 watt to 1/4 watt or it should make a difference
Or I’m wondering if the amp is not liking the drivers I’m using ?
I ordered 2N4403 and 4401 but the markings are different
Instead of saying 2T and 2x they say the following
JC2X and K2T
Could this be an issue or not really
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The prefix is likely unimportant. The resistors should not be an issue... also should not have burned. Generally, when 1 output fails, all of the current passes through that transistor (and/or one other on the opposite 'side') and the amp shuts down. This prevents other outputs from failing and burning their gate resistors.
You're replacing ALL of the outputs at once, correct?
Did you buy the outputs and drivers from a reputable distributor?
Did you find anything shorted to the heatsink?
You're replacing ALL of the outputs at once, correct?
Did you buy the outputs and drivers from a reputable distributor?
Did you find anything shorted to the heatsink?
I'd suggest using a low-voltage power supply setup. Replace all of the components and see if they survive with the lower voltage. Generally, with lower rail voltage, there isn't enough energy to cause any outputs to fail. In your case, I'd strongly recommend using limiters (1157s) in the supply output as well.
If you don't have a split supply that you can use, you can do this:
4000.1
If you don't have a split supply that you can use, you can do this:
4000.1
Ok I’m gonna our new parts in it again I just got them today .
To discharge the rail caps do o just take a automotive bulb and hook a positive and negative wire to the bulb and then put the other end of the wire to the positive and negative of the cap ?
Or what is the best and safest way to discharge them
To discharge the rail caps do o just take a automotive bulb and hook a positive and negative wire to the bulb and then put the other end of the wire to the positive and negative of the cap ?
Or what is the best and safest way to discharge them
You can't use a 12v bulb. It will generally blow them due to high voltage. Use a 120v incandescent lamp or a dummy load.
Yes. Just connect whatever you use across the positive, then across the negative rail caps.
You can check them for voltage before discharging them. Some amps discharge quickly. Some hold a charge for weeks.
Yes. Just connect whatever you use across the positive, then across the negative rail caps.
You can check them for voltage before discharging them. Some amps discharge quickly. Some hold a charge for weeks.
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