Schottky diodes are not a problem as long as they can take the voltage. For a long time they were only made for relativly low voltage but lately they have been able to produce them for higher voltages.
If they are 30 volt diodes, that would certainly explain why they would fail instantly.
If they are 30 volt diodes, that would certainly explain why they would fail instantly.
I will cross the specs of the one you recommended with the ones I used. I could have sworn their operating voltages were more than sufficient. Checking now
I do believe they are rated at 30V. I see in the ebay auction they are listed as "SR1603A or NTE6244" 200V 16A, but I don't think SR1603A and NTE6244 are even the same.
I can't find any references for SR1603A, but I can find SR1602D, SR1604D, and SR1606D which are 20V, 40V, and 60V respectively; all at 16A. That would lead me to believe the "3" suffix on your diodes means 30V.😱
Here is an auction for the ones Perry suggested.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/15-MUR1620CT-8A...ryZ73142QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
I can't find any references for SR1603A, but I can find SR1602D, SR1604D, and SR1606D which are 20V, 40V, and 60V respectively; all at 16A. That would lead me to believe the "3" suffix on your diodes means 30V.😱
Here is an auction for the ones Perry suggested.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/15-MUR1620CT-8A...ryZ73142QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
This is the information I found yesterday for the 1603:
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/semiconductors/specsheet.php?specsheet=1974645
The first time I looked for a datasheet, I found the same eBay auction you did that stated that the 1603s were 200v.
He needs the negative rectifiers, not the positive rectifiers. The negative rectifiers have an 'R' suffix. mur1620ctR.
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/semiconductors/specsheet.php?specsheet=1974645
The first time I looked for a datasheet, I found the same eBay auction you did that stated that the 1603s were 200v.
He needs the negative rectifiers, not the positive rectifiers. The negative rectifiers have an 'R' suffix. mur1620ctR.
Cool, thanks guys for the major help. The way I decided to buy the first ebay ones (1603's) was by the specs he had listed and I compared them to the specs for the originals that I found on some obscure cross website, they appeared to be the same. Yeah, the 03 would seem to indicate 30 volts. Like you said A1, WOW.... oops😱 . I've got some of the mur's on the way from mouser, not too expensive. I will be trying them in a few days when they come in. I'll be sure to post the results. I'm crossing my fingers this is the last issue.
Thanks so much guys
Woohooo! Its up and running! Apparently the rectifiers I bought on ebay were rated too low, didn't see that coming. I haven't been able to put a good load on it because my heavy duty power supply puts out like 16v and I'm afraid to fry the amp. But I have run both channels and also bridged it (up to the level my small power supply can handle) and it sounds fine. I will have to watch the guy install it in his car and be sure he doesn't bridge it lower than 4 ohms.. that surely is what caused it to die in the first place. Thanks so much for all the help guys, I can finally rid myself of this bulky pos, haha.😀
Woohooo! Its up and running! Apparently the rectifiers I bought on ebay were rated too low, didn't see that coming. I haven't been able to put a good load on it because my heavy duty power supply puts out like 16v and I'm afraid to fry the amp. But I have run both channels and also bridged it (up to the level my small power supply can handle) and it sounds fine. I will have to watch the guy install it in his car and be sure he doesn't bridge it lower than 4 ohms.. that surely is what caused it to die in the first place. Thanks so much for all the help guys, I can finally rid myself of this bulky pos, haha.😀
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