I have an Audiobahn 2200HCT with no output transistors in the amp. I have been told that this amp had TIP35&36C's which a have here. Only problem is I'm not sure which bank had what type... can someone please lmk which ones go where?
Thanks!
Thanks!
If you look at the data sheet for the Trans. One is a PNP and the other, a NPN. I think the NPN goes on the side with the + rail voltage and of coarse PNP goes on the - rail. The TIP35 is an NPN, TIP36 PNP. You can get data sheets from mouser.😎 OH, you can find the NEG rail by the filter caps, they are marked with a - line usually. Or you can power it up and mesure the DC Voltage on them.
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DOH! lol, ya I guess I could just power it up... For some reason I was thinking that these amps had mixed banks. (ie. both 35 & 36 on one side) but no... in looking at the traces, they appear to be all PNP one side and NPN on the other but I'll still just power it up and check the pads to be certain. 🙂
Thanks
Thanks
In the 2300hct, some of the amps used TIP35/36 and some used C2384/A1303. The NPN outputs are on the same side as the large NPN driver near the center of the board. Again, this is for the 2300, not the 2200 but I think they're similar.
Oops... my bad, this is a A2300HCT. Any chances you have a schematics for this amp Perry or anyone? 🙂
I have the same amp sitting here right now ..
Let me know if you need any info on it before i give it back
Let me know if you need any info on it before i give it back
I don't have a diagram but it's a simple generic amp. What problem do you have that requires a diagram?
None really, yet, that I know of, lol... Just nice to collect them. I took many pics and notes to add to my folder.
Question... should this bracket be soldered to the rail connecting all the collectors (center leg)? It is on one side of the amp, but the other side is loose, and no solder bridge.
Question... should this bracket be soldered to the rail connecting all the collectors (center leg)? It is on one side of the amp, but the other side is loose, and no solder bridge.
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It appears to have light passing through the board all around it so I wouldn't expect there to be an electrical connection at that point. It appears to only be a bracket for the display board. There are some audiobahn amps that use these for both a fan/display bracket and a bussbar so you have to look at each one carefully.
SO! I put it all back together. It played fine on the bench for over an hour @ 4ohms on music medium level.
I then installed it into my car on a 2ohm load (this is a 1 ohm stable amp) and went for a drive. It played fine for 10 minutes or so, then I turned it up and it was fine for a couple songs. Then the output just stopped.
I immediately pulled over and checked fuses, hot, etc. No fuses are blown, its not drawing excessive current, it is powered on and its still cold.
In bridged configuration I have no output. The power meters show nothing. If I connect the 2 ohm load to either individual channel I do get output but its considerably lower, almost muted. The power meter shows up and down to -30 depending on which channel the load is connected to. If I try to bridge it has no output.
Not sure if its worth mentioning but if I unplug and replug the RCAs I get a loud connection thump, way louder than the current sound output. Its closer to the level my subs should play.
Im lost...
I then installed it into my car on a 2ohm load (this is a 1 ohm stable amp) and went for a drive. It played fine for 10 minutes or so, then I turned it up and it was fine for a couple songs. Then the output just stopped.
I immediately pulled over and checked fuses, hot, etc. No fuses are blown, its not drawing excessive current, it is powered on and its still cold.
In bridged configuration I have no output. The power meters show nothing. If I connect the 2 ohm load to either individual channel I do get output but its considerably lower, almost muted. The power meter shows up and down to -30 depending on which channel the load is connected to. If I try to bridge it has no output.
Not sure if its worth mentioning but if I unplug and replug the RCAs I get a loud connection thump, way louder than the current sound output. Its closer to the level my subs should play.
Im lost...
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Are you sure that it's not a problem with the signal source or the shield ground?
Have you tried operating all pots and switches through their entire range to see if it makes a difference?
Have you tried operating all pots and switches through their entire range to see if it makes a difference?
I did switch the RCAs from sub level to rear with no change. The amp is set to full range and controlled by my Alpine imprint processor. Ill try to switch to high pass or low pass and see if anything changes.
I have another deck I can use to send signal and see if its the HU or Imprint.
I have another deck I can use to send signal and see if its the HU or Imprint.
The problem appears to be I have no -15v to the audio section. Checked the TIP42C and it has -22.7ish volts on all 3 legs. The transistor doesnt appear to be shorted and passed the diode check as well however I did not remove it from the board.
The zenner diode for that circuit appears to be the problem. Ive never ordered a zenner before. Which one do I need to buy. 😕
Ive attached a pic of the pos side zenner, when I went to cut one leg of the bad zenner it broke in the center and is almost impossible to read the small info even with a magnifying glass.
Is there anything else I should check that might cause this to happen. The resistor value is good.
Hopefully this will fix my issue. 🙂
The zenner diode for that circuit appears to be the problem. Ive never ordered a zenner before. Which one do I need to buy. 😕
Ive attached a pic of the pos side zenner, when I went to cut one leg of the bad zenner it broke in the center and is almost impossible to read the small info even with a magnifying glass.
Is there anything else I should check that might cause this to happen. The resistor value is good.
Hopefully this will fix my issue. 🙂
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The Zener appears to be a 1W device. It's likely a 16v Zener. A 1N4745 should be a good replacement.
If the Zener opened and caused +15v and -22v to be driven into the op-amps, you should order several replacement op-amps as well. The high voltage may have damaged them.
If the Zener opened and caused +15v and -22v to be driven into the op-amps, you should order several replacement op-amps as well. The high voltage may have damaged them.
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